What have you done today to your LAND ROVER (Non Defender)

LostChord

Well-known member
Rear main seal, spigot bushing, gasket and flywheel housing, flywheel and clutch. Back to where this all started, ready to put new tranny in.

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Special thanks to Dan (@Dan kemper ) and Matt (@Napalm00) for the one-on-one help!
 
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Dan kemper

Founding Member
Callsign: KK6ECF
Nice work! All down hill from there. Attached is what I used to replace seals for tunnel, floors etc. worked perfect and looked better than factory job.
Window Insulation Tape-3 Rolls, 3/4 Inch Wide X 1/8 Inch Thick Weatherstrip Adhesive Sound Proof Closed Cell Window Insulation Foam Strip Total 50 Feet Long(17ft x 3 Rolls ) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06ZZDJ19L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1BFPEbSN99GV5
 

LostChord

Well-known member
Nice work! All down hill from there. Attached is what I used to replace seals for tunnel, floors etc. worked perfect and looked better than factory job.
Window Insulation Tape-3 Rolls, 3/4 Inch Wide X 1/8 Inch Thick Weatherstrip Adhesive Sound Proof Closed Cell Window Insulation Foam Strip Total 50 Feet Long(17ft x 3 Rolls ) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06ZZDJ19L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1BFPEbSN99GV5

Nice!

Thanks Dan...looking forward to getting that far in the process...
 

brdhmltn

Well-known member
The Disco whale opened it's blowhole at lunch today. Split the bleed screw in half. A temporary brass screw and 30 minutes later I'm back. Always have a temp gauge on a D2.
 

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jymmiejamz

Founding Member
Callsign: KN4JHI
The Disco whale opened it's blowhole at lunch today. Split the bleed screw in half. A temporary brass screw and 30 minutes later I'm back. Always have a temp gauge on a D2.

That looks like an aftermarket hose. MY experience has been the plastic on those is junk. Also, the rubber looks quite swollen. I would replace with Genuine.
 

Angus

Well-known member
I pulled into my garage last week and noticed I did not see the red glow of my brake lights in the inside of the door. Not even sure how long I had been driving it without brake lights. Traced it to the switch, which had worn through the insulation on both wires right where they come out of the back shell. Zack got me up and running again, but they do not make those switches easy to get at.
View attachment 12762
 

LiquidMoose

Well-known member
I attempted a seal replacement on my alpine windows while headliner is out and I blew it. After over an hour try8ng to get glass to seat in warmed seals, i just couldn’t get top to seat. Glass kept slowly easing out. Could never get the seal to correctly turn over so glass sits in correct position— possibly do to roof being slightly bent or slightly due to britpart seals. Finally used silicone lube instead of dish soap and on first attempt, it slowly popped back out nd boy was it slippery! Vroooooom, right onto the ground in a million pieces. Duct tape now employed while I wait. Yes. I cursed. A lot. When we did Dave’s, this went way easier... Genuine seals ordered as I don’t want to screw around. I’ll also compare seals for everyone. I’m not blaming the seal outright as I don’t have a genuine to compare it to, but I’m not happy. i always hate when I order OEM and it comes in a blue bag... glass and seals both 4mm, as I know there are other sizes. Ordered 2 windows to make sure the match and now I’ll have a spare (hopefully, I won’t need it).
It's not often I admit defeat but I did with the alpine windows. My attempts were similar to yours along with help from a buddy, we gave up after a couple of hours without breaking anything. Had a pro do it, took him less than 10 minutes per side all the while chitchating with his kid on his cell phone. $100, but worth it.
 

MountainD

Technical Excellence Contributor
It's not often I admit defeat but I did with the alpine windows. My attempts were similar to yours along with help from a buddy, we gave up after a couple of hours without breaking anything. Had a pro do it, took him less than 10 minutes per side all the while chitchating with his kid on his cell phone. $100, but worth it.
Well shit. Makes me want to have “them” do it. BUT I just have to give it one more shot. Did you gleam anything from them to add as a tip? Heat up seal, use soap or other lubricant... all that I got. I even got the glass in the seal all the way around, but it was as if the seal at top kept wanting to poke outward and the glass kept oooozing out. Sure would love someone to do it for me... I was pissed for hours...
 

MountainD

Technical Excellence Contributor
I have that tool (actually Jablonski's that I borrowed) but I have not even gotten that far!!
 

LostChord

Well-known member
Put the 110 on hold while I gather/wait for parts. I did drop the disco axles though. I moved onto my late 2a, I new a p.o. at some point fixed the tub, the bindi was cracking, so I decided to investigate. And spend the rest of the day banging on it..

Wow, nice work!
 

LostChord

Well-known member
No pictures this time around, but finally got the fluids in, propshafts back on, seatbox set in place, handbrake reconnected and clutch bled. Test drive done and in the books.

The taller 5th gear and 1.4 make a big difference.

All systems check out except for diff lock dash light. And still have a tiny drip of oil between the flywheel housing and block. Not enough to worry about, but either I didn't use enough sealant, or I should have done the tseals like Matt said. I can live with it.

Now time to button it all back up. For now.
 

lcdck

Well-known member
Last night I got the last of my parts needed to prep a 200tdi before install. I ordered a genuine rear main seal from Rovers North but now I'm questioning if I shouldn't have ordered from Turner to get a dowty. Are Dowty's even made anymore?

I pulled the clutch, flywheel, and flywheel gasket. Man, there was a lot of oil between the bottom of the block and the gasket. Is this an indication of bad T seals or fairly normal?

RTV on both sides of the gasket on reinstall?
 

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Mattarm

Well-known member
Well shit. Makes me want to have “them” do it. BUT I just have to give it one more shot. Did you gleam anything from them to add as a tip? Heat up seal, use soap or other lubricant... all that I got. I even got the glass in the seal all the way around, but it was as if the seal at top kept wanting to poke outward and the glass kept oooozing out. Sure would love someone to do it for me... I was pissed for hours...

Replacing the seals on my alpine windows was BY FAR the most challenging task on my entire rebuild. I had success using WD40 as a lubricant and had the luxury of no headliner to get in the way. First side took me 45 minutes to coerce the seal into place. Since I was experienced the 2nd side only took me 75 minutes.
 

LostChord

Well-known member
Last night I got the last of my parts needed to prep a 200tdi before install. I ordered a genuine rear main seal from Rovers North but now I'm questioning if I shouldn't have ordered from Turner to get a dowty. Are Dowty's even made anymore?

As far as I can tell, Dowty's are only available from Turner as part of a bottom gasket set. Zack at RN would know for sure. If I'm not getting my parts hoard confused, I think I have a complete unopened set since I bought two so that I could have a backup (in case I buggered up the first one). Lemme know if you want it.

I pulled the clutch, flywheel, and flywheel gasket. Man, there was a lot of oil between the bottom of the block and the gasket. Is this an indication of bad T seals or fairly normal?

Someone more experienced then me may need to chime in, but it seems common on these trucks. It can be mitigated with new tseals and a new gasket. And some RTV.

RTV on both sides of the gasket on reinstall?

Not sure what the workshop manual says, but I did both sides. Well, one on the gasket (flwheel housing side) and one on the block, so ended up on both sides of the gasket.
 
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