LT230 Rebuild or Replace

Classic4X4

Classic4X4

Well-known member
Hello All,

A while ago I went through my drivetrain in an attempt to eliminate a "clunk" - after a great deal of help from all the knowledge here, I replaced the A frame ball joint, UJ's etc and it improved greatly but alas still there and annoying

If I lock the differential its virtually non-existent so seems to be the center diff.

I currently have the original 1986 1.6 ratio T-Case - Its very torquey and great off road but maxes out at 55mph - with a 200tdi w/300tdi turbo its a bit anti-climactic

My question is - is it worth rebuilding the early '86 T-case or should I be replacing it with a modern unit (cross drilled etc)

I'd consider myself well versed mechanically - I've pulled TDI's and replaced clutches but never attempted a T-Case - I've read loads of threads regarding getting around special tools etc but still a bit hesitant as to whether or not its worth it.

Alternatively, I have been considering an Ashcroft unit with their various upgrades.

If I go for the swap, I'd consider a different gearing to make the truck more highway friendly - with 265/75 tires I worry about getting going in 1st though.

Any advice on

1 gearing,

2, rebuild or replace,

3, cost to have someone else rebuild as opposed to swapping in a new unit myself?

Thanks so much for the advice!

- and a pic because there's a special place in hell for those who post threads without 'em.
defender photo.jpg
 
Last edited:
Napalm00

Napalm00

Technical Excellence Contributor
Even on a freshly rebuilt unit you're going to have slop when not locked.

If you've got the money save yourself the trouble and just buy at 1.4 that is sleeved from Ashcroft. If you drive in snow or sand often up for the ATB center.
 
Classic4X4

Classic4X4

Well-known member
Thank you both - I think headache to money ratio here is hinting at an ashcroft 1.4 with the sleeved (I'm on sand and ice alot)
 
Napalm00

Napalm00

Technical Excellence Contributor
sleeved no matter what. the ATB will tighten up the box and eliminate the dished washers in the open center. It will make the center act like a limited slip when not locked and locked fully when locked. nice option for snow/ice/sand, not cheap tho $$$
 
Classic4X4

Classic4X4

Well-known member
Also considering popping in a new Trans from Ashcroft - I can save on shipping if I have them sent together.

Any recommendation on LT77 vs R380 (stumpy direct-fit)?

I drove a 95 NAS D90 for years with the R380 but I've somewhat forgotten how it compared (just remember being happier on the highway) but that was also with the Rover V8 -

Thanks guys
 
Last edited:
Napalm00

Napalm00

Technical Excellence Contributor
HD stumpy will future proof you a little bit, didnt like the quality i got from them. My next purchase will most likely go to winchestergears instead
 
Classic4X4

Classic4X4

Well-known member
Was looking at winchester as well - what concerns did you have w/ quality?

Wish there was someone stateside who supplies these w/ all the upgrades
 
Napalm00

Napalm00

Technical Excellence Contributor
The shift quality in my HDR380 leaves a lot to be desired. It's clunky even after being broken in.

LT230 I received from them had a cracked output housing and had low quality nbr seals installed. Even after sending this information to them they couldn't do anything for me.

I'll be going with Winchester next time. Just from their Instagram posts a quality and attention to detail seems better. You can also get higher quality components from them if you want something really exotic or heavy duty
 
donb

donb

Well-known member
Napalm00 said:
The shift quality in my HDR380 leaves a lot to be desired. It's clunky even after being broken in.

LT230 I received from them had a cracked output housing and had low quality nbr seals installed. Even after sending this information to them they couldn't do anything for me.

I'll be going with Winchester next time. Just from their Instagram posts a quality and attention to detail seems better. You can also get higher quality components from them if you want something really exotic or heavy duty
Click to expand...

Good to know I'm not the only one with a clunky HDR380 from Ashcroft. I only have a few miles on mine after the R2.8 install and I have to say I wasn't blown away. Maybe it will get better as it breaks in.

I'm guessing you have tried different fluids in it?
 
Napalm00

Napalm00

Technical Excellence Contributor
Yea tried , redline mtl, Ford mtf it's speecced for and synchomesh. Redline mtl has been the best

I'll also say that the first fluid change after only maybe 50 mi was absolutely filthy. It's like they assembled the transmission in a coal mine.
 
