Cummins Repower ISF 2.8 for Defenders

The Dro

Illustrious
The 90 day warranty starting from the time delivered to its new owner isn't long enough in my book. Especially as Cummins defines delivery as the moment the engine is placed on the common carriers truck at their warehouse.
Yes it's FOB their factory. So get insurance on the shipment to protect you against damage.
I agree... other crate engines comes with 12 months warranty.
 

Shaddrach

Member
Of all states, I wouldn't think Texas would be an issue.
Bummer for sure

Probably has to do with the engine not being sold through a dealer network and being a direct to consumer deal, which Texas is very strict about thanks to the auto dealer unions...same reason you can’t officially buy a Tesla here, at least, not without doing some clever workarounds.
 

rlynch356

Well-known member
Checked them out at expo east... lot old and sounds sweet.. just need to figure out the manual parts of the equation and how it gets done..
 

chris snell

Administrator
Callsign: NW5W
Staff member
A little thread drift here, but it?s interesting to see what?s happening in the diesel world. Anything that allows diesel to be simpler yet meet emissions has to be good.
https://www.equipmentworld.com/good...chnology-and-a-mod-free-one-world-capability/

That's fantastic news. No more EGR and more horsepower and torque. Diesel engines are really catching up and the reliability+power on these emissions-controlled motors are finally matching or exceeding their pre-emissions predecessors.

I wonder how long it will take to get these new Cummins engines into U.S. production vehicles.
 

OverlndPros

New member
I am seriously considering buying this for my 1991 Santana Series IV. It has a meager 2.5L NA diesel and needs a real engine. I see it as a better option to a reconditioned 200/300tdi with much more potential. A simple remap boosts it to 200hp and 300ft lbs.

I debating about 5 speed NV 3500,4000 or 6l80e.

I will be putting in an RRC front axle and Salisbury rear with HD axles and lockers and coil-overs. The Spanish stuff is just a bit different and finding parts has been a challenge. My frame and body are in great condition.
 

SARTech

Well-known member
I am seriously considering buying this for my 1991 Santana Series IV. It has a meager 2.5L NA diesel and needs a real engine. I see it as a better option to a reconditioned 200/300tdi with much more potential. A simple remap boosts it to 200hp and 300ft lbs.

I debating about 5 speed NV 3500,4000 or 6l80e.

I will be putting in an RRC front axle and Salisbury rear with HD axles and lockers and coil-overs. The Spanish stuff is just a bit different and finding parts has been a challenge. My frame and body are in great condition.

OverlndPros, Not wanting to start an argument, just curious. Why do you think it's a better option than a reconditioned 200/300tdi? I ask because I'm looking down the road and know that I will need a re-power for my 1989 D90 ROW with 19J. Im a big cummins fan, way back when the 4BT came out I was a diesel mechanic and I done several re-powers using that motor in over the road delivery trucks. I own a Dodge p/u with a 24V Cummins. I was excited about this ISF 2.8 until I saw that it was EGR equipped and computer controlled, plus the price tag. So now Im considering a 300 tdi because of availability, simplicity, and cost. Just asking. Thanks.
 

Mack

Well-known member
Not wanting to start an argument, just curious. Why do you think it's a better option than a reconditioned 200/300tdi?

My opinion is, that a reman 200/300 with all ancillaries (as jymmiejamz pointed out) is not exactly cheap. I?m all for simplicity, but what?s so bad about being computer controlled. It?s still waterproof, and the computer will tell you what the issue is if there?s a problem. The Cummins will be smoother, quieter, and more powerful than the Rover engine. Having daily driven a 200tdi for about four years, those three improvements would make the decision between the two very easy for me.
 

chris snell

Administrator
Callsign: NW5W
Staff member
My opinion is, that a reman 200/300 with all ancillaries (as jymmiejamz pointed out) is not exactly cheap. I?m all for simplicity, but what?s so bad about being computer controlled. It?s still waterproof, and the computer will tell you what the issue is if there?s a problem. The Cummins will be smoother, quieter, and more powerful than the Rover engine. Having daily driven a 200tdi for about four years, those three improvements would make the decision between the two very easy for me.


Exactly.


