1991 200TDI to R2.8--couple remaining questions

[Napalm00]

E36 M3 mounts are also liquid and short

1996 BMW M3 3.2L L6 Motor Mount | RockAuto

RockAuto ships auto parts and body parts from over 300 manufacturers to customers' doors worldwide, all at warehouse prices. Easy to use parts catalog.

www.rockauto.com

they used it on lots of cars, some very powerful

 

[MountainD]

I was not a huge fan of the isolators that came with the QD kit... Looking in to the Anchor 2698 and they do look like they are much nicer...BUT at almost 7 inches tall, there is no way they will fit, I only have 4.5 inches from the frame rail to the engine's bracket... I was thinking the 6.9" is including the studs.

EDIT: Called Anchor...they are about 3 1/6 to 3 1/8 tall between the studs.

Here is the info that I pulled from. And I never thought that the rubber to rubber was 6.9, just stud tip to stud tip:

Now studying the dimensions (taken from: https://anchor-online.com/products/engine-mounts/ just input 1993 Ford F150 with V6) I think I get it. They have a stud to stud tip dimension of 6.875", height of isolator itself of 3.6875", and a width at widest point of 5.5625"

That all said, I want to share a pic of something that I am thinking for the mount itself. Mine won't be exactly like this, but you get the concept:

I'll get everyone dimensions once in hand.

 

[MountainD]

E36 M3 mounts are also liquid and short

1996 BMW M3 3.2L L6 Motor Mount | RockAuto

RockAuto ships auto parts and body parts from over 300 manufacturers to customers' doors worldwide, all at warehouse prices. Easy to use parts catalog.

www.rockauto.com

they used it on lots of cars, some very powerful

Thanks!

I did see those on the 4BT forums too. It seemed that the preference was for the 2698. Don't know why, but what I do know is that there isn't another engine on the road that is WORSE from a noise and vibration issue than the 4BT! So if it was a consensus for them, it should be more than adequate here. That all said, if necessary, I would switch in a heart beat as I have no ties to anything--whatever is best for my application (I have never been a brand loyalist. Just a cool loyalist. Which is why I love old Bronco's, Cruisers and G-wagons too )

Seems pretty similar:

but with offset studs and shorter stud length. Same height and width.... Great to know.

And this is why Like sharing info. You get some really great suggestions. I will also switch strategies in a second if someone has a better idea .
I will say that the adjustment that JD Jeeps do on his mounts is super useful and a nice design from an adjustment standpoint.

 

[Ephry73]

This reminds me of a topic in the VW world for motor mounts on diesels and turbos. On the driver's side the motor mount is rubber isolate on the block as well as being isolated with rubber on the chassis side. Super strong and allows for enough flexibility on the motor to not crack itself apart.

 

[MountainD]

I’m always getting called a packrat by the wifey. Even carrying scrap steel from one house to the next. BUT when I need1/4 steel, and especially 4” angle…. Squeak squeak!

Pretty sure I have a solid game plan for the motor mounts!

 

[donb]

@MountainD - what 4BT forum are you getting info from? The 4BT Swap one?

 

[MountainD]

IH8Mud, Pirate, and the like. Not keep track of particulars on which forums though. Just a lot of screen time search. Knock yourself out… time sucks…

@MountainD - what 4BT forum are you getting info from? The 4BT Swap one?

 

[MountainD]

I’ll have a week to myself when my wife takes care of some stuff --and I’ll invariably get a lot done then at the end of February, until then just a hour at a time. However I did finish my rear axle assembly including a brake rebuild. I’ll post the rebuild as it’s own post for others.

 

[MountainD]

Meanwhile, in the "hour at a time" club, I have been working on my lower dash. Inside was mud colored...and again, if you are going to do it, do it right. SO I have stripped all the foam, will sound deaden/insulate the interior with press and seal (at least the lid where I am removing this layer of what I assume is there to seal and insulate, and will get it all nice and tidy before sealing back up. I may route a wire on two through the inside---there are a couple factory holes already and it may be a convenient place... Undecided as of yet...

Muddy inside, cable actuated flap with torsion spring---bar going to left connects second vent...

Shitty foam gasketing, excellent Red Breast whisky

Foam on backside of top cover. Top cover was held on by about a dozen partially stripped small posi drive screws that someone probably didn't know were posi...

Elbow grease, alcohol and goof off helped a bit...

I may just recover it while it is apart... at least I may try... More tomorrow...

