1991 200TDI to R2.8--couple remaining questions

MountainD

Technical Excellence Contributor
That’s the one I have. It get used almost daily. It comes with a little valve to regulate the pressure which I don’t use. Not using it caused me to bend the 4mm piece. Other than that, no issues. If it broke today, I would buy the same one. I’ve installed hundreds of nutserts with it.
I'll put it on the list. I think behind the tig, but it is on the list. Took another garage break--fixed the hole in the top--just patched it. They pounded on the fender well in several places and those places rusted--they may have heated them before pounding...so when the torch hits those areas they just burn through immediately. I could replace that entire area but it is a rather formed area---I will plan to replace the full skirt at some point when I nice set pops into my world.
You can see the hole under the filler--the second shock top came through that from the dual shock absorber mount it had...
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The best thing you can do is cut out 100% of the rust and weld from there. You can see the rust on the contour below the gap. It will be good for now but the inner is going on the list to replace. There are just too many contours to do by hand and I have some time to wait to find a pair...
Whenever patching, always have as small gaps as possible (except for those very thick multipass situations where you would leave a bevel...). This would have gone smoother if I didn't hit a ton of degraded areas. For now it is just fine. Just need to pick up some more cold galv paint...can't find mine and heck, it may have been gone...
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And PSA--this is galvanized metal. The zinc coating is toxic when welded (for those that don't know but should). It is VERY bad to inhale so vent your garage or wherever and use a respirator specific for this when you weld.

Also found the home for the Transmission cooler.
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I'll make some heat deflection/air plates, particularly above the exhaust, and some additional sound deadening. I don't think it will be too bad but if it is, I will move it. Part of the ease of -AN connections and making my own hose lengths.
 
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dkemm

Well-known member
I'll put it on the list. I think behind the tig, but it is on the list. Took another garage break--fixed the hole in the top--just patched it. They pounded on the fender well in several places and those places rusted--they may have heated them before pounding...so when the torch hits those areas they just burn through immediately. I could replace that entire area but it is a rather formed area---I will plan to replace the full skirt at some point when I nice set pops into my world.
You can see the hole under the filler--the second shock top came through that from the dual shock absorber mount it had...
View attachment 22160
The best thing you can do is cut out 100% of the rust and weld from there. You can see the rust on the contour below the gap. It will be good for now but the inner is going on the list to replace. There are just too many contours to do by hand and I have some time to wait to find a pair...
Whenever patching, always have as small gaps as possible (except for those very thick multipass situations where you would leave a bevel...). This would have gone smoother if I didn't hit a ton of degraded areas. For now it is just fine. Just need to pick up some more cold galv paint...can't find mine and heck, it may have been gone...
View attachment 22161
And PSA--this is galvanized metal. The zinc coating is toxic when welded (for those that don't know but should). It is VERY bad to inhale so vent your garage or wherever and use a respirator specific for this when you weld.

Also found the home for the Transmission cooler.
View attachment 22162View attachment 22163
I'll make some heat deflection/air plates, particularly above the exhaust, and some additional sound deadening. I don't think it will be too bad but if it is, I will move it. Part of the ease of -AN
I'll put it on the list. I think behind the tig, but it is on the list. Took another garage break--fixed the hole in the top--just patched it. They pounded on the fender well in several places and those places rusted--they may have heated them before pounding...so when the torch hits those areas they just burn through immediately. I could replace that entire area but it is a rather formed area---I will plan to replace the full skirt at some point when I nice set pops into my world.
You can see the hole under the filler--the second shock top came through that from the dual shock absorber mount it had...
View attachment 22160
The best thing you can do is cut out 100% of the rust and weld from there. You can see the rust on the contour below the gap. It will be good for now but the inner is going on the list to replace. There are just too many contours to do by hand and I have some time to wait to find a pair...
Whenever patching, always have as small gaps as possible (except for those very thick multipass situations where you would leave a bevel...). This would have gone smoother if I didn't hit a ton of degraded areas. For now it is just fine. Just need to pick up some more cold galv paint...can't find mine and heck, it may have been gone...
View attachment 22161
And PSA--this is galvanized metal. The zinc coating is toxic when welded (for those that don't know but should). It is VERY bad to inhale so vent your garage or wherever and use a respirator specific for this when you weld.

