Drago the D110 - 1991 200tdi Hardtop

Frenglish

Active member
Beautiful landy. Can I ask which part numbers from bearmach you used for the rear window sliders? The old ones you had are almost all out of production or priced into the nearest galaxy, would love to know what bearmach have as the standard wagon sides don’t fit.
 

Bellinghammer

Well-known member
Beautiful landy. Can I ask which part numbers from bearmach you used for the rear window sliders? The old ones you had are almost all out of production or priced into the nearest galaxy, would love to know what bearmach have as the standard wagon sides don’t fit.

Thanks! We installed the BA182A

I need to clean the stock ones up and see if anyone needs them.

Cheers!
 

Frenglish

Active member
Thanks! We installed the BA182A

I need to clean the stock ones up and see if anyone needs them.

Cheers!
Thank you so much! Such a life saver to know theres a decent option for this! Not to threadjack, the windows you had are probably handed Left and right, they fit the same as the back of the pickup cabs rear center window, but when used like it is on your (or my) landy it was known as the Africa Spec windows on the ROW Spec 110's. at over $500/ per window, its a bit crazy. Xplore Glazing out of the netherlands also has some good options to replace these, but this looks more factory maybe. Thank you for sharing that part number.

The PN'S for your original windows are
Window PN's (RH is cab part, LH is out of production)

1983-2007
RH: ZXC9386
LH: ZXC9387
Then uprevisioned to:
RH: ALR5080
LH: ALR5081

2007+
RH: CPB500840
LH: CPB500850
Then uprevisioned to:
RH: LR044315
LH: LR044316

MTC6232 window finisher
 

skota

Member
Very cool truck!!! Just went through each page and it was a little funny to be like "that grill and light surrounds need to go", your next post is new grill and surrounds. This happened a few times
 

Bellinghammer

Well-known member
Very cool truck!!! Just went through each page and it was a little funny to be like "that grill and light surrounds need to go", your next post is new grill and surrounds. This happened a few times
Thanks for the compliments on Drago!
 

Bellinghammer

Well-known member
I was posting in the “What have you done to your Defender lately“ thread and realized that I hadn’t updated my thread in quite a while. I’ll start with duplicating my post from that threat.

After all the work we did to the rear of our 110 to quiet things down, I realized that portions of the bulkhead remain untouched even with our Exmoor matting.
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We bought a couple of boxes of Noico Black and went to town. We popped out the matting and applied a layer to everything in the front. I finished things off by applying black vinyl over the exposed Noico.
AD7E9AB0-E5AF-4782-89FF-B373FCD2CE15.jpeg



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8D793287-D5E4-47D1-A381-7B528289607A.jpeg
 
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rocky

Well-known member
Liking the use of black vinyl. It’s a solution I hadn’t thought of before.
If the Noico black is like dynamat, then the benefits are huge and well worth the investment.
 

Bellinghammer

Well-known member
How significant would you say the results of the lizardskin, noico and exmoor matting?
The first round made a huge difference. After the initial work, at 60 mph we reading 78db in the drivers cabin. I haven’t tested the results of this round yet, but I’ll report back.
 

Bellinghammer

Well-known member
Liking the use of black vinyl. It’s a solution I hadn’t thought of before.
If the Noico black is like dynamat, then the benefits are huge and well worth the investment.
Yeah, Noico is a butyl based product, similar to Dynamat. I have a bud that is an auto fabricator that recommended it to me.

I had some black vinyl left over from another project, so I figured I’d give it a shot. Not going to be high wearing, but a palatable finish that wipes down easily. The best part is it seemed to dampen those areas even more (when knocking on them). I’m 80% happy with my installation of the vinyl, but I it looks considerably better than when I started.
 

Uncle Douglas

Well-known member
Callsign: delete
We remove the floor plates and use noico or dynamat (thicker) on the underside of the floor plates and then reinstall. Looks stock & the floor and tunnel fastener screws are still accessible and those parts are still easily removable for repairs/service.
 
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lcdck

Well-known member
We remove the floor plates and use noico or dynamat (thicker) on the underside of the floor plates and then reinstall. Looks stock & the floor and tunnel fastener screws are still accessible and those parts are still easily removable for repairs/service.
This is how my truck came, with dynamat installed underside of floors. It also has it on the engine bay side of the bulkhead but some had to go during an engine install.
 

Bellinghammer

Well-known member
We remove the floor plates and use noico or dynamat (thicker) on the underside of the floor plates and then reinstall. Looks stock & the floor and tunnel fastener screws are still accessible and those parts are still easily removable for repairs/service.
Great tip Doug. I am aware of the fun that I’ll have when it comes time for a major service. I‘ll go that route when the time comes.

That aside, the dampening work made a considerable difference in cabin comfort, especially when highway driving.
 

bboretsky

Well-known member
FYI. It appears that you have leaf springs under the Defender. If it does, it is technically a land Rover Santana 3500. I have a 81 Santana 2500. You can also verify that the center to center spacing is 109 whick is the same as the series 3 chassis. I love mine and am in the process of replacing the 12j diesel with the GM 250 online 6.
 

Tbaumer

Technical Excellence Contributor
If I'm not mistaken, Post #26 shows coils.
(bboretsky, watching your progress with the 250 inline 6 - sounds like you are getting close! (y))
 
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