Getting close. No garage days allowed on Mother’s Day! So have to wait until Monday to wrap it up.
Once you have the inner torqued, you need to bend the washer tab down. That's what keeps it from tightening as you're describing. Then, you bend the tab forward on the outer, and you're done. At least, with that part...View attachment 30158
I decided to pull the the swivel as a unit to refresh this side. I was not prepared for how heavy it was. This at least gives me a chance to work on this in my garage and not be blocked by the daily rains.
Also, how are you all able to get the correct torque on your wheel bearings? Every time I torque down the outer, it also tightens the inner to the point where the wheel doesn’t even spin. This is without having yet bent the lock washer tabs.
So in the manual photo above, it says to bend the tabs after torquing the lock nut. I think I’ve tried it both ways but they still move in tandem.Once you have the inner torqued, you need to bend the washer tab down. That's what keeps it from tightening as you're describing. Then, you bend the tab forward on the outer, and you're done. At least, with that part...
Wow that looks great!finally finished the barrier mat install. it was more annoying that I originally thought, but probably still easier than the wright...maybe
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So in the manual photo above, it says to bend the tabs after torquing the lock nut. I think I’ve tried it both ways but they still move in tandem.
Okay for whatever reason the drivers side torqued up no problem. I guess I’ll try again with the passenger side.
You installed new races and rear seal?Okay for whatever reason the drivers side torqued up no problem. I guess I’ll try again with the passenger side.
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Managed to get this somewhat buttoned up today. New wheel bearings, new axle/cv, drive flange, hub seal and studs. This went way faster this time around.
Oh yes that actually makes perfect sense. Thanks!Once the preload is set on the inner nut, and the washer is bent over it, the nut should be incapable of spinning unless the washer spins, and the washer can't spin because it's locked to the stub axle by the flat seen here in #15.
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Yep, and managed to hit my hand as hard as I possibly could while driving one of the races in. I think people in space heard me yell F.You installed new races and rear seal?
The spacer and washer are both “notched” with a flat inner edge so they can’t or shouldn’t allow the nuts to spin against each other. Is there any chance you don’t have the correct spacer/washer? Maybe I’m missing something.So in the manual photo above, it says to bend the tabs after torquing the lock nut. I think I’ve tried it both ways but they still move in tandem.
Those are great, but probably won’t fix your overheating issues. I’d recommend their thermostat as well.in quest to stamp out heating at low speed, i'm trying the flow kooler water pump. The manufacturer claims higher flow rate at less than 3000 RPM. The reviews on the internet (by mostly by jeep owners) are mixed. Here are a few pix from the project. The original pump seem fine - bearing has little/no play. Now, i need to get on the trail on a 90F+ day and see what happens.
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Great innovation. They don’t offer a tdi optionThose are great, but probably won’t fix your overheating issues. I’d recommend their thermostat as well.
Might be worth reaching out to them to see if they would be will to make them.Great innovation. They don’t offer a tdi option![]()
I have a superstat brand thermostat that I put in not long ago. What's different/good about flow kooler's t-stat? I really haven't looked.Those are great, but probably won’t fix your overheating issues. I’d recommend their thermostat as well.