1991 200TDI to R2.8--couple remaining questions

Napalm00 said:

I converted to electric fuel pump with strainer and a stanadyne final filter, 2micron

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What about the fuel water separator sensor? Did you bypass all of that?

Didn't have one , this is on a truck that was originally 2.5na

Back from the Rock Legends cruise to Bahamas and back, got home at 2AM yesterday and jumped right back in. Pulled engine, cut out mounts (What a PITA!) and started fabbing and redoing the whole in…out….in….out…process. Got the mock up sorted on new mounts. Tomorrow ill triple check everything then add some gussets and burn all the stuff in.

looking good. Im guessing that you will also be adding some gussets to the mounts

Initially I was but I’m second guessing if necessary. The chassis side is 1/4”angle and the engine side is 1/4” 2-1/2” square tube onto 3/8” plate. It’s pretty stout. But yes, that’s the thought. I wanted to take the engine out again to make sure it can come out (spoiler: it does). Wouldn’t that be a kick in the teeth if the mounts interferes with it going in!

I’m playing with it all right now to see if I need to add anything. 90% sure I’ll gusset the forward corner of chassis mounts and trim the rear corners but not much else…. More after I decide.

Well, I have to say I am pleased and now moving past the mounts. I do like the lowering and repositioning of the engine slightly toward the passengers side and lower, about 1.5" or so. The mounts all worked as planned although we will know more after it has been running for a while. But I can definitely move onto other items. Obviously this is a longer build sorting the truck out and correcting the PO's other works. Loads of crap was done and I have identified most of it and getting it all taken care of little by little.



A big part of the design was ease of putting the engine in and out--as well as easy changing of the engine mounts and it is a complete success in regards to that. Easy access to the bolts without fighting fenders or obstructions.

No washer ?





Just being an ass

Napalm00 said:

No washer ?





Just being an ass

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Hahaha— none that fit! I have a bag with 4 of them in it… somewhere…. They need to get tightened once I find it. My garage looks like a tornado went off.

That looks a lot cleaner/simpler/more elegant than the Farmstrong/Quickdraw mounts. And I am guessing with the vertical engine mount and horizontal mount points it was a lot easier to mock up. Those 45 deg angles were a pain in the ass - if you had to move one way or another it seemed to throw everything off.

Very nice solution and I'm sure you are way happier. Can't wait to hear the results of how the new mounts work.

donb said:

That looks a lot cleaner/simpler/more elegant than the Farmstrong/Quickdraw mounts. And I am guessing with the vertical engine mount and horizontal mount points it was a lot easier to mock up. Those 45 deg angles were a pain in the ass - if you had to move one way or another it seemed to throw everything off.

Very nice solution and I'm sure you are way happier. Can't wait to hear the results of how the new mounts work.

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Thanks! Although I didn't show it, I did put the mounts in my mill and put slots in the engine mounts so I could shift the engine a little side to side. However, I knew where it was going so they are not very long slots. If I did make these universal, I would have slotted both the chassis (forward/back) and the engine (side to side) mounts. Since this was the second time in/out, I knew where it needed to go so I didn't bother, but there you have it .

I finished up patching and inspecting the harness. i Just want to point out that in the electrical diagrams, they even show pic up points… none of which were used. Instead, they cut into and tapped dangerously into the harness in 4 places. DONT EVER CUT YOUR HARNESS! There is no need. If you are adding accessories, there are several pre-determined places to achieve this including 2 spare slots in the fuse box. Or add an accessory relay/fuse box off a circuit breaker directly off the battery (which I’m doing). Also, inspecting your harness can reveal a thing or two… such as damaged insulation on a hot lead. For the clock.
I

The 2698 engine mounts compress 0.5”. Good to know. it was probably weighted down by all those washers @Napalm00 made me add to the mounts.

