Were the fuse locations there or you added them? How hard was it to swap the fuse box?
I picked up the 300TDI blade fuse box from a local LR restoration shop - came with the new mounting bracket (and some of the loom).
My original glass fuse box had 2 rows of 6, plus the rear defog/wiper fuses. I dont have rear wiper (previous owner replaced door, didnt put back - so I used 1-12 on the new box + #17 for the rear defog.
For the existing wiring (1-12,17) I simply crimped new blade ends, using the factory wires. For 13-16 & 18, 19 (20 is still free) I ran new 14AWG GXL wires from starter terminal (essentially 8AWG) to circuit breakers, then through the firewall - Brown to fuse box for "always on" fuses, then purple to center console devices. For the "ACC- On", I ran the brown to 2 new relays (splitting the load) (left of blue wires), triggered by existing accessory wire, these were then white to the fuse box, then green (the wires that you see on the right side) to my center console. Working to match LR wiring color codes.
I wanted to replace all factory wiring with new, especially as there are many unused wires in the loom - but that was quite a spaghetti mess. Perhaps as I install the R2.8, I may work on segments at a time.
Difficulty, not too bad... the most time consuming part - I had to 'rework' the 1/4" locking spade connectors to fit into the fuse block - essentially, rolling the ends a bit more to slide into the block - easy but time consuming. I simply did 1 fuse at a time. Planning out what I wanted in my center console was the most time consuming. Fuse block took about 2-3hrs. Running the new 14AWG and wiring about 4hrs total.
I like that the fuse box looks factory, I have more fuse locations, I removed all the inline fuses for each device that were always hidden behind other wires.