 

[MountainD]

If you are still reading my ramblings, then god bless you. That said, I promised a caliper rebuild and you can find it here: https://nas-row.com/index.php?threads/brake-caliper-rebuild.5600/

 

[MountainD]

The mounts really are not that big. I may just jump into it and crank it out or it’ll have to wait a couple weeks. But first, I’m tired of fighting my engine hoist. I literally have to stick a screwdriver though a hole in the wheel to Direct them. So I bought a couple of these sturdy plastic wheels at lowes.

no, no, no…that is just a joke. These are cast wheel replacements from Summit …I crack me up…

here are the sizes of the engine mounts for clarity.

so not bad on the size front. Been doing wiring stuff and a lot of fiddling. Intercooler should arrive next week and then only two items I’ll need to acquire (yeah, right!) are the drive shafts and exhaust. Yeah, that is “3” items, but I use married-man-math. And that is how that works, I follow the rules of the Book of a Rules, man edition, 2019. Page 1. Well, it’s only one page cause that is all a man would read…

 

[MountainD]

Got the metal.

Will rip out the engine in a couple weeks and getting underway before final assembly. Using engine mounted 4” flat bar plate welded to 2-1/2” square tubing extending out on engine sides. And 4” angle iron (gusseted) on chassis side. Plan is to chop the top off the tubing to make access to bolt (I would have formed it but I don’t have something that can bend 1/4” steel —nor could I get the C channel that thick off the shelf) Gonna mill out a slot in the tubing for engine mount bolt, I think. On chassis side, think I’ll mill slot running parallel to chassis. This will allow positioning of the engine a bit. That will keep the chassis side mount (angle iron) from extending that far from the chassis as that is welded to thinner wall "chassis material" so I want to minimize any cantilever on that material. And there is a little cantilever. We have basically 17" of free space between the sides of the engine and the chassis rails. Anyways, makes sense to me. I'm running thicker than necessary---I know that. But it gives me a little more welding depth as, for all mechanical things I do well, I am always improving my welds. I would love an advanced class sometime, particular with aluminium tig....

Doubt I’ll do crap more for a couple weeks as I have something else that needs doing, but then I’m gonna be cranking!!

 

[MountainD]

So in keeping with my prediction of not doing any more this week (particularly with the women's final in Olympic half pipe!) I haven't done crap. Except for one...huge....thing (to me). This may be boring for some to read--so skip to the end if you don't like words. As some of you know, I got a very expensive, horrific quality (to me) radiator/intercooler combo specifically for the R2.8. That was months and months ago. It was horrific, raw, horribly cut material, they didn't even trim housing at the feeds in the radiator so it is blocking any good flow. Pic time: First is inside the radiator feed and return.

Sorry, but screw that for $2k for the combo. Ron Davis made my D90's (awesome), Allisport (awesome) other components. I'm used to a higher quality at that price and I had to send it back. Look-- I'm not outing them (other board member) and they didn't make it-- just had it made--this could have been a one off---Shits weird the last couple years and they are and have always been good folks--so not on them, justa mistake. It wasn't a hastle to return, got full money back, they agreed, no worries, no hastles.

BUT!!!! So I got my modified Griffin Made in the USA radiator. I have posted that previously so you have seen the quality--very good. Custom to my specs on in/out diameters and positions, delivered in under a month and at a very decent cost just under a grand. But I searched everywhere for a great intercooler. Initially I went with Allisport but their radiator/intercooler was WAY out, couldn't get the cores and my buds still waiting. I canceled it after being strung along for 6 mo. They just refused to respond after it was months late. Too bad. I canceled it as I hadn't even gotten invoiced.

Search continued. It turns out that all the AULRO folks (basically our forum down under but a little severe in the "ruff road" world as their outback trips are grueling and typically way more demanding) and the intercooler that is sort of the Par Excellence is PlasmaMan. So I contacted them. Based on Cummins requirements, my radiator core size, positioning and free air flow to radiator (I have rather demanding conditions of altitude, steep passes over 10K' elevation and towing a 2000lb trailer) I settled on the 500mm x 300mm x 63mm Pro series core and built from there. I had them add 90 degree exits, I had them extend 100mm so past my radiator for ease of connection. It came tonight. I poured a fat Manhattan, and now the good stuff.

First and foremost, it wasn't quick. Nor did they profess that, although even they were late. I waited 138 days. But part way through that time, they upgraded their website and I became even more excited. This company is quality and one I whole hardly support. They accommodated, were responsive and makes high end shit. https://plazmaman.com/ The cost shipped to the USA was about a grand as well, just over. Basically $2K for the Griffin/Plasmaman combo but now I am not second guessing myself. Enough words.