I also wrapped up adding the additional washer jets and completed conversion to the later bolt on wiper blades system by swapping wheel boxes, new wiper arms and regearing motor. Plenty of threads on this online and easy if you already have everything apart…. modded to twowasher jet system… maybe three if pump could handle it…gonna test it first (my D90 has dual so I know that works…). Why not three?

Now was the good time for me. just need to add insulation to the bulkhead and start reassembly!

next up is to finish DOC location and mod, finish routing harness, put fenders on, finish under bonnet wiring and onto mounting radiators, intercooler, trans radiator, fuel tanks and plumbing, finish axles, rebuild A-frame, install axles and suspension, add Webasto, do Disco II rear seat mod install, Install sound system…. Shit…. At least I know which direction to head!!

I’m pretty much relegated to “some” weekends and partial evenings. Work has been NUTS with 10-14 hour days and weekends keep getting “interrupted” with concerts, events and fun. Although I could just say no and work on the truck, saying “no” to friends and family is just stupid. It’s why we are here. but progress is being made. The inside bulkhead wiring “fixes” are done reverting the harness to stock without janky shit going on and the insulation is in.

but I really needed to assemble the axles and that’s not going as fast, lol. As if it could go slower…. I have the rear assembled, but was putting off the front a bit. So started that, got the swivels together but had to stop after setting preload…


but had to stop... you see it…. Bugs you too…. Fresh axle, fresh parts… bugging you with that JANKY swivel pin housing…. Argh. Yeah, yeah,….do it right you lazy bastard…. Off it came…


Sand blasted, masked and ready for paint… but it’s 7F outside…. So inside fumes, here we come.

Ill let these dry a little more and get them assembled this weekend, and I should be able to use the shim set up from disassembly but at this point in my life, setting preload doesn’t take very long. I have a lot of shims, keep them separated, and can select them by feel of their flimsiness so it goes quickly. Everything else are just turning bolts. Bearings are all now replaced and diff is already set up. Bill rebuilt the HD CV’s over at GBR and will be doing my driveshafts probably next week (modifying front, new rear). Just need to get the axles under the truck to get final measurements.

Meanwhile I’ve sanded and painted the rims. Wolf’s now black. Didn’t need a poll to determine color…I knew my preference... Ymmv…


Current mini-plan: finish front axle and install front/rear (guess I need to paint A-frame and replace joint with 45 degree high angle version too). Measure and order driveshafts, run wires for accessories to dash and reassemble dash. install heater box, fenders, install fuel tanks, install trans cooler, cut rear tub and mod sheet metal for DiscoII seat, sound insulate rear, install rear seat, install wings, paint fender arches, install Webasto, start framework on radiator/intercooler, do plumbing, finish wiring at accessory fuse/relay panel….install stereo system… Still a long list, but doing a lot of it concurrently, which is awesome. When I get frustrated or impatient on one part/task, I jump to a fresh part. It’s lacks some workflow cohesion, but aids enjoyment and I only stop at logical places (like after all bolts are torqued …then I put a note on where/what to do next if at mid point). Concert tonight (blues lovers will know Anthony Gomes), St Paddy’s celebration Sat, so maybe get time on Sunday…. Should be running before the 17th. Just not sure which month/year yet…

finished. Probably put them under the truck tomorrow.

Well tomorrow happened and today And I got the front setup.


And I even got the back out


Rust stopped me. I need to sandblast and paint A-arms, brackets, and at least paint crossmember. no worries, just more delays…..


so more back work before moving forward, but still nice day.

A-arms suck. Cause dirt always falls in my face. I need a facemask… and they are heavy. But what they aren’t is hard nor expensive to rebuild. If you have a press…. And that I do have. Waiting on bushings and had to cut one of the 3/4”x4”bolts that bonded to bushing spacer…

…but got it down to parts…pressed out the bushings, then into the sandblaster.


Then slapped a couple coats of primer then paint.


