What have you done to your DEFENDER today?
- Thread starter javelinadave
- Start date
WreckITFrank
Technical Excellence Contributor
Congrats on starting the journey.
Been through that a few times. Sand and clean what you can, ospho, then rattle can. Get a new seal and one piece cover plate.
Been through that a few times. Sand and clean what you can, ospho, then rattle can. Get a new seal and one piece cover plate.
hillstrubl
Founding Member
Jumpseats in, bought at the jubilee from Congleton Service at their tent. It took embarrassingly long and way too many in the truck under the truck cycles, but it's finally done. Does anybody need the bench that came out? (yes I'm cutting off the excess threads on those bolts, I just need caps first)
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CTROVING
Active member
Thanks ! Different than the J _ _ P world....
Seal and stainless tread plate acquired. Going to do some more cleaning - I have some "Rust kutter" I was going to try (looks like they have the same active primary component ( Phosphoric acid). Just need to flush all the Spanish dust out every void before a heavy coat of fluid film.
vtlandrover
Well-known member
I sold it*.
See my posting on the Grenadier thread.
* my '22 Defender 110, I mean... which to many of you is not a "Defender." But to me was one of the very best vehicle experiences I've ever had.
See my posting on the Grenadier thread.
* my '22 Defender 110, I mean... which to many of you is not a "Defender." But to me was one of the very best vehicle experiences I've ever had.
SaintPanzer
Well-known member
Frenglish
Well-known member
Congrats and welcome to the Landy world. Now get ready to learn about science, mechanics, painting, meteorology (I don't know about you guys but my truck has its own microclimate inside, sunny outside but I still get drops of rainwater on me)
Fighting corrosion on these things is a battle for sure, and one that could likely take its own thread outside of this one. But the short answer to what you have here is yes... Galvanic corrosion. The steel and aluminum do not like each other, and Aluminum dislikes stainless steel even more. Keep that in mind for fasteners on aluminum and or covering plates.
You will need to remove the corrosion from both materials, mechanically or chemically, or replace parts all together. If you do not remove the corrosion completely and just cover it, it will only come back under all the work you have done. The steel is straight forward but your aluminum parts are more complicated. Yes, Acid works but like Chemotherapy to Cancer it is destructive to everything but certainly removes the corrosion. you can also mechanically try to remove it with wire wheels and sanding. The idea is to turn the surface back to raw aluminum (removing the chalky white stuff). It will look like a cratered surface but you could also body fill it if that was important.
Alternatively, you can replace the parts. YRM makes some good replacement parts for this location.
MountainD
Technical Excellence Contributor
NOT a commentary on the current defender, just a statement: that it is easy to like a car for a year ….
vtlandrover
Well-known member
I had it for 30,000 miles over the span of 30 months (bought in May, 2021) and it was the 78th automobile I've owned, so I will reiterate: one of the very best vehicle experiences I've ever had.
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I’m doing an almost complete rewire on my 110. The instrument panel illumination circuit melted on a trip last year (nearly a fire), so I decided to replace the body harness. While I was in there and had everything apart I decided to rewire all of the accessories.
This is the factory wiring that I removed. I’m sure other wires were partially melted during the thermal event, so replacement was necessary.
Oddly, the pile of after market wiring was a bit bigger. Some of it was fine, some not so much. I have a specific way I wire things and sometimes it’s easier to start with a clean slate
The new harness is already in and the dash is going back together. I need to make a sub harness for the instrument panel since it’s all VDO gauges, but I should have it mostly together tomorrow unless I decide to tackle the fuel tank instead. More on that later
This is the factory wiring that I removed. I’m sure other wires were partially melted during the thermal event, so replacement was necessary.
