The difference between thermocouple types is the shape of the voltage-temperature curve:
What do you make of this injector?
- Thread starter RBBailey
- Start date
All of the pyrometers I have fitted have been VDO and they all have read accurately up to and above 1300 degree's. Rather than chasing another brand of gauge etc and flushing more cash, why not move to making adjustments ?
What would you suggest?
One thing I did already was to re-bore the bung to get it to reach further. I might be able to do something more drastic by actually drilling a bit wider, then rethreading again since it is a tapered thread.
I might be able to grind down the face a bit to get even further.
But I think I would still be a ways away from the actual stream. What do you do with the probe to get it deep enough?
One thing I did already was to re-bore the bung to get it to reach further. I might be able to do something more drastic by actually drilling a bit wider, then rethreading again since it is a tapered thread.
I might be able to grind down the face a bit to get even further.
But I think I would still be a ways away from the actual stream. What do you do with the probe to get it deep enough?
It will be to short unless you mount it to the manifold instead of the blocking plate.
Did you drill and tap the egr plate or did you utilize the brass shoulder fitting or supplied weld on bung ?
I'm not following why the gauge reading is suspect ?
I'm not following why the gauge reading is suspect ?
I am using the weld on bung as a lot of people seem to be using. But the VDO probe simply does not go in far enough. After rethreding to get more depth, I think I remember that the tip of the probe is still only 3/4 of an inch past the back of the blanking plate. If I remember, this means it is over an inch from the actual stream.
I think my gauge and probe are accurate, just that they are not properly measuring from the right spot.
I think my gauge and probe are accurate, just that they are not properly measuring from the right spot.
Napalm00
Technical Excellence Contributor
Why not just plug that hole and redrill in the center of the manifold branch right before where the turbo exhust I take is .
This is much easier on a 200 Defender engine but you can drill and tap this spot pretty easily and you get a mixed reading from all four cyl.
Or you can do what most people do and just drill any round section of manifold. Frankly either is 100,% fine .
I usually drill the round manifolds on peoples trucks in case there is an issue as it's easier to replace
This is much easier on a 200 Defender engine but you can drill and tap this spot pretty easily and you get a mixed reading from all four cyl.
Or you can do what most people do and just drill any round section of manifold. Frankly either is 100,% fine .
I usually drill the round manifolds on peoples trucks in case there is an issue as it's easier to replace
Attachments
I drill and tap the plate. I guess thats our difference. Places the tip of the probe much deeper in than what you have. Those plates are only $10-15 if your concern is the reading why not buy another and ditch your bung hole
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rocky
NAS-ROW Addict
So I got an email back from Auber about that specific probe. I asked if it might be possible to order a probe with a shorter wire. I did not mention cutting the wire, only that I already have a thermocouple wire in place, and would like to connect directly to that wire with only 10-12" of wire from the probe. He replied: "Yes, you can shorten the probe wire to 10-12". It will not affect the reading."
This is the opposite of what is on their PDF documentation as I quoted above, but at least it would be enough to get the thing returned if it gets messed up by trying to cut and splice.
I'm going to try one more time to modify my current blanking plate, or to use another one as Doug mentioned. But I'll order the longer probe if I have to.
Now... what does this all have to do with the state of my injector? I am not 100% sure, but I think the moisture very well could have come from the act of simply opening up the pipe and return hoses before pulling the ejector. I should have thought about the fact that while dripping a bit of fuel on the head isn't an issue, it could skew the results of trying to inspect the injector.
This is the opposite of what is on their PDF documentation as I quoted above, but at least it would be enough to get the thing returned if it gets messed up by trying to cut and splice.
I'm going to try one more time to modify my current blanking plate, or to use another one as Doug mentioned. But I'll order the longer probe if I have to.
Now... what does this all have to do with the state of my injector? I am not 100% sure, but I think the moisture very well could have come from the act of simply opening up the pipe and return hoses before pulling the ejector. I should have thought about the fact that while dripping a bit of fuel on the head isn't an issue, it could skew the results of trying to inspect the injector.