What have you done to your DEFENDER today?

Getting close. No garage days allowed on Mother’s Day! So have to wait until Monday to wrap it up.
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lithium1330

Technical Excellence Contributor
Callsign: KM6FDG
in quest to stamp out heating at low speed, i'm trying the flow kooler water pump. The manufacturer claims higher flow rate at less than 3000 RPM. The reviews on the internet (by mostly by jeep owners) are mixed. Here are a few pix from the project. The original pump seem fine - bearing has little/no play. Now, i need to get on the trail on a 90F+ day and see what happens.

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Priapus

Active member
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I decided to pull the the swivel as a unit to refresh this side. I was not prepared for how heavy it was. This at least gives me a chance to work on this in my garage and not be blocked by the daily rains.

Also, how are you all able to get the correct torque on your wheel bearings? Every time I torque down the outer, it also tightens the inner to the point where the wheel doesn’t even spin. This is without having yet bent the lock washer tabs.
 
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I decided to pull the the swivel as a unit to refresh this side. I was not prepared for how heavy it was. This at least gives me a chance to work on this in my garage and not be blocked by the daily rains.

Also, how are you all able to get the correct torque on your wheel bearings? Every time I torque down the outer, it also tightens the inner to the point where the wheel doesn’t even spin. This is without having yet bent the lock washer tabs.
Once you have the inner torqued, you need to bend the washer tab down. That's what keeps it from tightening as you're describing. Then, you bend the tab forward on the outer, and you're done. At least, with that part...
 
You might look over the manual pics. I don’t see any mention of an inner bearing locking tab. 50 NM, back off 90 degrees and tighten 10 NM. Outer lock nut is a one time 50 NM with lock tab.
When you reassemble, you will want to it on the truck a la carte….as the swivel preload is sans axle and and swivel housing seal. Locktite as needed. Torque values in bottom pic.
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Priapus

Active member
Once you have the inner torqued, you need to bend the washer tab down. That's what keeps it from tightening as you're describing. Then, you bend the tab forward on the outer, and you're done. At least, with that part...
So in the manual photo above, it says to bend the tabs after torquing the lock nut. I think I’ve tried it both ways but they still move in tandem.
 

Priapus

Active member
So in the manual photo above, it says to bend the tabs after torquing the lock nut. I think I’ve tried it both ways but they still move in tandem.

Okay for whatever reason the drivers side torqued up no problem. I guess I’ll try again with the passenger side.

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Managed to get this somewhat buttoned up today. New wheel bearings, new axle/cv, drive flange, hub seal and studs. This went way faster this time around.
 
Okay for whatever reason the drivers side torqued up no problem. I guess I’ll try again with the passenger side.

Once the preload is set on the inner nut, and the washer is bent over it, the nut should be incapable of spinning unless the washer spins, and the washer can't spin because it's locked to the stub axle by the flat seen here in #15.

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Priapus

Active member
Once the preload is set on the inner nut, and the washer is bent over it, the nut should be incapable of spinning unless the washer spins, and the washer can't spin because it's locked to the stub axle by the flat seen here in #15.

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Oh yes that actually makes perfect sense. Thanks!

You installed new races and rear seal?
Yep, and managed to hit my hand as hard as I possibly could while driving one of the races in. I think people in space heard me yell F.
 
So in the manual photo above, it says to bend the tabs after torquing the lock nut. I think I’ve tried it both ways but they still move in tandem.
The spacer and washer are both “notched” with a flat inner edge so they can’t or shouldn’t allow the nuts to spin against each other. Is there any chance you don’t have the correct spacer/washer? Maybe I’m missing something.
 

jymmiejamz

0
Callsign: KN4JHI
in quest to stamp out heating at low speed, i'm trying the flow kooler water pump. The manufacturer claims higher flow rate at less than 3000 RPM. The reviews on the internet (by mostly by jeep owners) are mixed. Here are a few pix from the project. The original pump seem fine - bearing has little/no play. Now, i need to get on the trail on a 90F+ day and see what happens.

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Those are great, but probably won’t fix your overheating issues. I’d recommend their thermostat as well.
 

lithium1330

Technical Excellence Contributor
Callsign: KM6FDG
Those are great, but probably won’t fix your overheating issues. I’d recommend their thermostat as well.
I have a superstat brand thermostat that I put in not long ago. What's different/good about flow kooler's t-stat? I really haven't looked.
I'm also changing out the coolant (stuff in there is at least 5, maybe 6 yrs old).
Fingers crossed!
 
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