Had this been available when I did my conversion, I would have gone this route. It would have been more expensive but given the benefits of the Cummins platform, I think it would have been worth it.
 

SARTech

Well-known member
I?m all for simplicity, but what?s so bad about being computer controlled. It?s still waterproof, and the computer will tell you what the issue is if there?s a problem. The Cummins will be smoother, quieter, and more powerful than the Rover engine..

My concern about being computer controlled is maybe based on ignorance of how the ISF 2.8 will operate but my past experience with cars and computer controllers has not been pleasant. For example I currently have a 2003 Chevy Suburban, it has a Body Control Module that manages everything except the motor and transmission. Its bad, doors don't lock, radio doesn't work, temp and compass on rearview don't work . I can not simply replace it, I have to purchase a new one and then get the dealer to program it, getting the dealer involved results in lots of dollars. I tried doing it on my own, a new un-programed unit will not let the motor start. Will that be the case with this new motor, some small component of the computer such as water temp fails and you have to have Cummins program a new computer costing a lot more? Maybe Ill come around to the idea after they have been in service for a while. You are certainly correct about being smoother, the Land Rover engines are sure rough.
 

modernbeat

Active member
...For example I currently have a 2003 Chevy Suburban, it has a Body Control Module that manages everything except the motor and transmission. ... I can not simply replace it, I have to purchase a new one and then get the dealer to program it, getting the dealer involved results in lots of dollars...

Have you seen a dealer for the price? It may not be as bad as you think.

And my experience with computer controlled vehicles has been the opposite, including two GMT-800 trucks, a 2002 2500HD with an Allison and 8.1L, and a 2500 with the 4L80e and 6.0L. The 6.0L had an electrical glitch that the radio would not turn on if it was not on when the truck was started. It went 250k miles before it was stolen during an elk hunt. The 8.1L has 300k+ miles, and I'm about to leave for another 8k mile trip. The electrics have been troublefree, though the engine started using a little oil after 200k miles.

Both trucks were bone stock except tires, speakers and a module that allowed aux input to the stock radio. I finally put a set of OEM 17" wheels on the 8.1L truck so I could use a 34x10.5-17 tire on it.

I build a lot of racecars, and a few LSx swaps. I deal with electrical modules of all sorts, OEM and aftermarket. With few exceptions I see nearly flawless performance from OEM ECM/BCM/TCM modules unless they have been unsympathetically treated. I would not hesitate to use an electrically controlled vehicle for sport or daily use.
 

JimC

Super Moderator
Staff member
I look at the computer control as a plus really. I actually do want the emissions dialed down as low as possible, and having a stand-alone ECU is basically ideal. No body control units, lighting modules, courtesy computers, or anything - just a engine-only module that you install where you want and which remains isolated from other vehicle functions.
 

jymmiejamz

Founding Member
Callsign: KN4JHI
In my experience engine control modules are very reliable. I think the only reason ive replaced them is for water ingress or vehicles being jump started with the jump leads reversed.
 

Overlander

Well-known member
Callsign: KM4BOR
I look at the computer control as a plus really. I actually do want the emissions dialed down as low as possible, and having a stand-alone ECU is basically ideal. No body control units, lighting modules, courtesy computers, or anything - just a engine-only module that you install where you want and which remains isolated from other vehicle functions.

X2. I'm all in. Just engine. Never having to deal with timing and IP again. I will keep a spares kit with an ECU and the few engine sensors, which can fit in a very small box. Compared to the tools and spares required to carry on TDI, it's nothing.

My goal is a massive reduction in "Bonnet Up" hours per mile traveled.
 

RDavisinVA

Technical Excellence Contributor
Saw this setup at UDs shop yesterday.
UD has it all together and ready to start making motor mounts.
 

Overlander

Well-known member
Callsign: KM4BOR
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BymWrPIrAN65NDl1YWZWamMxaDg

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B...ogle.com/open?id=0BymWrPIrAN65cDA1U3JvWVdERjg

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BymWrPIrAN65dWNLd0h0TE9oQmM


Motor in, lined up, trans in place. Mounts welded and in place with isolation. Used Axis motor mounts with a mod LR OEM
Lined up great with NV3550 (200tdi/lt77 )

316548.jpg
 
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