What have you done to your DEFENDER today?
- Thread starter javelinadave
- Start date
SaintPanzer
Well-known member
Moved back to the US...
rocky
NAS-ROW Addict
Having tired of UHaul trailers, got my own. Got a good selection of straps and a spare wheel and tire for the new trailer. The trailer, F150 and Defender all use different lug nut sockets so added a set of non marring sockets with 19,21 and 27mm.
It’s not just regional Rover trips, working on heading to Colorado next July.
It’s not just regional Rover trips, working on heading to Colorado next July.
turbodizzle
Active member
Any more details on this aux tank?
LRNAD90
Well-known member
Going to guess it is a 15 Gal NAS style rear tank, factory tanks on most ROW trucks were under the passenger (or driver depending on RH/LHD) seat, thought I thought they were more like 14 Gallon..
rocky
NAS-ROW Addict
It has a lock. Hopefully one that is way better than the stuff you find on Amazon & Home Despot.Put a lock on it. Ask me how I came to offering this advice...
SCRover
Well-known member
She probably just wanted to pee on it.
dkemm
Well-known member
I cant remember if I posted here...but I posted on my IG. @Braveheart_D90
I did a chassis swap and installed a CJ-5 15gal tank. There are 3 flavors...I went with the version with a 1" inlet and 5/8" vent.
(I didnt go NAS tank...mostly due to the expense....as my 90 is far from stock...I wasnt so torn up by not going with LR parts.)
I had to create a bracket on the rear cross member where the tank sits / bolts to...for the front I have tilting brackets on each side that cradle the front and bolt to the frame.
I created a Tee in my fill hose - 2.25x2.25x1" for fill. If I drain the tank...patience is key to fill the aux tank as the fill hose is small and up high.
I have a small 12v pump that fills the main tank via the return line, using a blue sea digital fuel gauge.
Also...I did go with aluminum skid plate to protect the tank - but had to trim the back of it about 2-3" from the bend to provide clearance to the tank.
Tank is dorman, sender kit for the tank - I did go with fuel transfer hose (steel core) as locating quality 1" fuel line is difficult (have lots of extra)
Happy to dig up pix or answer questions....I dont think I did a specific write up...as I got the idea from someone else...their mounts were a little different. (here or other forum).
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MountainD
Technical Excellence Contributor
I have the aux wheel well tank (Brit part/whoever they private label) and couldn’t take the output on bottom. Decided to start with fresh tank when I swapped the R2.8 and tig welded in a couple bungs for the Webasto heater and aux fuel tank. Nothing sticks down lower than skid. Shouldn’t have had to. Stupid design, friggin lazy.
SaintPanzer
Well-known member
I did promise a photo, so:
Just outside one of my old haunts in Annapolis.
To make this fit under "what did you do...", started coating the front bumper bolts with penetrating oil for a future brush bar installation... hope to have that done in about two weeks or so.
dkemm
Well-known member
I Agree about Zack & RN. He was super helpful on my Marsland chassis process
hillstrubl
Founding Member
Finally put on the wiring harness I made to convert Euro 7-pin to US 4-pin. I had to add this to make this actually function correctly. But something is still weird. When I tested the pins with a test light on the 4-pin side all seemed well. running, stop, left, right, etc. But when plugged in to my LED 2" received light, only the running light works and when the brake pedal is hit, it goes off entirely? I guess that's better than nothing?
(Embedding isn't working for some reason, here's the video
(Embedding isn't working for some reason, here's the video
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dkemm
Well-known member
What happens if you connect a trailer? will hitting the brakes shut off all the lights? (thats not good). also...the amazon link states not for LED...but your reciever light is LED (is it not?)
hillstrubl
Founding Member
I think you may have solved it... I bet that's the entire issue LED vs not LED for the light. I'm going to add a small resistor to the ground on the 4 pin side and see what happens. (I don't have a trailer to test it with, but my non-LED test light appeared to be working as it should)