Also found the home for the Transmission cooler.
View attachment 22162View attachment 22163
I'll make some heat deflection/air plates, particularly above the exhaust, and some additional sound deadening. I don't think it will be too bad but if it is, I will move it. Part of the ease of -AN connections and making my own hose lengths.
That is a SWEET looking Tranny cooler!

connections and making my own hose lengths.
 

MountainD

Technical Excellence Contributor
Definitely slow moving, but that doesn't mean inactive. I am waiting on several parts that are back ordered but some have been arriving. Still no intercooler so that is still "coming" someday... as well as the oil pan (waiting...). That said, I have been working on the electrical system topography as well as figuring out the accessories mounting such as the Webasto coolant heater, the Hotshot hot windshield fluid squirter, the various reservoirs and such but mainly just the wiring schematics to install. Best to get a game plan before jumping into wiring....

However the bigger news is the bulkhead footwell clearance. I mentioned the engine barely fit in there but the tightness really bothered me. It barely rubbed on the sound insulation but one of the things was the PLASTIC fuel hose for the return and the other was the starter. Also, the mounting corner of the exhaust 90 degree output flange on passengers side. I can't live with that. Plus on start-up when the engine rotates a bit, I am sure it would clunk somewhere and that I can't live with either. I mean it was TIGHT! You can see the starter right on the sound insulation (that is about 3/8" thick closed cell foil backed foam on top of press-n-seal butyl layer).
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So....Out it came. I shouldn't have ever considered it "in" before (mentally)---I should have just considered it the final mock-up, lol. I relaxed the bulkhead sides--I drilled out the passenger side spot welds for the affected area and used a big-ass hammer to relax it a bit, then followed with a ton of body hammer work, some tack welds, more hammering, more welds and then a little sanding and painting before I seam seal it and put on the acoustics. The drivers side I was able to relax into shape that works with the big hammer. Hated to redo it, but do it right or don't do it and rubbing is not OK... Plus now it gives me another option on the DOC. This is the before/after of the passenger footwell:
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You can see the distance from the right hole (hood release)--I pulled it in about an inch+. I have a new TD5 hood release to use anyways so I don't need that hole as I am moving it. The big hole is for the AC...
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You can barely tell. I wasn't over concerned on the appearance for two reasons. One is that it is all being covered in acoustic sound deadening. The other is that I log my changes to do on my "spare" bulkhead as eventually I will mod that one to suit and then galvanize it (as well as the frame and the other steel) but that is in the long term. Nothing noteworthy to show on the drivers side... just relaxed it by the drivers pedal...

I also installed the remote throttle position kit so I can use my stock pedal. I had to remove the heater hose, but frankly, I didn't like all the joints that they were doing--I found a more graceful routing. It is all the blue silicone tubes you see. I also don't like the blue so I got some 5/8" HPS Silicone heater hose to redo it. Once I finish the hose routing, I will show that a little more clearly. What I like about the Quickdraw TPS kit is that there are different holes in the cam so technically I can reduce or expand the rate of throttle to tps depending on the throw of the pedal...which is nice.
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I also need to commit on the location of the bulkhead connector for the harness and where to go through the bulkhead. I have thoughts so more on that soon....
 

