What have you done to your DEFENDER today?

supertreeman

Well-known member
After struggling with door alignment for an eternity, finally starting to get it back together again. And yes, I’m very regretful of using so many rivets in the rear fender. Hoping they disappear after it’s all painted Alpine White.
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jymmiejamz

Founding Member
Callsign: KN4JHI
Why is that? Do you have to modify your body to get it to align? I’ve heard other people recommend the same but never understood the reasoning.
Zack summed it up pretty well, haha. Yeah, nothing fits right in my experience. Typically there is some grinding, bending, and massaging required to get everything to line up well and have the doors shut properly. You can bolt it all together and it will work, but if you want it to be right it takes a lot of time.

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supertreeman

Well-known member
Zack summed it up pretty well, haha. Yeah, nothing fits right in my experience. Typically there is some grinding, bending, and massaging required to get everything to line up well and have the doors shut properly. You can bolt it all together and it will work, but if you want it to be right it takes a lot of time.

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Agreed! In my case nothing fit right. Had I done this after paint it would have been a disaster.
 

SaintPanzer

Well-known member
Completed re-upholstering the seats with new foam. Also added heated seat pads... just need to figure out where to put the switches and how to tap in to the ignition so the seats are off if the ignition is off. Any suggestions?
 

jymmiejamz

Founding Member
Callsign: KN4JHI
I may rebuild the rear shaft on my 110, or just order a new one and keep the old one to rebuild as a spare.
The splines on mine were worn which is why I replaced the complete shaft, otherwise I would have just bought genuine u joints and had the driveshaft shop rebuild it.
 

Ephry73

Well-known member
Makes sense. I also need to get a new protective sleeve for the rear shaft. It’s nonexistent.

E
The splines on mine were worn which is why I replaced the complete shaft, otherwise I would have just bought genuine u joints and had the driveshaft shop rebuild it.
 

Ozzie

Well-known member
Finished the switch wiring on the Mud Pod with the Face Vents, Installed a new Dip/Horn/turn signal assembly and installed the Puma Xs Leather Steering wheel. 36 spline.

Almost done with the re wire too.
 

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SaintPanzer

Well-known member
Thanks. Relays I have. I'm trying to figure out where I should put the switches (holes in the center cubby are looking good, but so is the space over the radio), and which wires I need to pull from. I have a fuse box under the cubby, but that goes straight into the battery, and is not switched with the ignition. I don't like tapping into existing wires, but may have to... If I go over the radio, the rear wiper switch is a switched connection, as is the headlamp adjuster, and I think the cigar lighter. But as I said, I'm not sure I want to "tap in".
Simple relay will work
 

LazyRabbit

Well-known member
Completed re-upholstering the seats with new foam. Also added heated seat pads... just need to figure out where to put the switches and how to tap in to the ignition so the seats are off if the ignition is off. Any suggestions?
green wire in dash or radio area that only get power when key is turned.
 

LazyRabbit

Well-known member
Thanks. Relays I have. I'm trying to figure out where I should put the switches (holes in the center cubby are looking good, but so is the space over the radio), and which wires I need to pull from. I have a fuse box under the cubby, but that goes straight into the battery, and is not switched with the ignition. I don't like tapping into existing wires, but may have to... If I go over the radio, the rear wiper switch is a switched connection, as is the headlamp adjuster, and I think the cigar lighter. But as I said, I'm not sure I want to "tap in".
i used a MUD uk bezel where the clock goes and installed two rocker switches
 
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