Defender rear clunk- going after it

Motorradmark

Well-known member
On my 85 LR110, tackling the rear clunk.
Salisbury rear end.
Have looked at a frame and don’t think that’s is it.
Next.

Pulling hub flanges and axle shafts to inspect condition of splines.
Also pulling rear diff to inspect and test off vehicle, to determine if slop is hub-spline or axle-diff intersection, or worse, in dif.
Will also take opportunity to inspect prop shaft u joints, but they seem ok on wiggle inspection.

Should need arise, what is good source for new axle shafts?
Have looked at RN and they have both proline ($) and LR ($$$).
Recommendations welcome.

Also, what is recommendation on drive flanges- stick with ome style or upgrde to the RN heavy duty with screw on dust cap?

Thanks
Mark
 

NPT90

Well-known member
I'd look at the trailing arm bushings and the A-frame bushings as solid contenders for a clunk in the rear end.

If any of those are worn or have play you are going to get a pretty noticeable thud as the axle repositions itself on either swing.
 

CDN38

Well-known member

Motorradmark

Well-known member
If you end up looking for hub flanges (pretty good bet that you will be) I have been running the KAM HD flanges for 5 years, very happy with them. LR Direct carries them https://www.lrdirect.com/KAM101-KAM-HEAVY-DUTY-DRIVE-FLANGE-T/ as well as Craddocks https://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/range-rover/range-rover-classic/parts/axles-and-transmission/kam101-kam-heavy-duty-drive-flange-narrow-type-90110130d1rrc-ftc859-ruc105200.html

View attachment 7688
Thanks. Am looking hard at a frame bush again.
 

Red90

Well-known member
Haven't been following inching on KAM. What happened to them?
Allmakes bought them out and then got rid of any of the employees that knew anything. Eventually they closed the company down and continue to use the name, but the company and its employees do not exist anymore. Nobody knows where they get the parts made, but I would not rely on them being made properly.
 

4RF RDS

Well-known member
Go inexpensive and TIG weld the flanges to the half shaft. I did it on mine and all clunks went away. New shafts and new flanges changed nothing.
 
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chris snell

Administrator
Callsign: NW5W
Staff member
Allmakes bought them out and then got rid of any of the employees that knew anything. Eventually they closed the company down and continue to use the name, but the company and its employees do not exist anymore. Nobody knows where they get the parts made, but I would not rely on them being made properly.
This is 100% true. I ordered some rear drum brake halfshafts and they were too short. I don't know if they etched the wrong part numbers on them or just cut them wrong but they didn't fit and never answered any emails. Fuck Allmakes.

Back to the original post, I would bet money on trailing arm bushes or the a-arm (which you might not be able to diagnose by shaking with your hand.
 

chris snell

Administrator
Callsign: NW5W
Staff member
A lot of times you can shake them and feel play even without putting the truck on a lift. This is a very common issue. If it is the bushings, do yourself a favor and replace with Genuines or go poly. Never use Allmakes, Britpart, etc.
 

RBBailey

Well-known member
Callsign: KF7KFZ
I was adjusting rear brakes today, getting rid of drips, and such. While under there, I noticed that HOLY COW, all four bolts for the prop shaft to the parking brake were loose! I was actually checking for play (thinking of this thread, and clunks to be heard) and thought the u-joint was shot, but it was actually loose enough to turn the prop and see it move back and forth on the face of the brake drum.... I'm not sure if this was what I have been hearing, tomorrow's drive will tell, but one way or another, I'm glad I found it.
 

Napalm00

Well-known member
I was adjusting rear brakes today, getting rid of drips, and such. While under there, I noticed that HOLY COW, all four bolts for the prop shaft to the parking brake were loose! I was actually checking for play (thinking of this thread, and clunks to be heard) and thought the u-joint was shot, but it was actually loose enough to turn the prop and see it move back and forth on the face of the brake drum.... I'm not sure if this was what I have been hearing, tomorrow's drive will tell, but one way or another, I'm glad I found it.
Kind of scary.

technically I believe Land Rover specs these bolts and nuts to replaced every single time you take the drive shaft off. I just thread lock them
 

Motorradmark

Well-known member
A lot of times you can shake them and feel play even without putting the truck on a lift. This is a very common issue. If it is the bushings, do yourself a favor and replace with Genuines or go poly. Never use Allmakes, Britpart, etc.
Will give them a shake. I have relatively new polybush on them. My replacement a frame pivot arrived today - thanks, Lav.
Hopefully this will quiet things down.
Much thanks for all the advice. Living, learning and busting my knuckles.
 

Jeff B

Well-known member
Chris
How would you check trailing arm bush?
Well, I had my wife stand on the rear NAS bumper which is a very small shelf, and *jump* up and down. It took everything she had....

That's how I discovered I had only finger tightened the A-arm nut and forgot the cotter pin. Ooops.


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