MountainD

Technical Excellence Contributor
ok, first things first. The entire harness? Jesus. Stupid. Outer plastic shell (not split loom), totally sucks. To shorten you either need to remove connectors the replace or cut and resolder but have to beware as there are internal splices. Plus, the plastic doesn’t make tight corners. I want to redo everything but the splices and potential resistance changes at new splices could be an (unlikely) issue… and I don’t want to use any of it so I’m gonna leave that for retirement next decade. Stupid Chinese design for a crate engine, cheap@sses. So for harness I’m gonna bundle it all in fender and just feed OBD through oval plug by fuse box, and Murphy gauge and ignition/gauge inputs through behind dash/binnacle. It could be SOOO much smaller and use fabric wire harness tape. Off soap box.

loads of little important things. Hose routing. With the TPS, it had to change. The bottom of the air intake Elbow is a large, smooth radius so I toured hose under that from heater return and brought it up to heater pipe mounted on engine that runs behind engine. Much better bit and eliminates a secondary pipe and two leak potential connections. Great. But what to do with feed to heater as TPS is in the way. I’m running the heater hose off the pipe using 12AN twin hose separators. Since the heater tube is the inside diameter of silicone hose, I just made spacer sleeves out of the hose and separated the hose from the pipe.
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when I get my touch up paint I’ll spray them the Cummins Apex red.
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donb

Well-known member
ok, first things first. The entire harness? Jesus. Stupid. Outer plastic shell (not split loom), totally sucks. To shorten you either need to remove connectors the replace or cut and resolder but have to beware as there are internal splices. Plus, the plastic doesn’t make tight corners. I want to redo everything but the splices and potential resistance changes at new splices could be an (unlikely) issue… and I don’t want to use any of it so I’m gonna leave that for retirement next decade. Stupid Chinese design for a crate engine, cheap@sses. So for harness I’m gonna bundle it all in fender and just feed OBD through oval plug by fuse box, and Murphy gauge and ignition/gauge inputs through behind dash/binnacle. It could be SOOO much smaller and use fabric wire harness tape. Off soap box.

This 100%

I did the same thing and just ran the Murphy gauge wiring and the few for the VDO's thru the bulkhead.

I don't want to cut up the harness so it's wrapped up onto itself under the LH fender but man is there a lot of wiring. It would be a money maker for Cummins to sell a more condensed harness.
 

MountainD

Technical Excellence Contributor
with the engine back in and position slightly adjusted with the increased clearance, I could mock up the DOC. I know a lot of you are not using it, but frankly it helps with emissions and our world needs that. Seeing smog in Denver makes it a no brainer.
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clears nicely but I have to clock it a bit towards the frame. Loads of potential ways, looking at options. I’d like to use Chads adapter from QuickDraw as easiest but am waiting on degrees it shifts it to make sure it’s not too much and hits frame.

I am also susceptible to Squirrel! Syndrome and so I started disassembling my heater box. I had two, sold the one without rust (as I’m modding mine and can fix rust) and am is assembling:

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I have some parts…
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MountainD

Technical Excellence Contributor
I’m onto brackets. The first is the fuel filter. I saw some folks using 200/300tdi position but thats really close to exhaust and you don’t want it in hot spots. I’m LHD, and I did see a shot of someone doing it off brake box (but not how), so I looked around for what I had and cut some square tubing. I figure I could use the same bolts that hold the booster onto the brake box. I cut one side of the tubing and cut a couple slots so it could slip between the nuts and the brake box flange. I cut a window opposit’s this to allow a wrench to tighten the bracket down. Then ran that cut off side horizontally to hang the filter without mod to defender.
 

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MountainD

Technical Excellence Contributor
Thanks! Also sandblasted the rust off the heater box. I’ll get it painted and reinstalled next week. Intercooler should be arriving then too and I can toss on the fenders to mock up the front breakfast…
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gonna mount the Hotshot heated wiper fluid heater on opposite side of booster too…
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MountainD

Technical Excellence Contributor
Elbow grease. No short cuts to doing something right. Careful masking preserves sticker from new paint. Sand blasted rust, removed all gaskets…. You know the drill…
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MountainD

