What have you done to your DEFENDER today?

SaintPanzer

Well-known member
I love wiring. Sounds like a proper setup. One observation, if reading correctly, is your busbar feed 10AWG? if so its way too small for comfort, especially if running halogens.

As @Mirrajumper said, send pics...
If I send pics, everyone will know how horrible I am at wiring!

Don't get me wrong: I like wiring, but I'm not good at finding good "hidden paths" for the wires, and the relay box ended up looking like more of a rat's nest than I intended. The fuses are adequate, and they are 30 amp relays, but they are so close together that the heavy wires are longer than they could be just to make the bends. Then, after that length was added, it was "squished" down to the chassis (actually, the wheel well) they splay everywhere, which doesn't look good at all. What I really need is a few hours with a wire professional to show me some tricks for threading the wires through things, and finding the best paths to take.

I see your point on the 10 gauge being small... The problem I was having is being able to crimp on the fittings. My Ancor crimper only goes up to 10, and it's a different item for larger. I'll re-do the math, I may have forgotten to add the two 100 Watt loads. All the lights are not on at the same time, but I can see where either both main beams or dips and fogs need to be added together. At least now I know how long a 4 gauge wire I need!

For the record: some will say solder, not crimp. But my other hobby involves boats, and ABYC specifically bans soldering, as it makes a hard spot that doesn't work well with vibration. So all my "skills" (he says, blushing) are boat based, and so I don't solder. I do used tinned, stranded wire for the same reason.
 

WreckITFrank

Technical Excellence Contributor
If I send pics, everyone will know how horrible I am at wiring!

Don't get me wrong: I like wiring, but I'm not good at finding good "hidden paths" for the wires, and the relay box ended up looking like more of a rat's nest than I intended. The fuses are adequate, and they are 30 amp relays, but they are so close together that the heavy wires are longer than they could be just to make the bends. Then, after that length was added, it was "squished" down to the chassis (actually, the wheel well) they splay everywhere, which doesn't look good at all. What I really need is a few hours with a wire professional to show me some tricks for threading the wires through things, and finding the best paths to take.

I see your point on the 10 gauge being small... The problem I was having is being able to crimp on the fittings. My Ancor crimper only goes up to 10, and it's a different item for larger. I'll re-do the math, I may have forgotten to add the two 100 Watt loads. All the lights are not on at the same time, but I can see where either both main beams or dips and fogs need to be added together. At least now I know how long a 4 gauge wire I need!

For the record: some will say solder, not crimp. But my other hobby involves boats, and ABYC specifically bans soldering, as it makes a hard spot that doesn't work well with vibration. So all my "skills" (he says, blushing) are boat based, and so I don't solder. I do used tinned, stranded wire for the same reason.
happy to send you some crimped cables if you know the size, length, and eyelet size you want (if in the US). Otherwise you cant beat https://www.batterycablesusa.com/ for custom made cables.
 

LazyRabbit

Well-known member
What radio is that?? That's cool looking
Amazon special

5 Inch Single Din Car Stereo Built-in Apple CarPlay/Android Auto/Mirror-Link, Touchscreen Radio Receiver with Bluetooth 5.1 Handsfree and 12LED HD Backup Camera, FM USB Audio Video Player https://a.co/d/eBpBCvv

6562BC99-A143-462F-B21F-408CFFEDB920.jpeg
 

hillstrubl

Founding Member
Wired up some new USB outlets for the 2nd row (11 year old was annoyed with the charging options at Greek Peak... :rolleyes:) and for shits and giggles added some in the very back as well. Also added my (small, will update the panel later) solar charger and charging controller. Too many in-line fuses hanging off the positive now though, going to add an aux fuse block as I'm putting some more lights up soon too.
 

John Z

Well-known member
Amazon special

5 Inch Single Din Car Stereo Built-in Apple CarPlay/Android Auto/Mirror-Link, Touchscreen Radio Receiver with Bluetooth 5.1 Handsfree and 12LED HD Backup Camera, FM USB Audio Video Player https://a.co/d/eBpBCvv

View attachment 27755
Stupid question.. if you turn the knob rapidly, does it register or not really?
Like imagine you're trying to find a house number on a mailbox at night and inorder to see better you just give a quick flick of the knob counter clockwise to mute the radio. Will it register?
 

