What have you done to your DEFENDER today?

[supertreeman]

So I installed the seatbox mat from wright offroad exmoor. I wish not wish that task on my worst enemy. It is so hard to cut and the guide marks are useless (I checked before cutting thankfully). I am so tired I did not take pics. But it looks great. I also installed some 97 SW front seats I have been hoarding for eons and put the old stained badger covers on them so she still looks like crap.

I also ordered a bunch of parts from Zach (or Zack I don’t actually know) and my stainless door top studs arrived from AB.

Who thinks I can do the tub cappings without removing the roof? I think I might be able to with the aid of a Jack and some jackassery.

I replaced mine without taking off the roof. Used some tall screw jack stands to lift it up enough to get it all apart..Of course after all that, I ended up taking the roof off later on down the line anyway..

 

[evilfij]

I replaced mine without taking off the roof. Used some tall screw jack stands to lift it up enough to get it all apart..Of course after all that, I ended up taking the roof off later on down the line anyway..

That’s what I plan to do. The complicating factor is I have the safety devices internal/external cage so I am not sure how much flex I can get without pulling the front of the cage. If I have to pull the cage, I am doing the bulkhead.

 

[John Z]

I got Elon the 110 (she is from Africa but white hence the name) back from the shop getting her Salisbury pinion flange installed. Then I installed my $14 third brake light, consistent with my interior LED dome light (harbor freight freebie), put the middle part of the Wright offroad mat in (the pedal stop was catching so I taped the mat down) and removed the rear mudflaps and whacked the crossmember to free the rust. Need to do the seatbox and swap in some nicer seats, but it is hot outside and I only got about 60 minutes away from work, work. I am going to probably pull her in and do the bulkhead when it cools down and I am saving the bulkhead piece for then.

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Think you're supposed to notch the mat, technically unless you adjusted the set bolt on the pedal you may not be getting full travel.

Also, I ended up making the mat removable because I kept accumulating water under them and it wouldn't dry.

 

[evilfij]

Nah. No need for a notch. On a stock bulkhead it won’t cause issues with the pedal, but on mine someone glued insulation over rust so it’s a bit too high.

 

[evilfij]

I spent 45 minutes scraping the packing tape residue off my new galvanized cappings (by the way goo gone and a plastic razor blade works best). Then I installed a new gas cap (non-locking) and shift knob.

 

[evilfij]

I also installed the rear sill plate that holds the seal at the back of the tub and I twin gripped out the sawzalled off studs in a set of door tops (BTW the price of new door tops is insane $1300 each).

 

[jymmiejamz]

I also installed the rear sill plate that holds the seal at the back of the tub and I twin gripped out the sawzalled off studs in a set of door tops (BTW the price of new door tops is insane $1300 each).

View attachment 24893

I’ve been using door tops from Rocky Mount Off-road and having them powder coated black

 

[evilfij]

I’ve been using door tops from Rocky Mount Off-road and having them powder coated black

I have more than enough sets of genuine. I was just surprised is all. I have seen the RM and they are ok.

More fun.
Plate surround (gift from dealer)

More work from this morning. Pulled the interior trim. BTW if you have an internal cage, short of removing it or the roof (which is impossible with the trim in) you have to hack them up (previous owner had already done so.

Shift knob SO MUCH WIN I DONT CARE IF I BURN OR FREEZE MY HAND.

Rear sill from last night

Gas cap. I was sent slotted screws rather than PZ so that’s on my Zack call agenda, but I am going to replace the screws and have a new warning label to fit.

 

[evilfij]

I installed new trim finisher for the lower dash on both the NAS 90 and 110

 

[evilfij]

Taped up 90% of the stupid LED license plate light so it does not look like I am being tailgated by someone with their brights on

 

[JimC]

Taped up 90% of the stupid LED license plate light so it does not look like I am being tailgated by someone with their brights on

I’ll just come tailgate you with my brights on. Not in a Rover, something else that has bright brights and I won’t risk burning my headlight switch.

 

[jymmiejamz]

I have more than enough sets of genuine. I was just surprised is all. I have seen the RM and they are ok.

More fun.
Plate surround (gift from dealer)

View attachment 24899

More work from this morning. Pulled the interior trim. BTW if you have an internal cage, short of removing it or the roof (which is impossible with the trim in) you have to hack them up (previous owner had already done so.

View attachment 24895

Shift knob SO MUCH WIN I DONT CARE IF I BURN OR FREEZE MY HAND.

View attachment 24896

Rear sill from last night

View attachment 24897


Gas cap. I was sent slotted screws rather than PZ so that’s on my Zack call agenda, but I am going to replace the screws and have a new warning label to fit.

View attachment 24898

Yeah, the RM ones are not nearly as nice as genuine, but are much nicer than the ones from SP 4x4.

 

[evilfij]

Speaking of which. @WreckITFrank put some H4 Hellas on the 110 and I would like to put them on my LWB, anyone have a recommendation for a not expensive LED 7in headlight set that looks sort of normal?

How are the SP lower doors the galvanized ones?

 

[erover82]

Speaking of which. @WreckITFrank put some H4 Hellas on the 110 and I would like to put them on my LWB, anyone have a recommendation for a not expensive LED 7in headlight set that looks sort of normal?

How are the SP lower doors the galvanized ones?

Holley Retrobright

 

[erover82]

Yeah, the RM ones are not nearly as nice as genuine, but are much nicer than the ones from SP 4x4.

In what ways are the genuine tops better than both options?

 

[Z.G]

Gas cap. I was sent slotted screws rather than PZ so that’s on my Zack call agenda, but I am going to replace the screws and have a new warning label to fit.

They're all slotted as far as I can tell. The pre 87 parts book and 87-2006 EPC both show it the same way with no change in part #. It's very possible they changed design at some point, but all we get is the slotted ones from LR

 

[erover82]

They're all slotted as far as I can tell. The pre 87 parts book and 87-2006 EPC both show it the same way with no change in part #. It's very possible they changed design at some point, but all we get is the slotted ones from LR

They're one of those odd areas LR didn't update to metric until Td5. They're an ancient BA thread, so unless a person knows this and how to source them they often end up replaced with something else.

It's like the two blind holes under Rover diffs. They look like 3/8 standard, but they're still 3/8 BSF.

 

[Z.G]

They're one of those odd areas LR didn't update to metric until Td5. They're an ancient BA thread, so unless a person knows this and how to source them they often end up replaced with something else.

In 98 they went to a screw-less plastic tube

 

[erover82]

In 98 they went to a screw-less plastic tube

Correct, I did not mean they were ever metric, just that they were lazy about it. At least the plastic fillers don't rust.

 

[evilfij]

Holley Retrobright

I said not expensive.