1991 200TDI to R2.8--couple remaining questions

MountainD

Technical Excellence Contributor
Wrapping up some ordering of fluids— what are 2.8 folks using for power steering? My thought Is to error on side of most expensive component and just continue to use transmission fluid since that’s what steering box knows…
 

MountainD

Technical Excellence Contributor
Project Creep.
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MountainD

Technical Excellence Contributor
I hate finding rust…
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sanded it down to bare metal with wire wheel. Primed with zinc primer and painted.
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but even more, I hate finding this poopoo.
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thats the back of the ignition relay…. Great thought to do that. Argh. This will all get sorted. Removing all cut wiring and properly slicing.

just learned that after my intercooler was completed and shipped, if finally left Australia after a week at airport…. Getting excited!
 
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MountainD

Technical Excellence Contributor
I was checking my flange angles at my transfer case it it wasn't quite where I wanted/expected it. The rear angle was a little low (which is set) which means the front had to come down. I was erroring on the side of caution when I placed the engine and had the engine pretty well clear of the axle. What I SHOULD have done is made it safe but barely free from hitting, which I didn't do. Everything would benefit from the engine coming down another inch, maybe close to 2 if I can work it. Wow. Talk about a shit feeling knowing that what you should do compared to what you want to be donig....particularly seeing how the engine is place, welded, painted and in assembly. I want to keep moving in the right direction, but then you have to truly define "right".

Right means chopping out the mount, repositioning the engine, and rewelding in mounts. WOW. Major shittty feeling. But, when you do something for yourself, you do it right.right. Hell, you go through the world once--when you do something at all, do it right--that is the only way to spend the time. So starting tomorrow, I am back in disassembly mode. Does it suck? Right now, at this moment, beyond belief. But for the right reasons which makes it.... well, it doesn't change the feeling or a fu$&ing thing. At least my Flaviar whiskey tasting package (wife's gift for xmas) arrived today. Tasters are fun and done....and some of the bottle. Now I am pissed, pissed, and need to piss. Flock.
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Norton

Well-known member
I was checking my flange angles at my transfer case it it wasn't quite where I wanted/expected it. The rear angle was a little low (which is set) which means the front had to come down. I was erroring on the side of caution when I placed the engine and had the engine pretty well clear of the axle. What I SHOULD have done is made it safe but barely free from hitting, which I didn't do. Everything would benefit from the engine coming down another inch, maybe close to 2 if I can work it. Wow. Talk about a shit feeling knowing that what you should do compared to what you want to be donig....particularly seeing how the engine is place, welded, painted and in assembly. I want to keep moving in the right direction, but then you have to truly define "right".

Right means chopping out the mount, repositioning the engine, and rewelding in mounts. WOW. Major shittty feeling. But, when you do something for yourself, you do it right.right. Hell, you go through the world once--when you do something at all, do it right--that is the only way to spend the time. So starting tomorrow, I am back in disassembly mode. Does it suck? Right now, at this moment, beyond belief. But for the right reasons which makes it.... well, it doesn't change the feeling or a fu$&ing thing. At least my Flaviar whiskey tasting package (wife's gift for xmas) arrived today. Tasters are fun and done....and some of the bottle. Now I am pissed, pissed, and need to piss. Flock.
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ugh however it will be perfect now and you wont have that nagging feeling in the back of your head.
 

MountainD

Technical Excellence Contributor
Cant you adjust the rear angle by swapping the trailing arms and a frame mount ? What I did
I hear you. And yeah, I actually have new 3d castor trailing arms that I will put in with the rebuilt axle. But that was just how the flag went up that there are TOO many issues---there are others but I was too pissed at myself for letting it get that far when I knew at the time it was a tad high. I'm fighting several things with it being too high---they include minimal clearance on the top before the head liner of the bonnet, a higher than optimum center of gravity (both that I could live and deal with) but then I have the added front and rear slight pinion angles that could be better (again, just slight, I could live with it) and then there is the bell housing. The R380 bell housing bulkhead adapter plate hits that wide bellhousing. I can trim that easy enough, but then I have to cut out a portion of the fiberglass bell housing tunnel where it hits. There are just too many things that I would not have to deal with I can correct with a slight change in position of the engine.

Fortunately, I decided to leave all the plumbing, fueling, cooling lines off the engine (with the exception of the routing of the heater hoses, so I only have to disconnect 3 wires, throttle cable and no hoses to get it out--just loosen the engine mounts.

But there is one more thing. I hate these engine mounts--I think they are cheap POS and I should never have bought them. Yeah, they are available and they do an OK job of isolating the sounds/vibrations, but just OK. I have driven in a few now and I am not that impressed. And putting the engine in and out is a PITA as it binds on the slots because it can't come straight up. I've decided to go with the Anchor 2698 fluid mounts. Yeah, Lord Fluidlastic are the best, but nearly impossible to find and that nixes that (even if they were not $200 compared to $20 for the Anchors). Mercedes are not that much better either. An absolute ton of Cummins 4BT's use these for not only vibration but sound mitagation. Yeah, the R2.8doesn't don't produce that many vibrations but sound transmission is still there. Yeah, yeah, yeah, there are other ways to attenuate sound. If you have followed what I am doing, I am doing all those too. I don't expect quiet when pushing a box through the air at 65mph, but the wife and I do a lot of long drives(such as 6 hours to Moab, 5 hours to NE, or 15 hours+ to CA) so I want to make it as civil as possible.

Frankly, I can't believe these are not the go to mounts. But I'll give them a thorough flogging and review... Once I figure out the "new" mounting.
 