Oddly, the pile of after market wiring was a bit bigger. Some of it was fine, some not so much. I have a specific way I wire things and sometimes it’s easier to start with a clean slate
The new harness is already in and the dash is going back together. I need to make a sub harness for the instrument panel since it’s all VDO gauges, but I should have it mostly together tomorrow unless I decide to tackle the fuel tank instead. More on that later
My next project, that I started at the same time as the wiring repairs, is to install a NOS Mantec auxiliary fuel tank. This tank is unique in that it is cut out for the roll cage. Its also a fill through design that requires a balance pipe from the factory tank and the aux tank. It is designed to work with a steel tank and the balance pipe would install in place of the factory fuel tank drain plug. The issue for me is that at some point my 110 was converted to a plastic tank.
I removed the plastic tank to discover it had been installed very differently than I usually do when I do this conversion.
The installer used a piece of angle iron to utilize the studs in the fuel tank skid plate. Normally these would go through the rear cross member, so this left the tank sitting very low.
Instead of using nutserts on the front side, they instead put in a long bolt to create a stud which they welded in place.
They also left out the top strap which means the fuel tank could bounce around while driving. But they did install a piece of pool noodle to stop the vibrations (apologies for insufficient Rolex content).
My original plan was to weld the front bracket back onto the chassis (taken from a parts car), but I later discovered they had really hacked up the rear crossmember. My options now are to install a new rear crossmember to fit the steel tank, or go back with the plastic tank. If I go back with the plastic tank, I will have to drill a hole in it and hope the bulkhead fitting I have for the balance pipe seals properly. Neither is ideal. If I go back to the plastic tank it is going to take some modifications to make this JSQ receiver and Dixon Bate tow jaw work.
I removed the plastic tank to discover it had been installed very differently than I usually do when I do this conversion.
The installer used a piece of angle iron to utilize the studs in the fuel tank skid plate. Normally these would go through the rear cross member, so this left the tank sitting very low.
Instead of using nutserts on the front side, they instead put in a long bolt to create a stud which they welded in place.
They also left out the top strap which means the fuel tank could bounce around while driving. But they did install a piece of pool noodle to stop the vibrations (apologies for insufficient Rolex content).
My original plan was to weld the front bracket back onto the chassis (taken from a parts car), but I later discovered they had really hacked up the rear crossmember. My options now are to install a new rear crossmember to fit the steel tank, or go back with the plastic tank. If I go back with the plastic tank, I will have to drill a hole in it and hope the bulkhead fitting I have for the balance pipe seals properly. Neither is ideal. If I go back to the plastic tank it is going to take some modifications to make this JSQ receiver and Dixon Bate tow jaw work.
MountainD
Technical Excellence Contributor
i shouldn’t have poo-pooed anyone opinion—sorry about that. Glad you had a fantastic experience.
CTROVING
Active member
Diving deeper into the galvanic rust in the bed of my 90 does not appear to be all that bad - 120 grit on the palm sander knocked down the oxidation and found "pure" Aluminum again. I'm going to get into the tighter spaces with the wire wheel in the coming days before I chemically treat it, then paint. If it acts up in the next 2-3 years I'lI heed your advise and simply pull the floor out and start over. I'm 95% sure this was caused by what ever was transported in the bed (used on an olive farm). Rust typically come from the outside in, not from the inside of the vehicle to the outside
Attachments
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MountainD
Technical Excellence Contributor
That’s not rust, it’s galvanic corrosion. And particularly with moisture on top such as under a mat or in carpet, it gets exasperated. In this case, it the steel under cross braces don’t help at all and are the cathodes in this equation.
Little known thing on olive oil—, it is good for aluminum and many folks store olive oil in aluminum containers.
Little known thing on olive oil—, it is good for aluminum and many folks store olive oil in aluminum containers.
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CTROVING
Active member
Correct. Galvanic corrosion. It's an unfortunate hangover from my time in the jeep world; rust / galvanic corrosion are almost used interchangeably in my mind.... Remedies however are totally different.
Underneath everything looks really tidy. The cross bars look good. Fluid film goes on soon.
supertreeman
Well-known member
Took the bed off the hicap. Chassis so rusty I can’t believe it didn’t collapse while driving.
erover82
Well-known member
Nice shop! I like how it leads straight to a water fording test.