I’m going to try two gaskets and see if that makes a difference. I hope I don’t have to do it again anytime soon as getting to those bolts straight up sucked.
What have you done to your DEFENDER today?
- Thread starter javelinadave
- Start date
Personally I'm switching my engine rebuild to an electric vac pump for this reason. I even considered a belt/pulley-operated Moroso billet version but want a cleaner engine bay look and function for working on it.
The LR location for the cam-actuated unit is simply too difficult to reach (repeatedly) if you have to keep swapping them out after everything is buttoned back up.
That said, based on relatively recent reviews, you don't want anything to do with Wabco - from any vendor - and Unipump from Britpart seems to fare better.
YMMV.
The LR location for the cam-actuated unit is simply too difficult to reach (repeatedly) if you have to keep swapping them out after everything is buttoned back up.
That said, based on relatively recent reviews, you don't want anything to do with Wabco - from any vendor - and Unipump from Britpart seems to fare better.
YMMV.
If it wasn't for the immovable bracket for the air cleaner, changing it out would be a piece of cake. I think if I do end up having to do this again, looking into electric pumps is probably the way to go.Personally I'm switching my engine rebuild to an electric vac pump for this reason. I even considered a belt/pulley-operated Moroso billet version but want a cleaner engine bay look and function for working on it.
The LR location for the cam-actuated unit is simply too difficult to reach (repeatedly) if you have to keep swapping them out after everything is buttoned back up.
That said, based on relatively recent reviews, you don't want anything to do with Wabco - from any vendor - and Unipump from Britpart seems to fare better.
YMMV.
MountainD
Technical Excellence Contributor
I want to do an electric vac pump for my LS. What did you go with/what is a good electric vac pump?Personally I'm switching my engine rebuild to an electric vac pump for this reason. I even considered a belt/pulley-operated Moroso billet version but want a cleaner engine bay look and function for working on it.
The LR location for the cam-actuated unit is simply too difficult to reach (repeatedly) if you have to keep swapping them out after everything is buttoned back up.
That said, based on relatively recent reviews, you don't want anything to do with Wabco - from any vendor - and Unipump from Britpart seems to fare better.
YMMV.
Mirrajumper
Well-known member
What’s going on with those front turrets ? Sexy!
Z.G
Well-known member
Those are the RTE 1/2" conversion towers, I had Simon send me a bare set and had them galvanized with everything else. They're super nice but you can't run the wheelarch suspension covers with them
Mirrajumper
Well-known member
Beach run
Mirrajumper
Well-known member
Z.G
Well-known member
I convert all my vehicles to 1/2" - 1/2" shocks, I just prefer the simplicity and never had a failure compared to the many I've seen with studs.
It allows you to run basically any universal shock in any length or valving you'd like
SaintPanzer
Well-known member
What did I do to my Defender? Well, yesterday I did something to generate a huge brake fluid leak on the left front side. Today I get to pull it apart to see just what is going wrong. Zack, you'll be getting a phone call soon. I'm hoping it's just blown seals on the pistons, or maybe a leak in the line. We'll see.
SaintPanzer
Well-known member
Didn't make the call because by the time I got it all apart and cleaned up, it was just about 5PM on the east coast, so I'll call tomorrow.
It looks like the brake pipe from the flexible hose to the caliper cracked. For all I know, I kinked it two years ago when I put in new swivel balls, and my incompetence came back to haunt me. I'm just hoping the part I found on the web site will work on a UK spec (RHD) caliper as well. I'm assuming it's the one with imperial measurements, because the 12mm wrench was too big, the 10mm too small, I've never seen an 11mm wrench, and the 7/16 was a Goldilocks fit (just right!). As far as the threads go, well I don't have a gauge that fine.
As always, this has led to other problems. The (alloy/tapered) lug nuts are supposed to be 27mm, but the 27mm wrench does not really fit (including the lug wrench that came from Solihull 'way back in '98. This leads me to believe the caps come off, but I don't think they do. One socket is still attached to a nut, so I'll be ordering one of those as well. I've heard that the wrench not fitting is a sign that someone used the wrong sized wrench once... And that's likely happened over the last 26 years or so. Heck, I don't even know if it's supposed to be 27mm or 1 1/16. Most of the fasteners on the car are metric, but there's that 7/16 on the pipe, so...
There does seem to be a tool to remove the cap from the lug lock. What was interesting to me about that is it was still in an old plastic bag with a barely legible part number on it: ANR3496. This does not seem to resolve in any internet searches, but ANR3196 does. That however is a blanking plug for a receiver hitch, and my UK spec hitch has no "receiver".
