LT230 Rebuild or Replace

[Napalm00]

Got it - beginning to accept these things just aren't meant to move so quickly.

I can get to 55-60 on the highway, the damn thing just sounds like its on the verge of explosion past 2K rpm and the EGT climbs

I've installed an Alisport high-cap intercooler and VDO EGT and Boost gauges. To get to 55-60 I'm just over 2K rpm and 10+PSI boost.

I never let the EGT exceed 650f (should I?) - if boost is over 10psi the EGT needle climbs, if its under 10, the needle drops

It's never felt to me like I didn't have enough power, but always felt like if I had a 6th gear to shift into I'd be smooth sailing.

I remember reading Adamsanta's 200tdi tuning threads so I'll have to crack into those again

1350f should be your max egt.

You definitely have some tuning issues. As boost increases your EGT should actually decrease if the load is the same. Sounds like you've been giving some incorrect information on maximum temperatures and maximum RPM.

Also sounds like you might need a valve adjustment

 

[jymmiejamz]

Just cruising at 70-75 in my 110 I’m usually around 800F

 

[Napalm00]

Just cruising at 70-75 in my 110 I’m usually around 800F

Yup

Driving videos

Well I normally don't condone the videoing while driving these can be fun. Was 106 degrees outside when I took this. Higher than normal egts but still acceptable for a slight incline.

nas-row.com

This was with my old motor. 680k on block , stock turbo, tuned.

 

[KGH]

Picked up a beater 110 3 door 200 a while back. Stock gearing, drivetrain, 235/85-16. Prev owner had boost controller and boost guage. Pushes 15.5/16 boost at 75-77mph. No EGT. Rollin the dice at full throttle. Will add one on that truck when it gets replacement chassis and bulkhead, hardly drive it.

Trying to pass a semi’s doing 70ish, that wind deflection will slow that 200 down and cannot get around front of semi trucks.

 

[KW1985def110]

Just cruising at 70-75 in my 110 I’m usually around 800F

X2

 

[Classic4X4]

Proper Spill Rail tubing arrived today.

As much as I wanted it, I couldn’t find any of the clear stuff that I was confident would last long. Everything on Amazon was non-branded.

Ended up finding some ULS/Biodiesel safe 4mmID generic spill rail line from the bay for $11. Some nice German made stuff that looks almost identical to the stock material.

Looking at the old line once off, it’s pretty clear both ends failed - this is the newer type flexible hosing and it failed after only 5 years

Comparing new to old it looks like the replacement will do nicely. I measured the length of the original lines (which members have pointed out are notoriously annoying to install as they’re too short) and added about 1/4” when cutting new sections

I have the non-barbed type spill rail fittings so it was relatively easy to remove the old line.

And done - I have the Cummins double sided U-shaped copper washers in the tuffy box on standby.

Quick 15 min job - just some annoying to reach areas on that middle line.

Napalm00 - would have ended up dropping nearly $100 for the kit and ended up with the same bad tubing - thanks so much for your guidance and advice.

Now that we’re back in a drivable state, I got it up to 55/60 and you’re right - I gave inaccurate numbers - apologies for the bad info.

~1750rpm and 10PSI+ boost at 55/60mph

Glad to know I can exceed 650 on the EGT. Sounds like there’s definitely tuning issues based on what you said about EGT dropping as boost increases w/ consistent load.

Rocker cover gasket is due for replacement anyway, so will take a look at/adjust the valves/clearance and see if that helps.

Thanks guys!

 

[Napalm00]

Future reference the urathane fuel line is available at all auto parts and small engine stores as fuel line for small engines , lawnmowers/weed Wackers ext.

Or if you want the good stuff . Parts unlimited

 

[Classic4X4]

Alright! Order officially placed

R380 Stumpy Heavy Duty
LT230 "American Spec" 1.4 (Triple Sleeved with ATB

Will be overhauling the clutch assembly while I'm in there but have 8-10 weeks to decide on which cutch/components to install.

Thanks to everyone for the help thus far.

 

[Napalm00]

Dorman master conversion and your choice of clutch kit. Remember the heaver duty generally the heavier the clutch pedal.

Have the flywheel machined no matter what

Check the rear main and T seals for leaks , if they are leaking , engine should come out for replacement of both.

 

[Ephry73]

OP sent you a PM

E

 

[Classic4X4]

Dorman master conversion and your choice of clutch kit. Remember the heaver duty generally the heavier the clutch pedal.

Have the flywheel machined no matter what

Check the rear main and T seals for leaks , if they are leaking , engine should come out for replacement of both.

E - Replied to your PM!

Just got in touch with a local machine shop that will resurface and found a nice Dorman conversion kit at SDO

RN has two clutch kits I was intrigued by - A "Power Clutch Assembly" and an "Extreme Duty" -Both descriptions claim "built to bear the brunt of extreme forces without changing the original pedal feel"

Has anyone used either of these?