Last edited:
supertreeman

supertreeman

Well-known member
Classic4X4 said:
Hello All,

A while ago I went through my drivetrain in an attempt to eliminate a "clunk" - after a great deal of help from all the knowledge here, I replaced the A frame ball joint, UJ's etc and it improved greatly but alas still there and annoying

If I lock the differential its virtually non-existent so seems to be the center diff.

I currently have the original 1986 1.6 ratio T-Case - Its very torquey and great off road but maxes out at 55mph - with a 200tdi w/300tdi turbo its a bit anti-climactic

My question is - is it worth rebuilding the early '86 T-case or should I be replacing it with a modern unit (cross drilled etc)

I'd consider myself well versed mechanically - I've pulled TDI's and replaced clutches but never attempted a T-Case - I've read loads of threads regarding getting around special tools etc but still a bit hesitant as to whether or not its worth it.

Alternatively, I have been considering an Ashcroft unit with their various upgrades.

If I go for the swap, I'd consider a different gearing to make the truck more highway friendly - with 265/75 tires I worry about getting going in 1st though.

Any advice on

1 gearing,

2, rebuild or replace,

3, cost to have someone else rebuild as opposed to swapping in a new unit myself?

Thanks so much for the advice!

- and a pic because there's a special place in hell for those who post threads without 'em. View attachment 23134
Click to expand...
Wow! Thats a beautiful 90!!
 
Classic4X4

Classic4X4

Well-known member
I did some further research using the serial numbers on my T-Case and Transmission

My LT230 is a 22D which Ashcroft shows as being a 1.4.... what.... I'm baffled as the truck cant comfortably cruise over 60mph on the highway. Any faster and the boost is over 1K and EGT starts to climb too high.

I've read so many threads with people saying their 1.4 T-Case w/ 200TDI is capable of cruising at 70+ - I have no idea what I'm missing here

Also reached out to Winchester gears to see if they will ship to the US, their website order form currently shows "does not ship to your location"

Is the GBR you're referencing in Salt Lake?

Thanks guys
 
Last edited:
Napalm00

Napalm00

Technical Excellence Contributor
Classic4X4 said:
I did some further research using the serial numbers on my T-Case and Transmission

My LT230 is a 22D which Ashcroft shows as being a 1.4.... what.... I'm baffled as the truck cant comfortably cruise over 60mph on the highway. Any faster and the boost is over 1K and EGT starts to climb too high.

I've read so many threads with people saying their 1.4 T-Case w/ 200TDI is capable of cruising at 70+ - I have no idea what I'm missing here

Also reached out to Winchester gears to see if they will ship to the US, their website order form currently shows "does not ship to your location"

Is the GBR you're referencing in Salt Lake?

Thanks guys
Click to expand...
It's all in the tuning. You're talking like a 1 mm difference in depth of a screw can change drivability significantly.

What's your RPM at 60 mph?
 
Classic4X4

Classic4X4

Well-known member
Napalm00 said:
It's all in the tuning. You're talking like a 1 mm difference in depth of a screw can change drivability significantly.

What's your RPM at 60 mph?
Click to expand...
Unfortunately I can't take the beast out for a spin as my injection pump has been pi**ing all over the place. That's a whole other issue I'll have to tackle :( - From memory, on flat road going 60 ~2300+ rpm, boost 1.1-1.3

I've been corresponding with Ashcroft and Winchester so still making decisions but I think my plan is as follows - (and of course will take pictures and make updates along the way) - I hate when people don't follow up after getting advice!

R380 Stumpy w/ 1.4 LT230

From bow to stern:

1) Extreme Duty Clutch Assembly from RN (couldn't find any reason not to do this)
-crank rear seal
-pressure plate
-driven plate
-flywheel bush
-attachment bolts
-throw out bearing (short)
-HD Clutch fork (prob Britrest)
- Clutch Fork Pivot

2) Stumpy R380 (Heavy Duty)
- R380 Diff Lock Linkage
- Should I do the taller 5th? (0.732)

3) LT230
- Sleeved casing
- ATB
- 1.4 Ratio

Will probably end up overhauling the parking brake assembly while I'm messing around here

Will be doing all this on my back in the driveway so should be fun!
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top