Some good progress,
Timing chest cleaned up and new cam sprocket and crank seals pressed in - I like the OEM stuff because it comes greased.
I’ve added a longer camshaft gear bolt - I made sure the bolt was able to screw all the way into the nose of the cam to ensure it wouldn’t “bottom out”.
New retaining plate for the cam as well
A tip for anyone resealing their timing chest - pay attention to where this circular seal is - mine was on the bottom hole, but should’ve been on the top. Looks like depending on the year/defender or disco, it could be either hole. Apparently this area is a common oil leak culprit and I believe it caused some of the oil seepage I found in the timing belt area.
New camshaft sprocket/gear - I first ordered one from Turner - it arrived quickly but teeth had been damaged as it wasn’t packed well - so I ordered an OEM one stateside (dumb expensive) and it also arrived damaged/not packed well. I used a jewelers file to clean up the teeth.
I noticed my crank gear also had some damaged teeth which I believe caused the “belt dust” in the timing case and the heavily worn belt at the rear. Check the condition of your teeth in here.
For some reason the OEM cam gear didn’t have the timing indent, so I marked the same tooth as the original in relation to the woodruff key.
Checked cylinder head with a straight edge and feeler gauge - nice and flat.
Cylinder head, block and pistons/combustion chambers very carefully cleaned and decarbonized. (I didn’t take a final picture)
Test fitting new metal head gasket (I know many prefer the cheaper/more forgiving fiber - we’ll see)
New head bolts as I was unsure how many times the previous were used (can only be used up to 3 times) I use a single dot for the initial torque, another dot for the first 60* and then a final line after tightened the second 60* - avoids confusion.
New harmonic balancer and pulley as well.
The only uncertainty I’ve had thus far is the slight play allowed with the injection pump gear - has almost a full tooth of play either way and could easily be advanced or retarded while the timing pin is in. I used the original yellow mark someone had on here.