MountainD

Technical Excellence Contributor
Wired up some new USB outlets for the 2nd row (11 year old was annoyed with the charging options at Greek Peak... :rolleyes:) and for shits and giggles added some in the very back as well. Also added my (small, will update the panel later) solar charger and charging controller. Too many in-line fuses hanging off the positive now though, going to add an aux fuse block as I'm putting some more lights up soon too.
I’ve been using mini fuse/relay centers and highly recommend them. I’ve been using the Bussman ones (they make multiple sizes and styles such as https://www.waytekwire.com/product/eaton-s-bussmann-series-15305-5-2-4-rtmr-mini-fuse ). I have the small on my 90 and a large on my 110. They are weather proof so can go anywhere. Here is the one I recently put in my 110 with room for expansion—this was just as I was populating it— this reminds me to label my cover).
IMG_8265.jpeg

you can use them for fuses, relays, fused relays— you put them together to your use. I feed it off a CB coming from battery compartment:
IMG_8424.jpeg

I have several circuit breakers in here mounted opposite the battery as I have some big accessories (like compressor) that I need to keep separate. Two 100A relays feed the two terminals on the control center. The relays and fuses go up to 30A in the control center, wire size up to 10 gauge. I come off the battery disconnect (red dial, on far right, above) with multiple circuit breaker feeds so everything goes dead when I turn the dial.
 
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Mirrajumper

Well-known member
I’ve been using mini fuse/relay centers and highly recommend them. I’ve been using the Bussman ones (they make multiple sizes and styles such as https://www.waytekwire.com/product/eaton-s-bussmann-series-15305-5-2-4-rtmr-mini-fuse ). I have the small on my 90 and a large on my 110. They are weather proof so can go anywhere. Here is the one I recently put in my 110 with room for expansion—this was just as I was populating it— this reminds me to label my cover).
View attachment 27761
you can use them for fuses, relays, fused relays— you put them together to your use. I feed it off a CB coming from battery compartment:
View attachment 27762
I have several circuit breakers in here mounted opposite the battery as I have some big accessories (like compressor) that I need to keep separate. Two 100A relays feed the two terminals on the control center. The relays and fuses go up to 30A in the control center, wire size up to 10 gauge. I come off the battery disconnect (red dial, on far right, above) with multiple circuit breaker feeds so everything goes dead when I turn the dial.
Green with envy: tidy wiring!
 

dkemm

Well-known member
I’ve been using mini fuse/relay centers and highly recommend them. I’ve been using the Bussman ones (they make multiple sizes and styles such as https://www.waytekwire.com/product/eaton-s-bussmann-series-15305-5-2-4-rtmr-mini-fuse ). I have the small on my 90 and a large on my 110. They are weather proof so can go anywhere. Here is the one I recently put in my 110 with room for expansion—this was just as I was populating it— this reminds me to label my cover).

you can use them for fuses, relays, fused relays— you put them together to your use. I feed it off a CB coming from battery compartment:

I have several circuit breakers in here mounted opposite the battery as I have some big accessories (like compressor) that I need to keep separate. Two 100A relays feed the two terminals on the control center. The relays and fuses go up to 30A in the control center, wire size up to 10 gauge. I come off the battery disconnect (red dial, on far right, above) with multiple circuit breaker feeds so everything goes dead when I turn the dial.
Damnit!!! now I have to spend more time in my battery box.... This Arms Race is time consuming!!! Might have to take a break and do some Honey-Do's first..
 

LazyRabbit

Well-known member
Stupid question.. if you turn the knob rapidly, does it register or not really?
Like imagine you're trying to find a house number on a mailbox at night and inorder to see better you just give a quick flick of the knob counter clockwise to mute the radio. Will it register?
I will get back to you this weekend. Waiting on solder so I can wire it up properly.
 

hillstrubl

Founding Member
I’ve been using mini fuse/relay centers and highly recommend them. I’ve been using the Bussman ones (they make multiple sizes and styles such as https://www.waytekwire.com/product/eaton-s-bussmann-series-15305-5-2-4-rtmr-mini-fuse ). I have the small on my 90 and a large on my 110. They are weather proof so can go anywhere. Here is the one I recently put in my 110 with room for expansion—this was just as I was populating it— this reminds me to label my cover).
View attachment 27761
you can use them for fuses, relays, fused relays— you put them together to your use. I feed it off a CB coming from battery compartment:
View attachment 27762
I have several circuit breakers in here mounted opposite the battery as I have some big accessories (like compressor) that I need to keep separate. Two 100A relays feed the two terminals on the control center. The relays and fuses go up to 30A in the control center, wire size up to 10 gauge. I come off the battery disconnect (red dial, on far right, above) with multiple circuit breaker feeds so everything goes dead when I turn the dial.
I ordered a "generic" waterproof aux fuse block that arrived today as I want to get rid of the 4 or 5 inline fuses I have today. Now I'm rethinking that.

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Removed the broken rear swaybar link (and the other side) and tied up the swaybar for now. No more clunking.

Also did some wirewheeling crust removal :oops: in that general area.

1687480465672.png
 

SCRover

Well-known member
Project #2 - Terrafirma corner protectors

IMG_0028.jpg


This was a PITA. I have an auxiliary gas tank in the right corner so there is no room to get the top two bolts in. The bolts are long enough to go through both sides of the rear crossmember but there's not enough room between the crossmember and the tank to maneuver the bolt. The bolt has to go through from the back because the bolt holes are behind the step. Any suggestions?

IMG_0029.jpg


From now on I'm only doing easy projects. Anybody know any easy projects on a Defender?
 
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