Defender rear clunk- going after it

WK2Burner

Well-known member
Why would someone choose the adjustable option? Is the ultra adjustable, 45 degee, and greasable? thanks
 

def90

Member
Question for the castle bolt. I torqued it down but I figured I would drive around a bit and re-torque to make sure it’s seated properly. Then Insert the pin. Does that sound correct?
 

RBBailey

Well-known member
Callsign: KF7KFZ
Well, I had my wife stand on the rear NAS bumper which is a very small shelf, and *jump* up and down. It took everything she had....

That's how I discovered I had only finger tightened the A-arm nut and forgot the cotter pin. Ooops.
That's how I figured out just how bad the anti-roll bar was. Had been content to let it be bad, but it was the source of one of my clunks, so....

https://flic.kr/p/PhR41B
 

Motorradmark

Well-known member
Replaced the a frame pivot, was very simple and all the bolts cooperated. Good use of anti seize previously.
Checked the hub and the drive flanges were also worn significantly. I know that also contributed to the clunk and appeared close to letting go. Good inch or so of slop. Axle splines looked good, so replacement flanges inbound and then we will see how it sounds. A frame pivot was worn, so that was good call. Thanks!
 

javelinadave

Administrator
Staff member
Just finished mine and the clunk is gone. I had zero rust issues and have a bitchin set of air tools so it was super easy.
Here are a few tips:
Use an air chisel to unseat the ball joint.
Install the two long bolts first and then raise the body with a floor jack till the new ball joint drops into place.
A swivel for the 30mm socket makes removing and reinstalling the castle nut easier.
Use anti seize on the long bolts unless you want to punish the next person to do this job.
 
Last edited:
Top