Early Salisbury Axle Refurb (Brakes, Bearings & Seals)

dcg

Well-known member
jymmiejamz: Did you have to super clean your hardware before you sent it to Billmark? "white" Cadmium or yellow?

On my truck, originally, it seams that the large bolts were silver-ish (M10). Special long M10 bolts were yellow (Boge unit and fulcrum). Very large upper link bolts and trailing arm bolts to axle are black oxide and small stuff is yellow. The black oxide held up the best. The rest of the factory coatings of this era are crap. There are Spanish trucks that have little to no corrosion, except all the hardware has surface rust.

BTW... large "barnacle" rust (rust growing rust) does not plate. I had to chiseled some off.
 

jymmiejamz

Founding Member
Callsign: KN4JHI
I didn’t clean anything, so we’ll see how they come back. I just sent two fuel rails, two throttle linkages, and two sets of engine brackets. These came off of a gems v8 which would have been silver originally, but I went with yellow cad. I think it looks better and bilmark said it lasts longer
 

dcg

Well-known member
Maybe we need a plating thread. I just went with what General Galvanizing told me which was the Cadmium (white) was the strongest coating. I prefer the yellow too, except for the drive member bolts. Bilmark has really nice writeups on their website. I may not use some of what I plated and might put a piece outside to see how it ages as an experiment. I really like how Sherardising looks when it is fresh.

I'm waiting for the weather to cooperate so I can paint the axle and other bits. It's a little cool and windy in DC right now. I'll show some progress soon. I'm chomping at the bit to assemble fresh parts. It has been 20 years since I put a part back on to this truck!
 

Napalm00

Technical Excellence Contributor
I don't think real cad is even a thing anymore. Cad is like galv a sacrificial coating, this new style cad isn't the same. Looks the same but I've been told it a different precess due to the chemicals used?
 

jymmiejamz

Founding Member
Callsign: KN4JHI
I don't think real cad is even a thing anymore. Cad is like galv a sacrificial coating, this new style cad isn't the same. Looks the same but I've been told it a different precess due to the chemicals used?
It has been banned in many countries for automotive manufacturing but I think is still used extensively in aerospace. I seem to remember reading that in California all of the places that do it were basically grandfathered in, but I don’t know if that’s true.
 

dcg

Well-known member
The right day for painting the axle. After scraping the flanges and taping the captive spring seat nuts last week, today did a light sanding with a 600 grit pad, then pre prep spray and then Starbright rust eater and converter. Let that dry and then applied a first coat of Eastwood rust encapsulator by rattle can. Had to scrape off more zebart and wax oil mid-spray.
 

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Napalm00

Technical Excellence Contributor
Looks really good. When you put this thing back on the truck don't use the mushroom cap style vent. The sizing is either 1/8 or 1/4 bsp , Granger/ebay has push fit all metal fittings for 1/4 plastic hose. Clogs way less
 

dcg

Well-known member
Final coat with Extreme chassis black (after a second coat of rust encapsulator). The satin will calm down in a week. The rust encapsulator matte looks more factory, but I went for maximum protection. Satin shows all imperfections. I figure there was a lot more original paint on the axle than not and it has survived 37 years... so I left it.

I now understand why restorers media blast then powder coat.

The Granger vent is a great idea.
 

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dcg

Well-known member
Yesterday I re-tapped the captive nuts for the spring seats to clear out paint (overkill, but I was board & itching to do something on it). I removed the old diff cover gasket and tapped the diff cover bolt holes. I blew out all the threads to remove any oil, particulate and old gasket. The gasket served to mask off of the flange while painting. This was the original factory gasket and the flange looks great.

I have an order in with RN which includes gaskets. Once I receive those I can start building it back up. I need to figure out how to remove the pinion flange as I don't have the special too hold it still while wrenching on it.
 

dcg

Well-known member
If I use RTV on the gaskets, will I be able to use them in a field fix situation or is that it once the RTV sets?
 

Napalm00

Technical Excellence Contributor
no it will rip when you remove it and just using the factory paper gasket is guaranteed to leak. also dont ever use RTV use black right stuff, its similar but not the same.

if you want to be able to remove the diff cover AND dont want it to leak buy a lubelocker reusable gasket for a dana 60. it wont leak and can be re used a few times. $



or just do what most folks do a just use black right stuff and ignore the gaskets. removing the cover is so rarely done in the field since the axles are fully floating and dont use c clips.





holding the pinion flange can be done with 2 bolts, prybar and an imapact gun for the nut. if you are trying to torque it to crush the sleeve, insert the axle and hub then use the pry bar on the hub lugs jamming it against the ground. or just wait until you have the axel under the truck and tires on
 
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dcg

Well-known member
Thanks once again for the advice. I just received my parts order, so I'll show some progress soon.

What grease do you recommend to pack the wheel bearings?
 

Napalm00

Technical Excellence Contributor
Whatever grease you use just make sure you use the same base type next time you repack them.

I like the Lucas Xtra heavy duty green or Lucas marine blue. Whatever is handy.
 

MountainD

Technical Excellence Contributor
Basically use RightStuff on anything contacting oil where gasket thickness is not critical. Follow up on that is that I think the Oil Pump is one of the few critical items--so don't use anything on that but the gasket. I use Rightstuff of my LT230, diff covers, oil pan, all hub flanges and such. Stuff rocks. I prefer to get the small gun and the small compressible canisters since they last longer than the aerosol ones that always seem to break.
I get the one (at first) that includes the small caulking gun. https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-292...stuff&qid=1621896467&s=automotive&sr=1-2&th=1
 

dcg

Well-known member
Noticed some more malleable coating on the underside. After some careful spot cleaning and touch up... I flipped it and noticed a bunch more. I addressed all of it and painted the underside. This is as good as it gets. Kind of fun to see the paint drip marks from the factory. I’m pleased with the results. I’ll be an expert in touching it up after some scrapes!

I’m waiting on some Hylomar AF.
 

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Napalm00

Technical Excellence Contributor
Looks really good. Pull that drain plug and clean it up real good and reinstall it with some ARP thread sealant on it.

You've gone this far , might as well go crazy
 

dcg

Well-known member
ARP thread sealant is on it's way. I should have had the plugs replated. It didn't dawn on me until a day or two ago. I got a new Genuine set from RN. The originals are not pitted, but will rust right away. I didn't want the rust from the plugs to migrate over to the fresh paintwork. If I ever get to the frontend, I'll have all the plugs plated and will put the originals back. You'll never catch me painting over something for convenience... like spraying lug nuts limestone along with the rim. Drives me nuts.

Is it a problem when I consider uprooting to be around a Rover friendly climate, have my own garage and a great shop down the street? I'm really jealous of the dry states where the work is all mechanical.

OT: Does anyone on the east coast know their way around the carbed 3.5 with an LT95? I need a whisperer. I'd rather not move to a Edelbrock intake.
 
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dcg

Well-known member
Installed the new Genuine drain plug with ARP thread sealant. Tightened it up and then did another 1/4 turn. The ARP reminds me of stuff I’ve used assembling my hot water radiators.

Removed the drive flange self locking nut.

Any tricks the remove the drive flange w/o a puller?

if not, can anyone recommend a kit that will work throughout the truck?
 

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Napalm00

Technical Excellence Contributor
couple sharp taps from behind should free it up . 3 jaw pullers are about $20 at HF tho
 
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