I just want to get the areas on the chassis that have surface rust down to clean metal and repaint it. I’ll then protect the chassis with a coat of Cosmoline RP-342. Then I’ll get the rear back in, measure for drive shafts, and get those rolling with Bill@GBR. That’ll allow me to figure out the DOC’s creative fitment to clear the front driveshaft.

Busy day yesterday…and had to do a bit of a backtrack. The good news is the axles are both in! Had to back track on the rear which was a PITA. I know what the LR manual procedure is on install of rear A-frame, but on my 90 I always have installed the Aframe ball to axle last and torque up the castle nut. But on a salz, you can’t get a socket on it like my 90. So in situ, I removed the 4 bolts holding the ball on… which you can’t get to without disassembling the A-arms from the ball joint to rotate out of the way…. Next time, I do it that way!l (Like I have a choice…lol). Walked my knee on frame tie-down in process hard enough that may have cracked patella or something…. Always something!

But main tank is installed, as well as the tank skid (Thanks Zack and Rovers North!).

the Aux fuel tank has an equalizing hose that connects via a 90 connector into the tank drain visible on left side bottom of tank. Horrible idea. My skid on my 90 sees scrape time in CO and Moab, so that won’t fly. Had a bung tig welded on the side of tank about an inch up to a flat spot—now nothing hangs down:

on opposite side, another was tigged in for the Thermotop C coolant heater:

intentionally kept a little higher to avoid any potential issues drawing too much fuel and to avoid sediment.

next up is the Aux tank and then over to buddies to hopefully make the tie/drag links And drink a little bourbon…

MountainD said:

Busy day yesterday…and had to do a bit of a backtrack. The good news is the axles are both in! Had to back track on the rear which was a PITA. I know what the LR manual procedure is on install of rear A-frame, but on my 90 I always have installed the Aframe ball to axle last and torque up the castle nut. But on a salz, you can’t get a socket on it like my 90. So in situ, I removed the 4 bolts holding the ball on… which you can’t get to without disassembling the A-arms from the ball joint to rotate out of the way…. Next time, I do it that way!l (Like I have a choice…lol). Walked my knee on frame tie-down in process hard enough that may have cracked patella or something…. Always something!

But main tank is installed, as well as the tank skid (Thanks Zack and Rovers North!).
View attachment 23303
the Aux fuel tank has an equalizing hose that connects via a 90 connector into the tank drain visible on left side bottom of tank. Horrible idea. My skid on my 90 sees scrape time in CO and Moab, so that won’t fly. Had a bung tig welded on the side of tank about an inch up to a flat spot—now nothing hangs down:
View attachment 23304
on opposite side, another was tigged in for the Thermotop C coolant heater:
View attachment 23305
intentionally kept a little higher to avoid any potential issues drawing too much fuel and to avoid sediment.
View attachment 23306View attachment 23307View attachment 23308
next up is the Aux tank and then over to buddies to hopefully make the tie/drag links And drink a little bourbon…

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Next time I'm doing the sals a frame just use a standard height 12pt chrome socket on the ball joint big nut. It will fit and save you time. That being said I have a set of Astro ultra low profile impact rated sockets just for stuff like this to make it even easier.


I may have had to buy a separate socket just for this I can't remember tho

I really need to get my aux fuel tank in. I have a plastic tank so I still need to figure out what bulkhead fitting I’ll use

I’m pretty well stocked on sockets and I tried them all. I’d be very surprised—I’ll shoot a photo later. If special, maybe. I’m sure I could get something to fit but It’s not a huge detour, just “one more thing” my wife would say…. I was just venting

It’s the cover that’s fouling the socket. Which was why the disassembly. 6 of one…



I didn’t get to installing the Aux tank but I did aerate my lawn! Better yet, stopped by my buddy’s and got the front HD tie/drag links made including the LH and RH threaded weld-in inserts for the adjustable ends. I really spectated but super cool and we just have a blast whenever we hang. Brought Laphroaig, and time well spent. I never have enough time with my buds, trying to change that. So COOL—will get those done and welded up soon. Maybe tomorrow…