It looks like the brake pipe from the flexible hose to the caliper cracked. For all I know, I kinked it two years ago when I put in new swivel balls, and my incompetence came back to haunt me. I'm just hoping the part I found on the web site will work on a UK spec (RHD) caliper as well. I'm assuming it's the one with imperial measurements, because the 12mm wrench was too big, the 10mm too small, I've never seen an 11mm wrench, and the 7/16 was a Goldilocks fit (just right!). As far as the threads go, well I don't have a gauge that fine.
As always, this has led to other problems. The (alloy/tapered) lug nuts are supposed to be 27mm, but the 27mm wrench does not really fit (including the lug wrench that came from Solihull 'way back in '98. This leads me to believe the caps come off, but I don't think they do. One socket is still attached to a nut, so I'll be ordering one of those as well. I've heard that the wrench not fitting is a sign that someone used the wrong sized wrench once... And that's likely happened over the last 26 years or so. Heck, I don't even know if it's supposed to be 27mm or 1 1/16. Most of the fasteners on the car are metric, but there's that 7/16 on the pipe, so...
There does seem to be a tool to remove the cap from the lug lock. What was interesting to me about that is it was still in an old plastic bag with a barely legible part number on it: ANR3496. This does not seem to resolve in any internet searches, but ANR3196 does. That however is a blanking plug for a receiver hitch, and my UK spec hitch has no "receiver".
WreckITFrank
Technical Excellence Contributor
That sir is a beautiful truck.
erover82
Well-known member
For brakes, I think the switch from imperial to metric brake line fittings was ‘95 with the 300Tdi. I don’t think RHD/LHD mattered for the soft sections. 7/16 sounds correct.
Made this about a million years ago:
They’ll become 26mm which is relatively uncommon. I’d pick up one of the solid lug nut options.
SaintPanzer
Well-known member
I have the 300 TDI (1998), so from what you said it should be metric. But yes, 7/16, which is imperial. I know the calipers were different between RHD and LHD (see previous posts from August), we'll see on the lines. What could possibly go wrong, right?
Video on the caps makes sense, but that's not quite the problem I had. You're showing the nuts off the truck, where it's easier to deal with them. I had issues getting them off the truck, because the wrench would not fit over the cap. I have four that were relatively painless with a 27mm socket and a breaker bar, but the 5th one was really tight. I got the nut off, but the socket is hard stuck to the bolt. Your method worked only to punch a hole in the cap, and I've still got a stuck socket. Ordering a new on (lug nut... I still have some ideas trying to get the socket off). If soaking it in Kroil fails, Into the freezer it goes, then heat to the socket. Not giving up yet. Just glad I was able to work on this at home, on a nice sunny warm day, and not with a flat tire on the side of the road, at night, in sleet. Thank God for small miracles, right?
Video on the caps makes sense, but that's not quite the problem I had. You're showing the nuts off the truck, where it's easier to deal with them. I had issues getting them off the truck, because the wrench would not fit over the cap. I have four that were relatively painless with a 27mm socket and a breaker bar, but the 5th one was really tight. I got the nut off, but the socket is hard stuck to the bolt. Your method worked only to punch a hole in the cap, and I've still got a stuck socket. Ordering a new on (lug nut... I still have some ideas trying to get the socket off). If soaking it in Kroil fails, Into the freezer it goes, then heat to the socket. Not giving up yet. Just glad I was able to work on this at home, on a nice sunny warm day, and not with a flat tire on the side of the road, at night, in sleet. Thank God for small miracles, right?
Not in my experience. I’ve seen lack of vacuum, leaks, and noise. The last one I had fail basically came apart internally and was causing a knocking noise.
Z.G
Well-known member
Personally I'd make my own jumper pipe, the LR ones are absurd money. But we do have PL versions depending on your VIN(they switched in 98, at WA159806) this would be the one
Brake Pipe Flex Hose-To-Lhf Caliper PLS501 | Rovers North - Land Rover Parts and Accessories Since 1979
Brake pipe from flex hose to left front caliper. Fits: Defender 90 '94-'95 Defender 110 Additional Images: Fits These Vehicles: Model: Notes: Defender 90 1994-95 Defender 110
WreckITFrank
Technical Excellence Contributor
I have the Eastwood flaring tool. Happy to loan it out if needed.
erover82
Well-known member
At the time we were greasing a socket internally, hammering it on, removing the lug nut 80%, working the socket off, and then spinning the nut the remaining way off by hand. Capped lug nuts are a pain and sound like jingle-bells off road. There are a few different sources for solid options.