 

[DiscoDavis]

those ones look great! good finding a quality part!

 

[Ephry73]

The mounts really are not that big. I may just jump into it and crank it out or it’ll have to wait a couple weeks. But first, I’m tired of fighting my engine hoist. I literally have to stick a screwdriver though a hole in the wheel to Direct them. So I bought a couple of these sturdy plastic wheels at lowes.
View attachment 22788
no, no, no…that is just a joke. These are cast wheel replacements from Summit …I crack me up…

here are the sizes of the engine mounts for clarity. View attachment 22795View attachment 22790View attachment 22791View attachment 22792View attachment 22793View attachment 22794
so not bad on the size front. Been doing wiring stuff and a lot of fiddling. Intercooler should arrive next week and then only two items I’ll need to acquire (yeah, right!) are the drive shafts and exhaust. Yeah, that is “3” items, but I use married-man-math. And that is how that works, I follow the rules of the Book of a Rules, man edition, 2019. Page 1. Well, it’s only one page cause that is all a man would read…

Those mounts do not look too bad at all. Oil filled? Source?

 

[Napalm00]

So in keeping with my prediction of not doing any more this week (particularly with the women's final in Olympic half pipe!) I haven't done crap. Except for one...huge....thing (to me). This may be boring for some to read--so skip to the end if you don't like words. As some of you know, I got a very expensive, horrific quality (to me) radiator/intercooler combo specifically for the R2.8. That was months and months ago. It was horrific, raw, horribly cut material, they didn't even trim housing at the feeds in the radiator so it is blocking any good flow. Pic time: First is inside the radiator feed and return.
View attachment 22824View attachment 22825

Sorry, but screw that for $2k for the combo. Ron Davis made my D90's (awesome), Allisport (awesome) other components. I'm used to a higher quality at that price and I had to send it back. Look-- I'm not outing them (other board member) and they didn't make it-- just had it made--this could have been a one off---Shits weird the last couple years and they are and have always been good folks--so not on them, justa mistake. It wasn't a hastle to return, got full money back, they agreed, no worries, no hastles.

BUT!!!! So I got my modified Griffin Made in the USA radiator. I have posted that previously so you have seen the quality--very good. Custom to my specs on in/out diameters and positions, delivered in under a month and at a very decent cost just under a grand. But I searched everywhere for a great intercooler. Initially I went with Allisport but their radiator/intercooler was WAY out, couldn't get the cores and my buds still waiting. I canceled it after being strung along for 6 mo. They just refused to respond after it was months late. Too bad. I canceled it as I hadn't even gotten invoiced.

Search continued. It turns out that all the AULRO folks (basically our forum down under but a little severe in the "ruff road" world as their outback trips are grueling and typically way more demanding) and the intercooler that is sort of the Par Excellence is PlasmaMan. So I contacted them. Based on Cummins requirements, my radiator core size, positioning and free air flow to radiator (I have rather demanding conditions of altitude, steep passes over 10K' elevation and towing a 2000lb trailer) I settled on the 500mm x 300mm x 63mm Pro series core and built from there. I had them add 90 degree exits, I had them extend 100mm so past my radiator for ease of connection. It came tonight. I poured a fat Manhattan, and now the good stuff.

First and foremost, it wasn't quick. Nor did they profess that, although even they were late. I waited 138 days. But part way through that time, they upgraded their website and I became even more excited. This company is quality and one I whole hardly support. They accommodated, were responsive and makes high end shit. https://plazmaman.com/ The cost shipped to the USA was about a grand as well, just over. Basically $2K for the Griffin/Plasmaman combo but now I am not second guessing myself. Enough words.

View attachment 22826View attachment 22827
View attachment 22828View attachment 22829
View attachment 22830View attachment 22831

This looks amazing. I'm now second guessing my idea of running two smaller 7-in wide intercoolers in series.

 

[MountainD]

Those mounts do not look too bad at all. Oil filled? Source?

Super common mount. I got mine off ebay due to supply chain issue but Amazon, RockAuto, Summit.... they all carry this super common mount

 

[MountainD]

This looks amazing. I'm now second guessing my idea of running two smaller 7-in wide intercoolers in series.

I'm tickled pink. I have seen some amazing intercoolers over the years as I have friends that are in the tuner circles. This is as good or better than any I have seen so far. If I needed one, I would chose them hands down.

 

[MountainD]

I have a fuel sediment filter that I was going to use with my precious 200tdi. Any reason not to use it? Is it always a good idea or do t worry about it?

 

[Napalm00]

I converted to electric fuel pump with strainer and a stanadyne final filter, 2micron