 

[Napalm00]

if you arent driving "extreme" you dont need it. its just a heavier pedal and in conjunction with the dorman it will be even heavier. Since the dorman is larger diameter then the stock master the pedal effort is increased...that being said the reliability and ease of use is well worth the tradeoff.


i have a custom clutch by LOF for my "extreme" TDI before they started manufacturing this particular unit, after a leg day at the gym, heavy traffic or lots of low speed technical off-roading its def noticeable.

With your current tune being under stock power, the power will be fine and more like a stock clutch

a standard 130 clutch with the six spring center is also a great choice...what i ran for years before this stuff was available.


my 2 cents

 

[Classic4X4]

if you arent driving "extreme" you dont need it. its just a heavier pedal and in conjunction with the dorman it will be even heavier. Since the dorman is larger diameter then the stock master the pedal effort is increased...that being said the reliability and ease of use is well worth the tradeoff.


i have a custom clutch by LOF for my "extreme" TDI before they started manufacturing this particular unit, after a leg day at the gym, heavy traffic or lots of low speed technical off-roading its def noticeable.

With your current tune being under stock power, the power will be fine and more like a stock clutch

a standard 130 clutch with the six spring center is also a great choice...what i ran for years before this stuff was available.


my 2 cents

Definitely not driving "extreme" but do as fair bit of trail driving. Sounds like the regular "power clutch" kit is the move as you suggest.

While I await delivery I'm doing my research on finding the best version of all the required bits. The one item I'm still unclear on is the clutch release/throw-out bearing - I understand a special short version is needed for the R380 Stumpy?

 

[Napalm00]

Definitely not driving "extreme" but do as fair bit of trail driving. Sounds like the regular "power clutch" kit is the move as you suggest.

While I await delivery I'm doing my research on finding the best version of all the required bits. The one item I'm still unclear on is the clutch release/throw-out bearing - I understand a special short version is needed for the R380 Stumpy?

Yes short version of the throw out bearing. There is no special sprinkle version of it just the stock one.

You will also need the r380 style LT230 shift link

 

[Classic4X4]

Checked in with Winchester today and sounds like they’re a bit behind schedule - looks like trans and t case should be shipping by May 23rd.

In the meantime, I’ve been doing some other maintenance and I’m hoping to get advice on something that’s been confusing me.

What’s going on with my alternator setup?

I know the bracket is upside down, but it cannot be installed the proper way as it will not clear the water pump housing.

Belt I’m using is ETC 7939 - which looks to be the correct 200tdi defender belt - it just seems too short.

If I had a longer belt, the angle of the slotted bracket could be more diagonal and clear the pump housing.

Also - I’ve had to install a few washers as “spacers” I know there’s a LR spacer that goes into the block behind the bracket but I can’t find it anywhere.

Thanks guys

 

[erover82]

Checked in with Winchester today and sounds like they’re a bit behind schedule - looks like trans and t case should be shipping by May 23rd.

In the meantime, I’ve been doing some other maintenance and I’m hoping to get advice on something that’s been confusing me.

What’s going on with my alternator setup?

I know the bracket is upside down, but it cannot be installed the proper way as it will not clear the water pump housing.

Belt I’m using is ETC 7939 - which looks to be the correct 200tdi defender belt - it just seems too short.

If I had a longer belt, the angle of the slotted bracket could be more diagonal and clear the pump housing.

Also - I’ve had to install a few washers as “spacers” I know there’s a LR spacer that goes into the block behind the bracket but I can’t find it anywhere.

Thanks guys

It should be mounted like this. You're missing spacer ERC7974 and you'll probably need a longer bolt like the original ERC8964 which is M8 x 95mm.

 

[Classic4X4]

It should be mounted like this. You're missing spacer ERC7974 and you'll probably need a longer bolt like the original ERC8964 which is M8 x 95mm.

View attachment 23764

Looks like with the spacer, I can bring the bracket to the front of the alternator and it’ll clear. Thank you very much.

Does anyone know the length of the spacer? Hoping to find something locally as I haven’t found an online source

 

[erover82]

Looks like with the spacer, I can bring the bracket to the front of the alternator and it’ll clear. Thank you very much.

Does anyone know the length of the spacer? Hoping to find something locally as I haven’t found an online source

Yes, it’s 22mm.

 

[Classic4X4]

Yes, it’s 22mm.

You’re the man.

I made a 22mm spacer and bought the correct bolt (stainless just for tonight). I think I’m getting there but still having slight alignment issues. 6-8mm gap between bracket and front of alternator (is there a spacer at the top too?). Also don’t think it’ll clear the water pump bolt when swinging out to tension.

 

[erover82]

Looks like the alternator is somehow mount too far rearward on the lower bracket. See if something looks off down there. Tight area to photograph with your PS pump there.