WreckITFrank
Technical Excellence Contributor
Why would someone choose the adjustable option? Is the ultra adjustable, 45 degee, and greasable? thanks
Defender rear clunk- going after it
- Thread starter Motorradmark
- Start date
the adjustment is to take up wear
That's how I figured out just how bad the anti-roll bar was. Had been content to let it be bad, but it was the source of one of my clunks, so....
Replaced the a frame pivot, was very simple and all the bolts cooperated. Good use of anti seize previously.
Checked the hub and the drive flanges were also worn significantly. I know that also contributed to the clunk and appeared close to letting go. Good inch or so of slop. Axle splines looked good, so replacement flanges inbound and then we will see how it sounds. A frame pivot was worn, so that was good call. Thanks!
Checked the hub and the drive flanges were also worn significantly. I know that also contributed to the clunk and appeared close to letting go. Good inch or so of slop. Axle splines looked good, so replacement flanges inbound and then we will see how it sounds. A frame pivot was worn, so that was good call. Thanks!
Just finished mine and the clunk is gone. I had zero rust issues and have a bitchin set of air tools so it was super easy.
Here are a few tips:
Use an air chisel to unseat the ball joint.
Install the two long bolts first and then raise the body with a floor jack till the new ball joint drops into place.
A swivel for the 30mm socket makes removing and reinstalling the castle nut easier.
Use anti seize on the long bolts unless you want to punish the next person to do this job.
Here are a few tips:
Use an air chisel to unseat the ball joint.
Install the two long bolts first and then raise the body with a floor jack till the new ball joint drops into place.
A swivel for the 30mm socket makes removing and reinstalling the castle nut easier.
Use anti seize on the long bolts unless you want to punish the next person to do this job.
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