What have you done to your DEFENDER today?

[SARTech]

A while back my ignition failed. The switch would turn on the glow plugs but when you rotated it to start nothing happened. This happened while on a road trip,
I rigged up a remote stater button connected to the battery and the starter relay to get me home. I used this for a while until I had time to work on it.
Not wanting to pay for a new ignition switch I bought a push button starter switch. I had planned to install it in the center of the dash in the location of a unknown and unused switch. The rover is somewhat new to me. I have had it for 1 year.
I went to remove the unknown and unused switch (the one in the picture) and found that it still had wires attached to it. I thought I should follow the wires to find out what it was used for. I followed the wires right to the ignition switch??? That is when the light bulb in my head went off. I connected the original wire to the stater solenoid, tried the ignition, no joy, pressed the switch, tried the ignition and the motor cranked over.
Ha, the previous owner had installed a started cutout switch as anti-theft protection I assume.
Somewhere along the line I had pressed the switch and opened the crank circuit. Never take anything for granted.

 

[xplorutah]

My 110 had a remote switch as you describe. It had been to Africa and there was discussion that it was used to rock the vehicle when stuck in the dunes without having to start it.

 

[DJOHN]

Our rattling exhaust pipe had been getting worse, so I finally decided to do something about it. The source of the noise turned out to be a worn-out rubber bushing. The problematic part didn't look like any of the other exhaust hangers, but I wanted to get the vehicle back on the road, so I put together some galvanized hardware and a few skateboard bushings to support the pipe until I have a chance to figure out what Land Rover intended to be there and then order the correct parts.

 

[DJOHN]

I also installed a 5 lb. Amerex Halotron fire extinguisher behind the driver's seat. I'd installed a couple of smaller, conventional dry chemical units on day one, but I wouldn't want to use them on any vehicle that I care about. I had considered a CO2 extinguisher, but the lack of a pressure gauge on those models made me go with the Halotron clean agent.

 

[Napalm00]

I rebuilt my destroyed steering ball joint again. This time I tapped the baseplate for a metric zerk. If you ever noticed the bottom cup already has a hole in it for grease to pass through.

Seen here on the left below the gold plate.

I drilled and tapped for a M6 zerk, even the spring centers over the zerk.

One pump and the boot was full! Hope it will last longer now. If your ball joint and boot is in good shape you could probably do this in situ.

 

[The Dro]

Painted the tunnel and floor panels... (this is the first coat) I like the way it came out.

 

[FlyersFan76]

Painted the tunnel and floor panels... (this is the first coat) I like the way it came out.

Looks nice.

What product did you use?

I only did the underside of the tunnel cover after covering it with dynamat and primer. Want to do the floors and the front tunnel cover/adapter this winter also.

I as planning on don't linex inside in the future but still haven't fully decided yet.

 

[rovercolorado]

Looks nice.

What product did you use?

I only did the underside of the tunnel cover after covering it with dynamat and primer. Want to do the floors and the front tunnel cover/adapter this winter also.

I as planning on don't linex inside in the future but still haven't fully decided yet.

I noticed what I think is factory sound covering on the bulkhead on the outside (engine side) of my 1991. I was wondering if anyone has applied Dynamat or similar to the floors on the bottom or underside. I have seen multiple installations on the inside of the truck but wondered if it would hold up to the weather under the truck. I want to not install carpet on my floors and use only a rubber mat for easy cleanup. Other than some oil and engine gunk the bulkhead covering doesn't look in bad shape from what I've been able to see up close. The plan in the future is install all of the sound material under the truck and then move inside when I get to the doors, sides and roof. Does this sound like a good plan based on others experience?

 

[FlyersFan76]

I noticed what I think is factory sound covering on the bulkhead on the outside (engine side) of my 1991. I was wondering if anyone has applied Dynamat or similar to the floors on the bottom or underside. I have seen multiple installations on the inside of the truck but wondered if it would hold up to the weather under the truck. I want to not install carpet on my floors and use only a rubber mat for easy cleanup. Other than some oil and engine gunk the bulkhead covering doesn't look in bad shape from what I've been able to see up close. The plan in the future is install all of the sound material under the truck and then move inside when I get to the doors, sides and roof. Does this sound like a good plan based on others experience?

I had an email exchange with Dynamat and they said applying to the exterior of the truck is fine but it should be painted over since. I figured it was ok since their engine compartment material is outside in the elements.

I thought I had some pictures before I painted the seat box but can't find them.

I will probably do my floors this winter as well.

 

[uc4me]

installed a monitor and a side view camera for the Tithonus blind spot.

 

[javelinadave]

Changed out all the fluids this morning. Red Line MTL sure makes the trans shift smoother. Thanks all for the tip.
Next up is the front caliper rebuild.

 

[Napalm00]

Changed out all the fluids this morning. Red Line MTL sure makes the trans shift smoother. Thanks all for the tip.
Next up is the front caliper rebuild.

If you rebuilding your calipers two things I say are must. First is the addition of Russell speed bleeders, oh my god do they make it so much easier. Second would be the rebuild of your pwda valve if you have one just a few O-rings

 

[javelinadave]

Second would be the rebuild of your pwda valve if you have one just a few O-rings

I was just reading about this wonderful piece of useless engineering. Most people say to just eliminate it all together. As I hate plumbing projects and would rather swap in a few o rings. Did you get them from NAPA or is there a part number for a kit?

 

[Napalm00]

http://www.defendersource.com/forum/f6/fyi-pwda-valve-116281.html

How timely!

Tldr; two sae sized #110 orings and one slightly larger. I just used my hf sae oring kit.



Eliminating would be just as easy as removing it for repair. Take it off and replace with two bubble flare unions.

 

[nas90tdi]

Buy a vacuum bleeder, screw all that pumping a pedal business. It will cost you about the same as replacing all the bleeder screws and you can actually watch what is going on. And not spread air through your whole system.

https://www.motiveproducts.com/coll...eeder-kits-power-bleeders-import-bleeder-kits

 

[javelinadave]

I have a Motive Products power bleeder. It works awesome and it is definitely a one person job.

 

[LostChord]

Tiny little pin? broke off from interior passenger front door handle where the spring is. So, could no longer open the door from the inside.

Macguyvered it for now with a picture nail to hold the release arm as a makeshift cotter pin. Couldn't find anything smaller in the garage.

On a positive note, very surprised by the total lack of rust on the door frame once I removed the door card. Only two of the door card screws were difficult, but eventually came out. Behind the door card was the broken pin and a couple small pieces of felt from the window channels. Also had some sort of moisture barrier behind the door card - plastic bag-like material - glued to the top and sides of the door frame and duck-taped to the bottom. Sweet.

 

[LostChord]

Tiny little pin? broke off from interior passenger front door handle where the spring is. So, could no longer open the door from the inside.

Macguyvered it for now with a picture nail to hold the release arm as a makeshift cotter pin. Couldn't find anything smaller in the garage.

For future reference, the entire latch assembly is PN MUC3656 (# 6 below).

The pin that broke was on the end of the rod that runs through the spring - circled in yellow:

 

[The Dro]

Just installed this on the floor panels I recently painted....

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0089FMXN0/

According to them it's resistant to ageing, ozone, oil, acid and weathering.

 

[The Dro]

Busy weekend... After work yesterday I got cracking with the truck and got the rear tire carrier installed and got the new fuse boxes installed.

It's not what I was looking for... But it sure beats the POS Lucas fuses.