What have you done to your DEFENDER today?
- Thread starter javelinadave
- Start date
TopDeadCenter
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My daily Disco has the control box simply hose clamped to the winch body itself. Has worked just fine for over a decade and no one has tried to steal it yet!
Did the previous owner have the fueling cranked way up, or was there some sort of leakage causing over fueling?
Added eXplore glazing windows! Yes I intentionally put them in backwards because I wanted to change to a pop up roof eventually and I thought I wanted the slides near the rear. I might go back and do it the right way.
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CTROVING
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Job #1 Rock slider install -
Added some grip tape -->
Job #2 Spring isolator install - quick and dirty to level out the rear after finishing the front end.
Job #3
Of course just before you plan to take a week trip in your truck the clutch master cylinder (CMC) decides to go from "casual drip" to dead...
A lot of info is out there on how to change these units. Changing it in the truck would be ridiculous. Certainly a PITA if you are not patient - Doable for LHD units without taking the wing off. Brake booster was disconnected and "gently" lifted and moved toward the passenger side 3/4" or so. Pulled the entire assembly out, removed, reinstalled the CMC, adjusted the throw on the pedal, cleaned up some exposed surfaces, bleed- done
Job #2 Spring isolator install - quick and dirty to level out the rear after finishing the front end.
Job #3
Of course just before you plan to take a week trip in your truck the clutch master cylinder (CMC) decides to go from "casual drip" to dead...
A lot of info is out there on how to change these units. Changing it in the truck would be ridiculous. Certainly a PITA if you are not patient - Doable for LHD units without taking the wing off. Brake booster was disconnected and "gently" lifted and moved toward the passenger side 3/4" or so. Pulled the entire assembly out, removed, reinstalled the CMC, adjusted the throw on the pedal, cleaned up some exposed surfaces, bleed- done
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Every time I come back to the US for a visit the drama queen 110 demands attention. This time it was U-joints. I used what was available from Napa near me which was unfortunately Chinese-made but they did at least have grease fittings. Annoyingly when I rebuilt the truck I paid to have the driveshafts rebuilt and balanced, and the clearly didnt replace the joints, this is not 12k miles of wear.
Now that we’re near end of summer, I thought it would be a great time to insulate/isolate heat sensitive components (AC lines, brake lines, ecu/pcm on 97 NAS) in & around cat & headers.
I had the ecu cover in the sun for about 20min… unshielded temp was as 80°F and shielded was high 50’s. I’ll capture data after running the truck.
Also, I should have wrapped everything in gold foil, shouldn’t I?
After:
I had the ecu cover in the sun for about 20min… unshielded temp was as 80°F and shielded was high 50’s. I’ll capture data after running the truck.
Also, I should have wrapped everything in gold foil, shouldn’t I?
After:
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Mine also had a tow last weekend. After driving a whopping 70 miles since a service that included a new fuel tank, injectors, injection pump and lift pump, it decided to shoot oil out like a garden hose the minute I parked it. Turns out the brand new vacuum pump blew out a plug and attempted to murder the engine. This truck does not want to be fixed.
This weekend I finished a two week fight against the two M12 x 180mm bulkhead to chassis bolts. They had to come out for a rock slider install.
I estimate I spent over $700 trying to get them out. New tool purchases, bottles of penetrating oil and Mapp gas will do that to 'ya.
In the end, I purchased the air hammer known as 'Big Nasty.' I should have done it sooner, because that did the trick pretty easily. The key is to heat the bulkhead sleeve where the bolt passes through. The chassis outriggers are not where the bolt is seized, as the bolt has an air gap in that area. Mine were extremely thin in the outrigger area. Rust had eaten them away. Heat the bulkhead to a glow, slap them on the threaded end with 'Big Nasty,' and out they'll pop.
I used replacement bolts from McMaster Carr in 10.9 with cad-plated nuts and washers.
I estimate I spent over $700 trying to get them out. New tool purchases, bottles of penetrating oil and Mapp gas will do that to 'ya.
In the end, I purchased the air hammer known as 'Big Nasty.' I should have done it sooner, because that did the trick pretty easily. The key is to heat the bulkhead sleeve where the bolt passes through. The chassis outriggers are not where the bolt is seized, as the bolt has an air gap in that area. Mine were extremely thin in the outrigger area. Rust had eaten them away. Heat the bulkhead to a glow, slap them on the threaded end with 'Big Nasty,' and out they'll pop.
I used replacement bolts from McMaster Carr in 10.9 with cad-plated nuts and washers.
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Nothing too crazy, but after the latch mechanism was replaced, I made a new water shield for the door, replaced the sill seal (my first time riveting anything), fixed the broken pins on the door panel and put everything back. My passengers should complain less now that they can use the window crank all on their own.
The roughest part was installing new butyl strip caulk. I’m not sure how it sticks to everything but the door metal, but good enough.
It’s taken a few years, but the 2.8 has finally been united with the other drivetrain goodies!
It all looks beautiful! Do you know the power difference between the 2.5 and 2.8?
Putting the bill Adams steering box to the test today!
Has anyone done 300tdi rod bearings? Since my vacuum pump broke about 20 miles into a 40 mile drive, I have no idea how long it ran with low oil pressure. It runs okay now with a new pump, but given the circumstances plus the miles on it (180,000) plus having some bigger trips planned, I’m going to replace the bearings. I picked up a set of NOS genuine ones, and was wondering if there is anything I should be aware of when doing the job?