Technical Excellence Contributor
There is nothing quite as frustrating as riveting and screwing the air box back together and finding an insulating washer that must have slipped off the shaft of the motor that goes internal by the brushes. $h!T! Apart it came. But all back together, new upgraded fan, new Allisport heater matrix, sealed, new foam on flaps, rust fixed and painted (including masked orig sticker). I used a thin closed cell foam on the flaps and thicker closed cell on the inside for core to sides.
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I also made a bracket similar to the fuel filter for the heated windshield fluid sprayer. These, the Webasto HOTShot had mixed reviews mainly cause they can short and were unfused causing fires. That won’t be the case here (at least the fuse) and from there, we will see. It’ll be on an override switch as well, so I’m not concerned. They haven’t been made in years and I found a NOS a couple years ago. When they work, they are great. Bugs clear easier, clears ice off windshield…
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MountainD

Technical Excellence Contributor
Also to aid heating and engine operation in cooler weather, installing a Webasto Thermotop C. I’ve been accumulating loads of goodies that have been on the shelves in storage just waiting for me to play. The Thermotop C plumbs into the engine cooling system and preheats the engine coolant. Now when you turn on heat, it’s warm which means a) cabin heat and b) windshield defrost. If you recall earlier post, this will be used with the second bung welded into the gas tank and also runs on diesel. I tossed in the heater core for quick mock up and balanced fender. I’ll mount as low as reasonable off the fender bracket that coolant res was mounted to (which has been relocated under wing top in TD5+ style, also shown in previous post. Loads of relocations on my build.
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However, I believe I’ll put this in pointing opposite direction toward heater core and a tad forward. To do that more gracefully I’ll need to clock the circulating pump inlet and found replacement covers that convert to 5/8” hose and eitherpoint inlet straight down or forward… I’m still deciding…
 
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TheOneTen

Member
Callsign: K1WRX
Before you go hacking away at your fuel tank, you should look at the fuel filter head. I *believe* that it has options to have a secondary output which would allow you to draw directly from the already-filtered fuel without having to run a ton of extra tubing.
 

MountainD

Technical Excellence Contributor
Before you go hacking away at your fuel tank, you should look at the fuel filter head. I *believe* that it has options to have a secondary output which would allow you to draw directly from the already-filtered fuel without having to run a ton of extra tubing.
The tank is already welded for the AN bung, but I can easily cap it. Are you saying to tap in here?
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Which would greatly reduce my distance and frankly would be an excellent idea. I would not have thought of that. I moved the input/outputs to the opposite side for the engine where you see the capped AN lines already... Is this what you are thinking? My only concern is potential fuel starvation when both operated at same time. Maybe this isn't a concern--I have never used one and I don't know if it it sips or gulps.
 
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Napalm00

Technical Excellence Contributor
they sip fuel, they use a dip tube to reduce the internal fuel pump power requirement...im not sure if the heater has enough juice to pull fuel from that high and away from the tank ?
 

MountainD

Technical Excellence Contributor
they sip fuel, they use a dip tube to reduce the internal fuel pump power requirement...im not sure if the heater has enough juice to pull fuel from that high and away from the tank ?
I am considering it. I am not worried about the distance/ height, well within specs
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MountainD

Technical Excellence Contributor
Nice photos, Jim, thanks! And thanks for a clever fuel supply, Napalm! In the end, I have decided to run a dedicated fuel line. The reason is simple---a dedicated fuel system will be easier to trouble shoot god forbid something goes wrong. Even something as simple as an air bubble in the fuel line induced by an air leak back-feeding from the Webasto (or connection/hose) or something totally strange...that crap would happen to me. KISS, when it comes to the engine--one straight shot wired well.
 

TheOneTen

Member
Callsign: K1WRX
The tank is already welded for the AN bung, but I can easily cap it. Are you saying to tap in here?
View attachment 22528

Which would greatly reduce my distance and frankly would be an excellent idea. I would not have thought of that. I moved the input/outputs to the opposite side for the engine where you see the capped AN lines already... Is this what you are thinking? My only concern is potential fuel starvation when both operated at same time. Maybe this isn't a concern--I have never used one and I don't know if it it sips or gulps.
Yep! That's the place. Just replace that capped plug with an appropriate fuel hose for your heater.
 
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