Thanks ! Different than the J _ _ P world....Congrats on starting the journey.
Been through that a few times. Sand and clean what you can, ospho, then rattle can. Get a new seal and one piece cover plate.
Congrats and welcome to the Landy world. Now get ready to learn about science, mechanics, painting, meteorology (I don't know about you guys but my truck has its own microclimate inside, sunny outside but I still get drops of rainwater on me)Thanks ! Different than the J _ _ P world....
Seal and stainless tread plate acquired. Going to do some more cleaning - I have some "Rust kutter" I was going to try (looks like they have the same active primary component ( Phosphoric acid). Just need to flush all the Spanish dust out every void before a heavy coat of fluid film.
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NOT a commentary on the current defender, just a statement: that it is easy to like a car for a year ….I sold it*.
See my posting on the Grenadier thread.
* my '22 Defender 110, I mean... which to many of you is not a "Defender." But to me was one of the very best vehicle experiences I've ever had.
NOT a commentary on the current defender, just a statement: that it is easy to like a car for a year ….
i shouldn’t have poo-pooed anyone opinion—sorry about that. Glad you had a fantastic experience.I had it for 30,000 miles over the span of 30 months (bought in May, 2021) and it was the 78th automobile I've owned, so I will reiterate: one of the very best vehicle experiences I've ever had.
Congrats and welcome to the Landy world. Now get ready to learn about science, mechanics, painting, meteorology (I don't know about you guys but my truck has its own microclimate inside, sunny outside but I still get drops of rainwater on me)
Fighting corrosion on these things is a battle for sure, and one that could likely take its own thread outside of this one. But the short answer to what you have here is yes... Galvanic corrosion. The steel and aluminum do not like each other, and Aluminum dislikes stainless steel even more. Keep that in mind for fasteners on aluminum and or covering plates.
You will need to remove the corrosion from both materials, mechanically or chemically, or replace parts all together. If you do not remove the corrosion completely and just cover it, it will only come back under all the work you have done. The steel is straight forward but your aluminum parts are more complicated. Yes, Acid works but like Chemotherapy to Cancer it is destructive to everything but certainly removes the corrosion. you can also mechanically try to remove it with wire wheels and sanding. The idea is to turn the surface back to raw aluminum (removing the chalky white stuff). It will look like a cratered surface but you could also body fill it if that was important.
Alternatively, you can replace the parts. YRM makes some good replacement parts for this location.
Correct. Galvanic corrosion. It's an unfortunate hangover from my time in the jeep world; rust / galvanic corrosion are almost used interchangeably in my mind.... Remedies however are totally different.That’s not rust, it’s galvanic corrosion. And particularly with moisture on top such as under a mat or in carpet, it gets exasperated. In this case, it the steel under cross braces don’t help at all and are the cathodes in this equation.
Little known thing on olive oil—, it is good for aluminum and many folks store olive oil in aluminum containers.
Took the bed off the hicap. Chassis so rusty I can’t believe it didn’t collapse while driving. View attachment 28995