Defender rear clunk- going after it

javelinadave

Administrator
Staff member
I just slid underneath my truck with the parking brake set as my buddy pushed and pulled it forward and back. I could see I need to replace the A frame ball joint. #sourceofmyclunk
I ordered this:
https://www.lrdirect.com/DA1129G-supplied-by-BRITPART-branded-OEM.html

DA1129G.jpg

And this:
https://www.lrdirect.com/DA1129KIT-supplied-by-BRITPART-branded-BRITPART.html

DA1129KIT.jpg

Talking to @Napalm00, he says it is a PITA to press out the bushing even with a big press so I ordered the ready made assembly. I also spent the extra money to get the genuine LR bushing.
 

Jeff B

Well-known member
I just slid underneath my truck with the parking brake set as my buddy pushed and pulled it forward and back. I could see I need to replace the A frame ball joint. #sourceofmyclunk
I ordered this:
https://www.lrdirect.com/DA1129G-supplied-by-BRITPART-branded-OEM.html

View attachment 7749

And this:
https://www.lrdirect.com/DA1129KIT-supplied-by-BRITPART-branded-BRITPART.html

View attachment 7750

Talking to @Napalm00, he says it is a PITA to press out the bushing even with a big press so I ordered the ready made assembly. I also spent the extra money to get the genuine LR bushing.
Yup
I did it once with just the joint... second time with the whole assembly.
I recommend the whole assembly and yes, its a great idea to have new bolts ready.


.
 

Red90

Well-known member
Might as well replace the chassis end bushings and bolts on the A frame while you are there.
 

RiftRover

Well-known member
I just slid underneath my truck with the parking brake set as my buddy pushed and pulled it forward and back. I could see I need to replace the A frame ball joint. #sourceofmyclunk
I ordered this:
https://www.lrdirect.com/DA1129G-supplied-by-BRITPART-branded-OEM.html

View attachment 7749

And this:
https://www.lrdirect.com/DA1129KIT-supplied-by-BRITPART-branded-BRITPART.html

View attachment 7750

Talking to @Napalm00, he says it is a PITA to press out the bushing even with a big press so I ordered the ready made assembly. I also spent the extra money to get the genuine LR bushing.
I had the clunk on my old 110 and it turned out the A-frame ball joint was so worn it was almost able to pop out of the socket. Replacing it completely eliminated the clunk.
 

Uncle Douglas

Well-known member
Well, I had my wife stand on the rear NAS bumper which is a very small shelf, and *jump* up and down. It took everything she had....

That's how I discovered I had only finger tightened the A-arm nut and forgot the cotter pin. Ooops.


.
Does Jennifer even weigh 100 lbs ?
 

Jeff B

Well-known member
Does Jennifer even weigh 100 lbs ?
Ha!

I have to answer carefully....yes, she is over 100lbs. Slightly.

But what really helped in the clunk diagnosis was her ability to rhythmically load and unload the suspension. :)
Once she got going, I was able to pinpoint the A-arm slop...


.
 

Uncle Douglas

Well-known member
I just slid underneath my truck with the parking brake set as my buddy pushed and pulled it forward and back. I could see I need to replace the A frame ball joint. #sourceofmyclunk
I ordered this:
https://www.lrdirect.com/DA1129G-supplied-by-BRITPART-branded-OEM.html

View attachment 7749

And this:
https://www.lrdirect.com/DA1129KIT-supplied-by-BRITPART-branded-BRITPART.html

View attachment 7750

Talking to @Napalm00, he says it is a PITA to press out the bushing even with a big press so I ordered the ready made assembly. I also spent the extra money to get the genuine LR bushing.
slather lots of antisieze on the through bolts.
 

Jeff B

Well-known member
slather lots of antisieze on the through bolts.
^^ this ^^

Can't be stressed enough.
Generally, the nuts come right off and you think it'll be easy.
Untill you realize the entire bolt is Connecticut-welded inside the assembly and requires multiple soakings/heatings/poundings to free it.


.
 

NPT90

Well-known member
Well, I had my wife stand on the rear NAS bumper which is a very small shelf, and *jump* up and down. It took everything she had....

That's how I discovered I had only finger tightened the A-arm nut and forgot the cotter pin. Ooops.


.
whoops hahaha, I just found my oil cooler line was loose while chasing down a steering problem the other day. Guess that's where all the oil was dumping from :whistle:
 

def90

Member
I just installed a new fulcrum today. As mentioned above all nuts were easy to remove One bolt came out easy using an impact driver. The other one I had to saw off the bolt head and remove it that way. It was an easy job until I had to get out the saw. I used a hacksaw would have been much easier if I had a demo saw. It has made a huge difference on the way my truck drives. So much tighter. Everyone should do it if they still have the oe in.
588EE307-90EF-4C20-B764-9799EABDF1B3.jpeg
 

jymmiejamz

Founding Member
Callsign: KN4JHI
For anyone doing this job... If you are struggling with the ball joint nut and have an air hammer, it works really well to back the nut off. Mine was really rusty and came right off with an air hammer.
 

def90

Member
For anyone doing this job... If you are struggling with the ball joint nut and have an air hammer, it works really well to back the nut off. Mine was really rusty and came right off with an air hammer.
The nut is 30mm I used a 1 3/16 socket with extension and a breaker bar. It was pretty easy without jacking the truck up.
 
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