What have you done to your DEFENDER today?
- Thread starter javelinadave
- Start date
4RF RDS
Well-known member
If you have no plans to remove the sides seal them up. I have done this to all my Land Rovers over the years. Works great.
MountainD
Technical Excellence Contributor
I already used 3m strip caulk on the corners and plan to do the top. I have the seals to replace them, but will wait till I have to remove headliner. No plans this year at least!
SCRover
Well-known member
New hinges. One of the most satisfying fixes I've made. So nice to be able to close the door with two fingers instead of having to slam it or lift up on the handle to compensate for worn hinges.
For those of you considering this - do it. Not nearly as hard as it may seem. I did have to drill out a couple screws but they came out pretty easy once the heads were off.
A couple notes: Do one hinge at a time. All the adjustment is in the bulkhead side of the hinge. Install those screws snug but not tight, adjust your door fit, then tighten. I've never done this before on any vehicle and it went back together super easy and closes nice and smooth. Also, when you order your hinges get some spare fir tree fasteners for the door panels. I always break a couple taking them off. (As a rule, if its plastic and I have to take it off to repair something else, I plan on it breaking during the removal process.) Maybe also replace the strikers. Mine were pretty beat up because the door was sagging.
For those of you considering this - do it. Not nearly as hard as it may seem. I did have to drill out a couple screws but they came out pretty easy once the heads were off.
A couple notes: Do one hinge at a time. All the adjustment is in the bulkhead side of the hinge. Install those screws snug but not tight, adjust your door fit, then tighten. I've never done this before on any vehicle and it went back together super easy and closes nice and smooth. Also, when you order your hinges get some spare fir tree fasteners for the door panels. I always break a couple taking them off. (As a rule, if its plastic and I have to take it off to repair something else, I plan on it breaking during the removal process.) Maybe also replace the strikers. Mine were pretty beat up because the door was sagging.
UnfrozenCaveman
Well-known member
Noticed that the instrument cowl was broken near the heater controls!
But, I had a metal one on the shelf (dated 09/2010!).
So, replaced it...man, what an improvement! No, that's not the final alignmemt
But, I had a metal one on the shelf (dated 09/2010!).
So, replaced it...man, what an improvement! No, that's not the final alignmemt
Last edited:
hillstrubl
Founding Member
New Tierod ends and RN HD bars.
Now I think either my battery or alternator (both not too old) are bad... trickle charging the battery now to rule that out first.
Voltmeter was moving between 11.9 and 12.4V as I drove. Its usually at 14.3-14.4
Now I think either my battery or alternator (both not too old) are bad... trickle charging the battery now to rule that out first.
Voltmeter was moving between 11.9 and 12.4V as I drove. Its usually at 14.3-14.4
hillstrubl
Founding Member
Yeah... I think so too. Ugh.
Easy fix. Just make sure you slide the bushing over before bolting it in.
I feel like I saw someone selling 100 amp units somewhere.
LRNAD90
Well-known member
MountainD
Technical Excellence Contributor
I think he partially threaded one side first. I’d equalize, personally.Is there enough thread left on there?
hillstrubl
Founding Member
yeah, I'm going to fix, it came back from the alignment shop like that unfortunately
MountainD
Technical Excellence Contributor
If it’s aligned, and you’re happy with how it handles, make two marks on tie rod ends and get a good measurement of separation. Match that when reinstalling.
hillstrubl
Founding Member
Replaced bum alternator at @supertreeman's house today with new Hella unit. All is well after a 2.5 hour drive to the Poconos later today.
dkemm
Well-known member
Finished my Ministry of Defender AC/Heater install.
version 5.0 of my R2.8 cooling package to accommodate the condenser and fan.
- had to create a new FMIC and condenser bracket to keep the whole thing in the standard (non AC) front cowl)
Custom printed ducts and manifolds for interior vents - including passenger side window defrost
- grate for kick panel, manifold for bulkhead, 2.5" vent ducts, 1.75" defrost ducts, custom lower dash vent (custom keychain too)
Not 100% sure on the dash remodel...but it works and as its ABS - was relatively easy to work with.
- custom panels for vents to mount on and hide duct work
version 5.0 of my R2.8 cooling package to accommodate the condenser and fan.
- had to create a new FMIC and condenser bracket to keep the whole thing in the standard (non AC) front cowl)
Custom printed ducts and manifolds for interior vents - including passenger side window defrost
- grate for kick panel, manifold for bulkhead, 2.5" vent ducts, 1.75" defrost ducts, custom lower dash vent (custom keychain too)
Not 100% sure on the dash remodel...but it works and as its ABS - was relatively easy to work with.
- custom panels for vents to mount on and hide duct work
SaintPanzer
Well-known member
Not really "did to...", but:
Picked it up at the Port of Baltimore today. Ready to start playing games again. Photos to follow.
Picked it up at the Port of Baltimore today. Ready to start playing games again. Photos to follow.
erover82
Well-known member
Did you move or get a new one?