Recent content by Airbalancer

Replaced a leaky p seal. And fixed an oil leak from the turbo return line. Found it was put on without a gasket.

Front differential removed from a 1988 110 for rebuild. Approx. 130k miles on it. $100

I have a set of new genuine ones for sale. Although you can get the aftermarket brands for a lot less.

If you have the Defender parts catalog it lists all the parts you need for a stock bolt on option. A bit more money but no guesswork involved. I

Looks like they got em :) http://www.king5.com/mobile/article/news/crime/package-theft-suspect-who-took-bad-fall-in-bothell-arrested/281-512145265

It’s yours. Thanks

I changed over the ignition switch in my 1988 110 to a later type so the key matches the doors. Does anyone want or need the old one for a spare? Has two keys and worked fine. 10 bucks shipped.

I would have a go at repairing that one first. You would need to weld on a new piece anyway.

Looks like it just pulls out. Could it be just stuck?

http://new.lrcat.com/#!/1235 Here is a link to the online parts catalog I got from Doug.

Just a quick update on these doors. I have ordered all the parts to go with them and it was just over 4K. Most of it was from LRdirect and the glass and some other misc. parts from RN. Oh yeah that does not include the door cards:( But they are nice :)

Spray WD40 down the guides. Worked on mine:)

I picked up set of the puma doors from SP4x4 today that we ordered a couple months ago. Well worth the wait IMO. The only reason it took so long was a delay getting one of them from Land Rover. They had a couple shipping options and we chose to pick them up at the airport which was considerably...

I use the Ram mounts with the surface mounting plate. I drilled and tapped a piece of aluminum and made a backing plate then screwed it through the vent holes. It's pretty sturdy and no drilling required.

Pro clip lists a mount on their UK site. I have not seen the defender version but I do have one in my F150 work truck and it's really nice, rock solid.