Tithonus Paint

Topperkenobi

Well-known member
I think I was able to attach some pages from the Wold XD parts manual. Some of the parts needed should be there.
Anybody has any idea of more parts to look for or cheap replacement parts that would fit the same way?
They look to small. Let me get on the computer later and see if I can make them bigger and legible.
 

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nas90tdi

Well-known member
Look under the 1st sticky in Technical Discussions. Dave posted a link to an excellent part number finder. The parts you guys are asking about are not MOD specific. They are on every 110 and 90.

Try https://www.lrdirect.com/home.php to get an idea about the cost of various parts manufacturers. Shipping all the way to the PNW is about 3 days from there.
 

Topperkenobi

Well-known member
Thats a great tool!
Still new to the forums (any). Hope I can learn fast and avoid you guys from replying to lame posts.

JP
 

nas90tdi

Well-known member
We are glad to help. Everybody was a noob at one point. Imagine learning all this pre internet like a lot of us did.
 

WBSurfer

Well-known member
So brief update. Spent a good amount of time stripping this bitch down and as you can imagine I just want to replace a bunch of bits (but I'm not going to do it). Many parts will be recycled and media blasted and then powder coated prior to putting back on after paint. I've stripped many a defender before but there were some tricky (I should say royal pain in the ass bolts) to access and remove on the Tith. Still have a handful more exterior and a few interior bits to remove and then I'll have it up on jack stands blasting undercarriage for a cleaning and fogging. After that it's ready for sanding and paint! Though I have a little hole to patch on the rear crossmember but nothing too major.

Guys, getting the part numbers for your seals, etc.... is the least of your concerns taking the Tith apart. Once you take the shit apart you will know very easily what you need/want to replace. Stack it all in a pile and then spend just a little bit of time chatting with one of the reps at RN or your favorite supply house and tell them what you need.

Matt: If you plan on changing your truck to AA yellow :)confused:) then you're going to have some serious work to do if you want that kind of a color change inside and out on your tith. Certainly doable but plan for much more than you could imagine getting into. Of course this will always depend on how far you plan to go with the truck and what end result you are expecting. Anything is possible with time and money. The reason I mentioned in my initial questioning if color change was an option with this type of paint is just because I was considering (and still am) a slight change in the green so that if you're not hauling the engine, etc, etc.. then the color won't be so dramatically different like if you chose blue, red, yellow, etc.... Again, to each their own but just make sure you think that one through before getting the yellow paint:)

I'm making a few small mods as well. Removed the storage boxes on the side and they will be blasted prior to reinstall and then of course painted. But I am adding rock sliders and that involves some cutting of the box panels prior to reinstall. There was a thread on another site that was started (by me) some time ago and the thread turned up someone who had done it (I believe it was Chris Snell but not certain). Anyway, I'll be bringing that thread back to life shortly when I get to that part of this project.

I also want to replace the lights and upgrade to LEDs but that's still TBD. Still trying to figure out how the hell to get the tail lights off without cutting all the damn wires if that's even possible. Either way they will need to come off prior to spraying the back of the truck. **Anyone reading that wants to clue me in on easier way to remove those damn lights please enlighten me before I just cut the bastards** Also, if anyone has removed the 12V plug and plate from rear crossmember I'd like to know how. There are 4 10mm bolts but no nuts accessible from behind and they are not captive on the other side either. I haven't put much time on that yet but some quick info would be nice.

Cage will be on the way to blasting and powder coat next week along with a bunch of other bits.

That should do it for this brief update. Hope to have paint on it within next two weeks so I can let you guys know how it goes.
 

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nas90tdi

Well-known member
Lights have bullet connectors behind cover panel in tub. They can all be unplugged there.
As for the trailer socket. About the easiest way is grind or cut the bolt heads off. They can sometime be a bit of a pain in the ass to get off.
 

Roverman2010

Well-known member
So brief update. Spent a good amount of time stripping this bitch down and as you can imagine I just want to replace a bunch of bits (but I'm not going to do it). Many parts will be recycled and media blasted and then powder coated prior to putting back on after paint. I've stripped many a defender before but there were some tricky (I should say royal pain in the ass bolts) to access and remove on the Tith. Still have a handful more exterior and a few interior bits to remove and then I'll have it up on jack stands blasting undercarriage for a cleaning and fogging. After that it's ready for sanding and paint! Though I have a little hole to patch on the rear crossmember but nothing too major.

Guys, getting the part numbers for your seals, etc.... is the least of your concerns taking the Tith apart. Once you take the shit apart you will know very easily what you need/want to replace. Stack it all in a pile and then spend just a little bit of time chatting with one of the reps at RN or your favorite supply house and tell them what you need.

Matt: If you plan on changing your truck to AA yellow :)confused:) then you're going to have some serious work to do if you want that kind of a color change inside and out on your tith. Certainly doable but plan for much more than you could imagine getting into. Of course this will always depend on how far you plan to go with the truck and what end result you are expecting. Anything is possible with time and money. The reason I mentioned in my initial questioning if color change was an option with this type of paint is just because I was considering (and still am) a slight change in the green so that if you're not hauling the engine, etc, etc.. then the color won't be so dramatically different like if you chose blue, red, yellow, etc.... Again, to each their own but just make sure you think that one through before getting the yellow paint:)

I'm making a few small mods as well. Removed the storage boxes on the side and they will be blasted prior to reinstall and then of course painted. But I am adding rock sliders and that involves some cutting of the box panels prior to reinstall. There was a thread on another site that was started (by me) some time ago and the thread turned up someone who had done it (I believe it was Chris Snell but not certain). Anyway, I'll be bringing that thread back to life shortly when I get to that part of this project.

