What have you done to your DEFENDER today?

erover82

erover82

Well-known member
evilfij said:
I said not expensive. 🤣
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The appearance and/or performance of every other LED option sucks, so I'd say they're relatively inexpensive in that for the same (or less) expense, you actually get a product that's decent. If they had Stahlwille printed on the lens you'd be all over them like a nun in a cucumber patch. If you want cheap, go for 100w Halogens and a headlamp relay setup.
 
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evilfij

evilfij

Well-known member
I got the LWB inspected and ordered her a starter (after buying a $179 battery to limited avail I decided on the $80 Amazon special after I could not immediately locate the one I pulled off the engine on my back porch). She seems to start one time out of four. I hope it’s not the ignition switch …. AND THE LEAK IS WORKING AC :) PS does anyone make floor pans for RRC yet? I now have a welder again (person, not machine)
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jymmiejamz

jymmiejamz

Founding Member
Callsign: KN4JHI
erover82 said:
In what ways are the genuine tops better than both options?
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The SP ones slide really poorly, almost impossible to open and close (have only used one set).

When you call Rocky Mount to order the door tops the guy explains that the build quality isn’t great, but they function fine and have sold a ton. The last set I used had broken and mismatched screws holding the channels for the seals in place. The welds are also not great. For the price, they’re great and they slide really well.

One thing that makes the genuine ones superior in design is that they can lock in any position. The RM ones will slam forwards and backwards under heavy acceleration or breaking when they are not latched.
 
evilfij

evilfij

Well-known member
Night work, total time 38 minutes (six email answered during time spent). In keeping with my ghetto light theme (see $14 third brake light) I needed reflectors and as much as I love Zack (I really do) I did not want to spend close to $50 on a pair of genuine ones so I installed the cheapest stick on ones on Amazon ($3.66 for the pair I think) they fit great and look the part (pics when it’s not dark) while I was there I reinstalled the bent rusty light gaurds as they extra holes were driving me nuts (I did spray paint them and clean them up a bit). Then I tried to spruce her up a bit by removing and scrubbing the sunvisors. They were dirty even for me. They look as new now.

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PS yes, I am procrastinating from doing the bulkhead and tub cappings. If I do a couple 16 hour days over a weekend I think I can do it. Also, apparently I previously figured out how to mount the wiper motor and boxes because there is one on it, but it’s under my 59 so I will see what I have when I dig it out …. I seem to recall it involving washers ….
 
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evilfij

evilfij

Well-known member
Back at it for an hour (WFH and the ability to throw on a polo for zoom calls makes it easy to work on rovers). $3.66 reflector. Installed rear carpet out of a NAS110 (seat belt bolts slid out and still had the cad plating — love the lack of rust), put my diesel only label on (with the old screws) pics of the rear light gaurds, plugged another random hole (I love plastic plug kits), need to drive her around some more to burn some diesel to install the fuel sender kit. Also need to make up my mind on a middle row mat. I don’t like the NAS era ones without carpet under them so thinking exmoor but RN is out of stock.
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WreckITFrank

WreckITFrank

Technical Excellence Contributor
I find it disturbing that you didn't yet paint the cross member tab black. You are really classing up the old boy.

I believe those bolts for the filler are 2BA x 3/8, or part 77941 if you want to get serious with it. I think I got some M5's from belmetric when i replaced mine.
 
evilfij

evilfij

Well-known member
I will paint them after I weld the crossmember rust holes which I will do in connection with fitting the rear step bumper Frank has that is getting galvanized. If I paint them, then the truck is done so I am holding off. And Elon is a girl (like all my vehicles).
 
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