What have you done to your DEFENDER today?

WreckITFrank

Technical Excellence Contributor
I’ve got a giant list of projects I need to do on my 110, biggest being a complete rewire after a small electrical meltdown. I decided to start today off with an easy win.

I swapped out my Salisbury diff cover with one from a front Dana 60. It’s about 2mm thicker, from memory. This should definitely be adequate protection for the rear without the jeepish look of an ARB rear diff cover. View attachment 27926

I had installed a Detroit locker last year, but didn’t replace the drain plug with the later D2 type that features a magnet to catch any metal debris.

View attachment 27927
Have a part number? Or a make/model to order against?
 

hillstrubl

Founding Member
My fabricator college roomate offered me a tire rack for my jeep 17 years ago at my wedding as a gift. I never took him up on it... today that jeep Tire rack became a custom sleeved, reinforced, backplated "Montero hitch". We ran out of time to reuse the frame tie-in from the UK hitch, but will add that in the near future. That plan is to notch it a bit (to clear the fuel tank) and rotate up ~30 degrees to tie into the bottom of the Montero hitch. The original one was joined to the crossmember with welds, bolts and magic apparently. A LOT of cutting wheel action and sledge hammering to get it off. I love how it came out. 6" savings in ground clearance! I also was able to finally find the time to fix the broken rear swaybar link from Greek Peak. Great day.

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After drilling out the holes to fit the new sleeves, he welded them into the crossmember

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Angus

Well-known member
Hard to say as I haven’t disassembled it yet. There are quite a few aftermarket accessories installed, but the vehicle also had work done by a shop in Florida (mostly poorly done). The circuit for gauge illumination is the wire that melted while I was in Colorado at the start of a trip. Ended up driving it back to VA after that.

I also installed some new pan hard rod bushings and corrected the bolt that was installed backwards and hitting the axle housing View attachment 27932
What is the story with the slotted hole in your steering box tie bar?
 

Angus

Well-known member
His slot is on the other side...or are both holes slotted?

Mine has no slots and is original as far as I know.
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jymmiejamz

Founding Member
Callsign: KN4JHI
Have a part number? Or a make/model to order against?
I think this is the one. You will also need to order a fill plug. I ordered a 5 pack from Amazon. I can get that part number when I’m back at work.

What is the story with the slotted hole in your steering box tie bar?
Not sure, but I’ve definitely run across that before. Maybe older defenders were like that.
 

erover82

Well-known member
Grade 3 bolts? 🫣. Not really worried about them breaking, but not what I expected!

Grade 5 actually :)

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However, I'm glad you prompted me take a look since I noticed the bolts are just shy of the proper length to engage the nylon ring of the lock nuts. Late night blunder? Also interestingly, the later metric bolts used here were grade 10.9 which would roughly correspond to SAE grade 8.
 

UnfrozenCaveman

Well-known member
Changed lube in axles, swivels, trans & t-case ... new RuffStuff diff cover. The o.e. cover had been massaged often enough that it was a bit drippy. Yes, the Perentie stows the spare where the fuel tank should be

It's white because that's how it came from the Aus Army...convoy light shines on it.
😉
Oh, and flushed the brake fluid.
 

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uc4me

Well-known member
just for measure my tith steering box tie bar is slotted..NAS is not. BTW, everyone's undercarriage looks so damn clean..

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MountainD

Technical Excellence Contributor
Grade 5 actually :)

View attachment 27948

However, I'm glad you prompted me take a look since I noticed the bolts are just shy of the proper length to engage the nylon ring of the lock nuts. Late night blunder? Also interestingly, the later metric bolts used here were grade 10.9 which would roughly correspond to SAE grade 8.
Yeah, brain fart. Too much nitromethane and partying with friends last night at NHRA races. Glad you got what I meant!
 

jymmiejamz

Founding Member
Callsign: KN4JHI
So I didn’t technically do anything, but I am excited about this. As many of you know, the Dixon Bate 5 ton tow jaw has been NLA for quite some time. A company in the UK is now selling 5 ton tow jaws without the trailer ball on top. They aren’t a perfect match, but I’m going to drop this off for powder coat tomorrow to get it a little closer to the original.

I also scored a takeoff JSQ 2” receiver, so now I can ditch the NAS style step bumper, but still have a proper receiver.
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chris snell

Administrator
Callsign: NW5W
Staff member
I also scored a takeoff JSQ 2” receiver, so now I can ditch the NAS style step bumper, but still have a proper receiver.

Sweet score on the DB clone. What's your take the on the JSQ plate? Do you think it's beefy enough to hold a dirt bike on a hitch rack, about 300 lbs total tongue weight? Thought about maybe welding on some supports or something.
 

jymmiejamz

Founding Member
Callsign: KN4JHI
Sweet score on the DB clone. What's your take the on the JSQ plate? Do you think it's beefy enough to hold a dirt bike on a hitch rack, about 300 lbs total tongue weight? Thought about maybe welding on some supports or something.
I would think so based on how it mounts and the way the load will be applied. The one I have came off of a customer’s vehicle and has a slight bend in it because they didn’t use any bolts on the bottom. I’m guessing they towed a trailer with it mounted incorrectly. I would be more concerned about the strength of the rear crossmember than the strength of the receiver itself.
 

erover82

Well-known member
I also scored a takeoff JSQ 2” receiver, so now I can ditch the NAS style step bumper, but still have a proper receiver.

Why is the JSQ receiver better? Seems like the step bumper would distribute the load while the JSQ is just a plate that hangs down. For strength, the receivers that bolt to the crossmember while also having two tie bars back to the chassis rails should be strongest, though they do make good departure plows.
 
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