What have you done to your DEFENDER today?

[Angus]

I've had cats self destruct before with death rattle. Ultimately the bits passed like kidney stones.

These were my second set of aftermarket ones. Apparently, the entire matrix on the right cat broke loose and was banging around. Could not shake it out. It was loud enough that I originally though the engine expired. I am surprised how much louder the truck is now, so the cats were probably plugged up too.

 

[LRNAD90]

I have noticed a bit more exhaust smell, but I am getting a new exhaust tip with a downturn to help.

Mine is cut off for 'off-road clearance', but there is a noticible difference in offensive odor at start-up and after the cats warm up..

 

[rocky]

Aw Crap. Time to chase some elusive electrical gremlins. Thankfully just affecting the radio but that’s important. It was working yesterday….

 

[Bmoreau]

Removing the OME springs and shocks I just installed a couple weeks ago. It’s too tall and rubs the roof going into my garage

 

[dkemm]

Removing the OME springs and shocks I just installed a couple weeks ago. It’s too tall and rubs the roof going into my garage



If its rubbing on the door as you enter/exit...you may be able to adjust the door opening height.... btw - love the maxjax

 

[LRNAD90]

x2 (on both the door height and that MaxJax)..

I have to lift my garage door above the opening, and then back the D90 in. This lets the rear hoop of the ST cage just barely clear the 7' opening (rubs the rubber weather stripping) before the rear tires 'step-up' onto the garage floor/apron (at which point it is too high to go through the door, ie. I can't pull in I have to back in)..

 

[Mdubs]

Removing the OME springs and shocks I just installed a couple weeks ago. It’s too tall and rubs the roof going into my garage
View attachment 27636

I got a guy to increase my garage height rather than undo my 110’s suspension. My wife thought I was insane.

 

[LazyRabbit]

I got a guy to increase my garage height rather than undo my 110’s suspension. My wife thought I was insane.

I want to do the same. Was it terribly expensive. My defender and my wife’s FJ can only fit they have a full tank of gas and 200lbs in the back. To back her’s out I have let some air out of the back tires.

 

[LazyRabbit]

I have massive and sudden death wobble in 30-45 mph range, going to check my swivel preload and and ensure all the suspension is tight.

 

[Nick&Nora]

I want to do the same. Was it terribly expensive. My defender and my wife’s FJ can only fit they have a full tank of gas and 200lbs in the back. To back her’s out I have let some air out of the back tires.

I had a double door and a single raised, then had that side of the house stuccoed and painted, electric moved for new wall mounted openers and outside lights moved for ~12k plus new doors. So it is a commitment. In Arizona.

 

[Mattarm]

I went from two 7x7 doors to a single 18x8. Best decision ever. Only wish my garage ceiling was higher than 9.5 feet.

I want to say door + side mount opener + lumber + labor was ~$3,500 all in.

 

[John Z]

Went to the 75th

 

[dkemm]

I have massive and sudden death wobble in 30-45 mph range, going to check my swivel preload and and ensure all the suspension is tight.

check all of your steering connections. I found a hairline crack in my steering box to frame arm connector. only found the crack by watching movement with the wheels up. Welded it and fixed it....since replaced with new part. Also check your steering drop arm...have had that get loose in the past.

 

[Ansley Rover]

I want to do the same. Was it terribly expensive. My defender and my wife’s FJ can only fit they have a full tank of gas and 200lbs in the back. To back her’s out I have let some air out of the back tires.

I’m about to take out a header that’s just for looks in mine as well so I can finally fit the rear OME springs/shocks plus the front runner rack I got specifically bc I thought it’d be slim enough to get in the garage. And it would have been if I hadn’t decided to replace the shocks and springs. But really like them on the front.

 

[jymmiejamz]

I’ve spent the last two hours pressure washing the underside of mine after Greek Peak.

 

[SaintPanzer]

Now, here's a project I've been nibbling at for far too long... but now it's "job done".

Headlight and Fog Light relays.

I wish I was better at wiring. The connections are correct, and I'm getting a lot better at labeling things (heat shrink labels are very helpful), but I want to get "neater" at actually stringing the wires. Patience helps.

That said:
All wires/connectors are marine grade "Ancor" tinned stranded wire. Bus blocks are from Blue Sea Systems. I found a relay box on Amazon, I don't remember the company, but it's listed (and seems to be) waterproof.

I ran a 10 gauge wire to a bus block in the engine bay, accessible under the faux intake opposite the heater intake. My Defender is RHD, so it's on the right side. Next to the bus bar, I mounted the relay box, which holds six relays and six fuses. For the fog lights, I installed a new switch on the steering column (RN part number: PLE498). This switch is actually supposed to be for the rear fogs, but I have that next to the hazard and rear defogger switch, so I went with this one. Each lamp has its own relay. Spaces 1 and 2 are the fogs, 3 is the dipped beam on the starboard side, 4 is the main beam on that side, 5 is dipped on the port side, and 6 is main on that side.

