What have you done to your DEFENDER today?

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Has anyone done 300tdi rod bearings? Since my vacuum pump broke about 20 miles into a 40 mile drive, I have no idea how long it ran with low oil pressure. It runs okay now with a new pump, but given the circumstances plus the miles on it (180,000) plus having some bigger trips planned, I’m going to replace the bearings. I picked up a set of NOS genuine ones, and was wondering if there is anything I should be aware of when doing the job?
If you’re going to drop the oil pan and do bearings, it seems prudent to pop the head off, rehone/rering the block and reassemble.
 
Installed more Gwynn Lewis mud guards in the rear fender area. Already have the front ones and front of rear wheel arch set. Also installed removable rear mud flaps and new Bilstein rear shocks. Sadly I replaced the OE shocks less than two hears ago with OE Boge shocks (Genuine LR supplier) and they are shot already 😡.

Shoulda just replaced with genuine instead of OE but the Bilstein‘s have lifetime and genuine only a one year warranty. My original Land Rover shocks lasted 200,000kms. 🤷‍♂️

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Its Maxing the amount of mud that collects behind the rear wheel. Spent tons of time power washing the rear crossmember to last weekend. I’ve got to do the same on the rest if the chassis.
 
Its Maxing the amount of mud that collects behind the rear wheel. Spent tons of time power washing the rear crossmember to last weekend. I’ve got to do the same on the rest if the chassis.
I clean it all out after every off road and as I drive it in winter it’ll keep slush off the cross member and away from the electrical connections.
 

Frenglish

Well-known member
View attachment 30781

Has anyone done 300tdi rod bearings? Since my vacuum pump broke about 20 miles into a 40 mile drive, I have no idea how long it ran with low oil pressure. It runs okay now with a new pump, but given the circumstances plus the miles on it (180,000) plus having some bigger trips planned, I’m going to replace the bearings. I picked up a set of NOS genuine ones, and was wondering if there is anything I should be aware of when doing the job?
Forgive me if there is more to this story than I am aware of, but this pump is not responsible for oil moving about the engine, that is the job of the oil pump which is down in the front cover of the engine by the crank. This little guy only runs accessories like the brake booster.

If you lost this the oil pressure should have been fine, thus no issue or need to do the rod end bearings.
 

Priapus

Active member
Forgive me if there is more to this story than I am aware of, but this pump is not responsible for oil moving about the engine, that is the job of the oil pump which is down in the front cover of the engine by the crank. This little guy only runs accessories like the brake booster.

If you lost this the oil pressure should have been fine, thus no issue or need to do the rod end bearings.
The pump had a piece fall out, engine oil was squirting through it onto the asphalt.
 
How much product did you use? Messy I bet!
I used 3 cans of aerosol in the frame with the long spray tube. It is tough to see so if I had a 4th I would have probably used it.

120-4 500ML Aerosol


For the hard wax I bought 4 and only used 2. I put the can in a warm water bath to ~70F and the product flowed really nice and had ~30" range at 60psi on the compressor. You would definitely use more if it is colder. Not too messy but I did wear a tyvek suit as I didn't have access to a lift and just had my rover up on ramps. I laid plastic under vehicle and didn't hang side curtains of plastic but might the next time. Any overspray comes off easily with mineral spirits and a cotton rag.

120-4 1 Liter

 

Priapus

Active member
I was about to do the front sway bar bushings today on my ship of Theseus 1997 110 CSW, only to realize that there is no front sway bar! There is a rear one, but not even the provisions to mount one in the front. Is this normal? There’s a lot of body roll on this beast.
 

Priapus

Active member
My inexperience as a mechanic shows here. I chanced on a post about bad u joints and the symptoms described sounded just like some issues I’ve been having with noise, vibration and clunking. I had some time during my lunch break today and swapped out the front driveshaft. I’m pretty proud that this only took me 45 minutes start to finish, including having to break out the torch for one stubborn fastener.

Right away there was a noticeable improvement in noise, vibration and clunking. I wish I’d done this sooner. The old shaft wasn’t terrible, but there was definitely some play in both joints.


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New

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