I also want to replace the lights and upgrade to LEDs but that's still TBD. Still trying to figure out how the hell to get the tail lights off without cutting all the damn wires if that's even possible. Either way they will need to come off prior to spraying the back of the truck. **Anyone reading that wants to clue me in on easier way to remove those damn lights please enlighten me before I just cut the bastards** Also, if anyone has removed the 12V plug and plate from rear crossmember I'd like to know how. There are 4 10mm bolts but no nuts accessible from behind and they are not captive on the other side either. I haven't put much time on that yet but some quick info would be nice.

Cage will be on the way to blasting and powder coat next week along with a bunch of other bits.

That should do it for this brief update. Hope to have paint on it within next two weeks so I can let you guys know how it goes.
If you are not reusing those rear lamps I'll pay postage?
 

nas90tdi

Well-known member
You need MOD lamps Roverman? I have a box of them. I would have to sort through and see what shape they are in.
 

WBSurfer

Well-known member
You need MOD lamps Roverman? I have a box of them. I would have to sort through and see what shape they are in.

Did you end up replacing your mod lamps and put in LEDs? If so, plug and play or did you have to some wiring adjustments to make?
 

nas90tdi

Well-known member
I switched to all LED. They are not plug and play with the MOD trucks. Very simple swap however. I cut and reused all my bullet connections from the MOD lights. I used a marine crimp with sealant and heat shrink on all the connections. You will swap out the turn signal relay with the electronic one. You might still have some blinker issues as the LED only needs microvolts to flash, so sometimes all the signal lights will flash from bleed over through the dash indicator lamp. Several ways to overcome this. Easiest fix is buy a LED resistor and put it in line at rear ones behind the cover. It's a very common fix on bikes, they love to bleed over voltage on the blinkers and do odd stuff.
 

Mdubs

Well-known member
Shit,
Now I'm back to thinking this is over my head again... Great thread though, looking forward to learning more and seeing how it turns out. Thanks for the updates.
 

WBSurfer

Well-known member
Shit,
Now I'm back to thinking this is over my head again... Great thread though, looking forward to learning more and seeing how it turns out. Thanks for the updates.

Don't overthink it Matt. You can do it. Just plan for the truck being out of commission for awhile. In reality it's all about how far you plan to take your paint project. The more you disassemble the more you will likely run into things you will want to replace because of it's condition. I can tell you that once you make the move to start disassembly you are committed! Paint is one of those things that almost forces you to do more than you may initially have wanted to do. So as long as you stay focused and make reasonable decisions about your overall outcome then you should be able to do the job.
 

nas90tdi

Well-known member
Very good advice. Make a decision before you start how far you are willing to go, and then plan for another 15% because it is a Rover. But, stick to it. Make those "it's good enough" calls if you are not doing a complete rebuild. Otherwise your truck turns into a pile of parts in the shop floor. It is impossible to get restoration quality results without the actual restoration, so ,don't attempt it. Make is look awesome for what it is, bet never think it's going to be perfect without a disassembly.

And, keep reminding yourself,"It's a high speed tractor with a garden shed mounted on it" .let's not get too excited.
 

Mdubs

Well-known member
Chris,
Any pics on how this one turned out? I have changed my mind to Marine Blue rather than AA yellow. Still don't think I could do this on my own though...
 

Uncle Douglas

Well-known member
Callsign: delete
Fwiw I recently had a tithonus body media blasted. Sanding these trucks flattens out the rivet heads and its very difficult to get clean corners around capings etc because of how the military paint was applied over and over again.
The blaster used very fine crushed glass suspended in water. This keeps the surface being blasted cool so no warping and the result was bare metal quickly. The media blast also removes body filler which there is usually a lot of on the tithonus trucks. I ended up ordering to outer wing skins and both doors once I could see what we had.
The painter was thrilled with the stripped body work.
 

chris snell

Administrator
Callsign: NW5W
Staff member
Nice, Doug. Can you post pics? This is what I wish I had done with my truck when I rebuilt it. Didn't have time, unfortunately.
 

Topperkenobi

Well-known member
I've been patching up the paint on my Tith with the Sherwin Williams Commercial Metal Paint. In some areas, where there are different layers of paint / filler, it doesn't look that great. But it's better than paint chipping off. You can see that on the first pic, where you can actually see what Doug points out. Rivets look different depending on how many layers of paint the truck has.
When I got to the doors, after sanding not so many layers, it actually looks great (second pic).
But thanks for the sand blast info. I was getting hesitant about how much paint you can actually remove. I guess you actually have to get a professional that can use cristal rather than the synthetic stuff. I am thinking of working on a nicer paint job after I transplant my 300 TDI.

JP
 

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Uncle Douglas

Well-known member
Callsign: delete
Nice, Doug. Can you post pics? This is what I wish I had done with my truck when I rebuilt it. Didn't have time, unfortunately.

Truck was disassembled and he shot the parts on saw horses or laying on a pallet. This was weekend before last, it's now all with the painter. I may have some I took of the tithonus doors and fender skins that looked great before blasting and clearly needed replacement once blasted.

Did a set of the NAS 110 6.5 inch wheels and a Perentie cage and hoop-set as well
 

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nas90tdi

Well-known member
I was wondering how that system worked. I have watched all the videos, but, lot's of marketing spin on those. Very cool it worked so well.
 

nas90tdi

Well-known member
This is a good example of why I used that SW paint on my Tithonus.
Before and after pictures of the trail pinstrip after this last weekend.
All I did was wash it and spend about 15 minutes with a 3M finishing/glazing compound.
 

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