Early Salisbury Axle Refurb (Brakes, Bearings & Seals)

dcg

Well-known member
Thanks for the inspiration. I got it off with 2 C-clamps, socket extension and a scrap piece of metal strap with a pre-existing hole big enough for the extension to slide through.
 

jymmiejamz

Founding Member
Callsign: KN4JHI
Not to derail more, but I just got my stuff back from Billmark plating. I sent in two sets of GEMS v8 fuel rails, clips, throttle linkages, engine lift brackets, and a bunch of radius arm washers. It was $100 for the plating. This is most of the parts

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Here you can see the difference between new genuine radius arm washers, which appear to be yellow and silver zinc, and the cad plated ones. The cad plated parts have a much more pleasant appearance than yellow zinc. I always associate yellow zinc with Terra Firma, so I try to avoid it.

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This plating turned out a little darker than I am used to, but I’m still happy with it. These parts were put on a 110 that I’m building to sell, so if it stays local I will report back after a year or so of use to see how it holds up.
 

chris snell

Administrator
Callsign: NW5W
Staff member
Great thread! I need to refurbish my Sals, too. Do you have to re-do the gear lash on the diff when you re-install or can you just put it back with the retainers in the same orientation?
 

dcg

Well-known member
I sent in two sets of GEMS v8 fuel rails, clips, throttle linkages, engine lift brackets, and a bunch of radius arm washers. It was $100 for the plating.
That's a good price for that lot (looks amazing). The minimum I had to pay was $125 + $15 return shipping. Did you have to cover the return shipping?
 

dcg

Well-known member
I need to refurbish my Sals, too. Do you have to re-do the gear lash on the diff when you re-install or can you just put it back with the retainers in the same orientation?
I'm not going to touch the gears. I have so much more on this truck to deal with. Also, there is drivetrain lash and a leaky output shaft. I figure I would get those corrected (possible output shaft issue), then see how it performs. The gears look great with minimal wear. The innards have been clean and wear mild. Other than some grease sitting at the end of the axle tubes and some mild surface rust on the left side axle tube (probably from when it was born).

I'll get a dial gauge and share the measurements. I only have a tiny Craftsman bolt on one. A lever actuated one from the 60's/70s.

Can any one recommend a good magnetic dial gauge brand?
 

jymmiejamz

Founding Member
Callsign: KN4JHI
That's a good price for that lot (looks amazing). The minimum I had to pay was $125 + $15 return shipping. Did you have to cover the return shipping?
I paid about $30 for return shipping, so we were both in the same ball park
 

dcg

Well-known member
I have to remove the existing pinion seal. This video references the Haynes manual removal method. I like this better than the hammer a screw driver through it and pry. Any suggestions?

 

Napalm00

Technical Excellence Contributor
Please dont use the land rover leather seal its total shit. use a rubber Dana 60 seal its way higher quality.

a drywall screw and a claw hammer is how i do it. start the screw and use the claw hammer to pull it out with a rocking motion, takes about 1 min.
 

dcg

Well-known member
Sounds good. I’ll be back when it is removed for greasing and install advice.

I’ll be using the STC4401 seal plus the paper seal as speced in the parts book.
 

jymmiejamz

Founding Member
Callsign: KN4JHI
I got one of those leather seals for a NAS 110 when I was at the dealership and it had completely crumbled in the packaging
 

dcg

Well-known member
I’m working on removing the seal.

Will I need a new collapsible bearing spacer? I did not mark the nut & shaft or count the threads prior to removal. I have a new self locking nut.
 

Napalm00

Technical Excellence Contributor
depends on who you ask. i just mark it and retorque it to that spot. others just use a new nut and torque to the book value.
 

dcg

Well-known member
The seal and gasket are out. I initially drilled too big of a pilot hole (twice) and everything I put in tore out. I then used the smallest bit I had. Drilled through the initial layer then nipped into the second layer. Inserted a 2” drywall/framing screw and it popped right out with a prybar against the 2x4. I removed and cleaned up the oil slinger and wiped off the pinion shaft and inner/seal walls. Should I put a thin coat of ep90 on the slinger and paper seal before inserting the main one?

The seal I referenced above is wrong (STC4401). I'm using this one:
 

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dcg

Well-known member
I stuck on installing the pinon seal. I'm using PLH415 (marked "R AEU2515"). I'm using jointing compound on the gasket and on the Sals pinion lip. The jointing compound has helped hold the seal in place. I've hammered on every perimeter surface of this thing and I can not get it to even seat. Its as if the seal is ovalized. I am very close to installing the NOS AEU2515 leather seal I have.

Any advice?
 

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Napalm00

Technical Excellence Contributor
Do not use that leather style seal. It's garbage.

Buy the Dana 60 rubber seal and call it a day. You can get it above or at any auto parts store. That thing will leak immediately it's 80 year old tech. Crap


On the rubber seal don't use sealant/jointing compound on the edges , will just make it squirm out when you are trying to install it.

A cheap properly sized PVC pipe will make install easy and square

Next time no need to drill a pilot hole when putting in the removal screw. Gets fresh drywall screw and tap it with a hammer a few.times to start it. It won't pull out that way



Again, do not use the leather seal
 
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dcg

Well-known member
I installed the Spicer seal (which is a really nice seal btw). I cleaned up all of the joint compound from the previous install attempt. Initially it went in a little cocked, but after some wacks with a PVC pipe and a dead blow it went in square. It is recessed between ~2.5mm and 3mm. It is hard to get an accurate measurement. It is in as far as it will go. The seal was pre-greased, so I left it alone and did not grease the flange sealing surface. I didn’t install the paper seal since the spicer comes with an integrated seal.

I reinstalled the flange and gave it some wacks with the same PVS pipe and dead blow as above. The last bit of distance I used a socket. In hindsight, I should have heated the flange up.

Did I damage anything by hammering the flange back on?
 

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Napalm00

Technical Excellence Contributor
nope you should be good , the rubber seal lips should not touch the perpendicular surface of the flange, cant tell from your pic but it looks good. the seal should be installed so it seats fully as you have done here, as deep as it will go.


if you heated the flange you would have melted the seal , you did it correctly. Wack it on then use the nut to draw it down to torque
 

dcg

Well-known member
Ok.. good. Here is a reference pic.
 

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dcg

Well-known member
Installed the diff cover with a proline gasket and Hylomar AF. 20-25 lbs torque per the manual. Once then waited a half hour then again. I set my wrench for 22 lbs.

I know… I should use Black right stuff… I’m doing things old school to learn. I want to have a series 1 one day. So I need to learn about drums and gaskets. The pinion seal was my first seal I’ve ever done. Diff the second. Man it’s hard to keep paint from scratching.

Stubs, backing plates and oil catchers next.
 

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