Early Salisbury Axle Refurb (Brakes, Bearings & Seals)

dcg

Well-known member
Good morning. After rust remediation and paint, I'm going to start re-assembling my early Salisbury axle (drum brakes, brake lines, bearings & seals). I've never done this before. Only discs, pads and lines on a 635CSI and front discs/pads 540i. The early hubs do not have outer seals. I'll need to ask advice on the process, best practices, and lubricants. I've reviewed the manual specific to my truck ('84 110) and watched a few videos. Any comprehensive procedures or video links would be great.

Currently, I'm putting together my parts list. Most will come from Roversnorth. What parts should I replace with new or reuse? Genuine or equivalent quality OEM? I don't want to replace any original parts if they are serviceable. Currently, I have brake backing plates on order. This is what I'm thinking (lists exclude the diff/pinion part, that comes later):

REUSE:
Drums (If they are still serviceable, if not, use Genuine)
Locknuts (Genuine are $20 per)
Key washers
Circlips
Hubs
Oil catchers
Springs (not sure here)
Brake shoes (if they are not glazed , Pro-line if replaced)

GENUINE:
Joint washers
Oil Seals (RTC3511)
Lockers
Bolts, nuts, spilt washers & screws
Wheel cylinders (+bleed screws, hardware)
Hub caps
Drums (if not serviceable)

Aftermarket / OEM:
Bearings (If I can locate the equivalent Timken part # or if Pro-line)
Brake shoes (Pro-line if the existing ones are shot, Genuine ones are really, really expensive)

Thanks everyone...
 

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jymmiejamz

Founding Member
Callsign: KN4JHI
I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong, but I think the rear wheel bearings are Timken 37 like the front axle.
 
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Napalm00

Technical Excellence Contributor
I think you're wasting money buying anything other than genuine with the exception of the hub seals/timken bearings. I buy the cheapest aftermarket parts for pretty much everything when it comes to brakes.

/Opinion
 

Frenglish

Well-known member
are you replacing the input seal from the prop shaft? If so I would replace this with something other than the leather one that originally came with it. Technology has advanced since then and there is another option I believe for that.

STC4401​

 
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dcg

Well-known member
I think you're wasting money buying anything other than genuine with the exception of the hub seals/timken bearings. I buy the cheapest aftermarket parts for pretty much everything when it comes to brakes.

/Opinion
I'm starting to realize this... It's not sinking in fast enough though. Zach at RN is helping be put together a sane parts list. Unrelated: I put my name on the list for the final Brownchurch CT Brush bar run. If it happens.
 

Napalm00

Technical Excellence Contributor
I found that the timken bearings are the cheapest on Rockauto or even after shipping You just have to wait
 

Tbaumer

Technical Excellence Contributor
Hoping you get this moved this to the Defender write up, HOWTO & FAQ's section by doing an easy to follow thread - Requesting pics of the refurb when you do it - This is in my future.
 

dcg

Well-known member
Hoping you get this moved this to the Defender write up, HOWTO & FAQ's section by doing an easy to follow thread - Requesting pics of the refurb when you do it - This is in my future.
Will do. This is an early 110 Sals with oil catchers and no outer seals. I'm a novice, but very detail oriented, handy and willing to listen to experts.
 

dcg

Well-known member
Drum question: Resurface or replace? After a few calls, I have not located a shop to resurface/skim. I assume the price to replace them will probably cost the same as resurfacing. I refinished these.
 

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dcg

Well-known member
I cleaned up the oil catchers and stub axles and painted the vulnerable areas. I used Evapo-Rust and then Eastwood degreaser (I think it used to be a POR product). For stuff with zero rust (catchers), I use Eastwood pre painting prep, Extreme chassis black primer and then Extreme chassis black. For stuff with a little rust to a lot I use pre prep and then Eastwood rust encapsulator matte black (there was a little bit of rust on the bases of the stubs). The Eastwood products are expensive, but I've had nothing but excellent results.

I'll give the stub axles a quick polish when they are mounted.
 

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dcg

Well-known member
I pulled the diff cover and I’m currently cleaning that up. Gears look pretty good. I will try to follow the manual to see if there is any play. Britannica Restorations says leave it alone since a Sals is such a pain to service.
 

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dcg

Well-known member
The drive member bolts and the bolts that hold on the oils catchers, brake backing plate and stub axles are NLA. Craddock has the drive member bolts for £5 each (x10). Not sure of the quality or if they are the superseded ones. I decided to send a lot out for replating . I’ll post a photo when that returns.
 
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dcg

Well-known member
The oil catchers require sealing to the backplate using Hylomar SQ32M. I’ll have to see if I can source some.

Any suggestions for grease or gasket sealer for the following?

joint washer
diff gasket
oil catchers
 
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dcg

Well-known member
Fresh Cadmium plating has returned! Any answers to the above questions?
 

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jymmiejamz

Founding Member
Callsign: KN4JHI
I love fresh cad plating. Who did you use? I just sent a bunch of engine parts out a couple of weeks ago
 

dcg

Well-known member
I love fresh cad plating. Who did you use? I just sent a bunch of engine parts out a couple of weeks ago
General Galvanizing in the Bronx. I wish I could find someone local to cut the shipping costs out.

This is the fuel pump plate in zinc w/ a yellow dip.
 

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