Fogs were simple: 10 gauge to the bus bar, to the relay, and to the lights. 16 gauge wire to/from the switch, because that's what I had. 90 watt bulbs in the fogs.

For the headlights, I ran 18 gauge wires from the original wiring to the relay box. When the stock switch goes on, it closes the relay. The bus bar powers the relay, and then I ran 10 gauge wire to the lights. H4 lamps were replaced with 100 watt main beam, 55 watt dipped beam.

I need to check my alternator to be sure: the data plate is "underneath", so I need a mirror, but I believe it's a 120 amp alternator. If not, I'll have to upgrade that.

Now I'm just waiting for it to get dark so I can check how they look. Only down side is I'm north of 46 degrees north latitude, so I'll need to stay up past my bed time to do that!

 

[Mirrajumper]

Now, here's a project I've been nibbling at for far too long... but now it's "job done".

Headlight and Fog Light relays.

I wish I was better at wiring. The connections are correct, and I'm getting a lot better at labeling things (heat shrink labels are very helpful), but I want to get "neater" at actually stringing the wires. Patience helps.

That said:
All wires/connectors are marine grade "Ancor" tinned stranded wire. Bus blocks are from Blue Sea Systems. I found a relay box on Amazon, I don't remember the company, but it's listed (and seems to be) waterproof.

I ran a 10 gauge wire to a bus block in the engine bay, accessible under the faux intake opposite the heater intake. My Defender is RHD, so it's on the right side. Next to the bus bar, I mounted the relay box, which holds six relays and six fuses. For the fog lights, I installed a new switch on the steering column (RN part number: PLE498). This switch is actually supposed to be for the rear fogs, but I have that next to the hazard and rear defogger switch, so I went with this one. Each lamp has its own relay. Spaces 1 and 2 are the fogs, 3 is the dipped beam on the starboard side, 4 is the main beam on that side, 5 is dipped on the port side, and 6 is main on that side.

Fogs were simple: 10 gauge to the bus bar, to the relay, and to the lights. 16 gauge wire to/from the switch, because that's what I had. 90 watt bulbs in the fogs.

For the headlights, I ran 18 gauge wires from the original wiring to the relay box. When the stock switch goes on, it closes the relay. The bus bar powers the relay, and then I ran 10 gauge wire to the lights. H4 lamps were replaced with 100 watt main beam, 55 watt dipped beam.

I need to check my alternator to be sure: the data plate is "underneath", so I need a mirror, but I believe it's a 120 amp alternator. If not, I'll have to upgrade that.

Now I'm just waiting for it to get dark so I can check how they look. Only down side is I'm north of 46 degrees north latitude, so I'll need to stay up past my bed time to do that!

Post pics!

 

[LazyRabbit]

Still have to address swivel preload and make sure front suspension is not giving issue, plus a few other minor issues.
But installing a new radio is more fun. Apple Car play and reverse camera for 60$

 

[John Z]

What radio is that?? That's cool looking

 

[WreckITFrank]

Now, here's a project I've been nibbling at for far too long... but now it's "job done".

Headlight and Fog Light relays.

I wish I was better at wiring. The connections are correct, and I'm getting a lot better at labeling things (heat shrink labels are very helpful), but I want to get "neater" at actually stringing the wires. Patience helps.

That said:
All wires/connectors are marine grade "Ancor" tinned stranded wire. Bus blocks are from Blue Sea Systems. I found a relay box on Amazon, I don't remember the company, but it's listed (and seems to be) waterproof.

I ran a 10 gauge wire to a bus block in the engine bay, accessible under the faux intake opposite the heater intake. My Defender is RHD, so it's on the right side. Next to the bus bar, I mounted the relay box, which holds six relays and six fuses. For the fog lights, I installed a new switch on the steering column (RN part number: PLE498). This switch is actually supposed to be for the rear fogs, but I have that next to the hazard and rear defogger switch, so I went with this one. Each lamp has its own relay. Spaces 1 and 2 are the fogs, 3 is the dipped beam on the starboard side, 4 is the main beam on that side, 5 is dipped on the port side, and 6 is main on that side.

Fogs were simple: 10 gauge to the bus bar, to the relay, and to the lights. 16 gauge wire to/from the switch, because that's what I had. 90 watt bulbs in the fogs.

For the headlights, I ran 18 gauge wires from the original wiring to the relay box. When the stock switch goes on, it closes the relay. The bus bar powers the relay, and then I ran 10 gauge wire to the lights. H4 lamps were replaced with 100 watt main beam, 55 watt dipped beam.

I need to check my alternator to be sure: the data plate is "underneath", so I need a mirror, but I believe it's a 120 amp alternator. If not, I'll have to upgrade that.

Now I'm just waiting for it to get dark so I can check how they look. Only down side is I'm north of 46 degrees north latitude, so I'll need to stay up past my bed time to do that!

I love wiring. Sounds like a proper setup. One observation, if reading correctly, is your busbar feed 10AWG? if so its way too small for comfort, especially if running halogens.

As @Mirrajumper said, send pics...