Napalm00

Technical Excellence Contributor
bummmer man but at least you have a plan. Those anchor mounts look like a larger version of the ones that some mid 90s rangers had, or maybe it the same mount?
 

MountainD

Technical Excellence Contributor
Yeah, that is the one. Do you have experience with them? Many folks are swearing by them from the 4BT groups when I was doing a 4BT swap (that got nixed by CO due to that engine being one weight class above the 110...
 

donb

Well-known member
It totally sucks but the fact that you are improving the engine mounts should make you feel a lot better.

I felt like a total dumbass when I had an issue with my clutch plate and had to take half the items out of my drivetrain. But was watching Hot Rod Garage with Tony Angelo and Lucky Costas last week and they had to pull a tranny in and out a few times for the wrong sized bolts that were binding the flywheel to the engine. We are doing a lot of custom work with these installs and even the pros make mistakes.

Can't wait to see what you come up with on the Anchor engine mounts.
 

dkemm

Well-known member
sorry to hear about the re-work.....but sounds like you will be improving what you dont like as well!
In reality...its a little more work...but in the long run you will drive with a huge ass smile!!! the entire 6hours
 

MountainD

Technical Excellence Contributor
I will admit, I felt a bit of pressure to get this all in the first time from a time standpoint. I am not blaming anyone but myself as I succumbed to the pressure but I didn't take the time that I felt I should have initially. It was all worth it, though, as I learned a ton by having it in during this time. I wish I didn't buy several of the parts that I bought but other than that, Ill enjoy having it in the right place and not kicking myself in the future. I appreciate the kind comments and encouragement!

There is only one regret and that is not doing the Long Bellhousing version, but I explained that previously...
 

dkemm

Well-known member
yea, I wish that i would have received the long bell housing that i ordered....
would have saved me some tunnel cutting and fabricating
 
Sounds like it'll work out for the better in the long run.
If you don't mind, I'd be curious what your height is now relative to say a fixed point on the bulkhead (or anything else that is similar to across vehicles, i.e. top of frame) - something that we could all reference and benefit from to avoid the same lessons learned.
 

MountainD

Technical Excellence Contributor
Sounds like it'll work out for the better in the long run.
If you don't mind, I'd be curious what your height is now relative to say a fixed point on the bulkhead (or anything else that is similar to across vehicles, i.e. top of frame) - something that we could all reference and benefit from to avoid the same lessons learned.
You bet. Sounds like a plan. I will say, that it has to be qualified as a Stumpy Bell Housing version as the heights are also a function of projection due to the bonnet design---so you can actually be higher closer to the bulkhead than further away. So I will give a height and a bulkhead distance criteria when I do.
 

dkemm

Well-known member
Sounds like it'll work out for the better in the long run.
If you don't mind, I'd be curious what your height is now relative to say a fixed point on the bulkhead (or anything else that is similar to across vehicles, i.e. top of frame) - something that we could all reference and benefit from to avoid the same lessons learned.
Thought it was a great idea. While my photos don’t reference a fixed frame or bulkhead measure - I placed c channel across the wings, second photo is from FMIC / radiator- the fuel rail sits lower than the wings. This is R2.8, stumpy R380 - used the lt230 mounts as my fixed pivot for mount height
 

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Napalm00

Technical Excellence Contributor
I've never used the mounts outside of what they were specced for in a ranger. Stock mount had failed and I put in one of those anchor mounts never had an issue.


They are bigger than they look FYI
 
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MountainD

Technical Excellence Contributor
They are bigger than they look FYI
That sounds like a line I used in High School, LOL! However most fluid mounts are fairly well sized. If I read the specs right, they are about 3.7" for the small taper, 5.6 for the large taper and a height of about 6.9". It's pretty big. But, doesn't phase me much--I have a welder... lol. (Before I go nuts and cut shit, I’ll 100% have these in hand with a dimensioned game plan— sometimes size is an issue…and your sentiment is well heeded.)

I was thinking more about the mount and I will very possibly just cut the top off the existing frame mount and turn it into a mount that will accept a flat plate. Attach a flat plate to the new mount. then I will just need to make a horizontal mount for the engine which is also easy. Insert mount into new sandwich. Take plates. Remove mounts, weld plates. Easy peasy. Hahahaha.... we will see how easy it actually is soon enough...

Meanwhile, I'll try and finish the axle rebuilds this weekend....
 
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theShaytoon

Well-known member
That sounds like a line I used in High School, LOL! However most fluid mounts are fairly well sized. If I read the specs right, they are about 3.7" for the small taper, 5.6 for the large taper and a height of about 6.9". It's pretty big. But, doesn't phase me much--I have a welder... lol. (Before I go nuts and cut shit, I’ll 100% have these in hand with a dimensioned game plan— sometimes size is an issue…and your sentiment is well heeded.)

I was thinking more about the mount and I will very possibly just cut the top off the existing frame mount and turn it into a mount that will accept a flat plate. Attach a flat plate to the new mount. then I will just need to make a horizontal mount for the engine which is also easy. Insert mount into new sandwich. Take plates. Remove mounts, weld plates. Easy peasy. Hahahaha.... we will see how easy it actually is soon enough...

Meanwhile, I'll try and finish the axle rebuilds this weekend....
I was not a huge fan of the isolators that came with the QD kit... Looking in to the Anchor 2698 and they do look like they are much nicer...BUT at almost 7 inches tall, there is no way they will fit, I only have 4.5 inches from the frame rail to the engine's bracket... I was thinking the 6.9" is including the studs.

EDIT: Called Anchor...they are about 3 1/6 to 3 1/8 tall between the studs.
 
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