What do you make of this injector?

[RBBailey]

I did some test runs. I get to 60 in about 18-20 seconds. I could probably break 18 seconds with some practice, but who knows.

When holding 60 on mostly level highway, I am at around 650-750 EGT.

When accelerating from 60 to 70 while on a long, shallow hill, it will get to between 950 and 1000 by the time I reach 70. It likes to cruise at 60, and can hold 60 on most hills. But I have to ask it to go 65, and 70 is only when I really tell it to.

When my foot is to the floor, I will see a constant puff of black smoke, but it doesn't actually leave a trail down the road.

 

[Napalm00]

Get it timed with a dial gauge, up the boost to 16 to start and then start adding fuel.

I do these tunes as a service here in the Bay area. Takes about half day to a day to dial a truck in.

If you are ever down here I can do it for you.

 

[RBBailey]

How do you turn up the fuel when there is a lock collar on the screw?

And you set the pump at the suggested 1.54 or whatever the books says?

I keep going back and forth on the cause of the knock, and I suspect I’ll be going through a lot of cash to get it sorted.

 

[Napalm00]

Cut the collar off , pop off the cap on the top of the pump .

1.54mm lift is stock timing for 200&300 engines , except for EGR 300 .

My suggestion is to set to stock , then do the above . When tuning I set to 1.6 and it gives a slight advance and more performance. Running Advance will also cause higher egts, black smoke, an increased diesel clatter at idle.

it still sounds like you haven't set a Baseline.

You need to get your engine properly timed ( not using the PIN) but with a dial gauge. After this you can begin tuning the fuel.



A further suggestion on the knock , take a low-quality video but high-quality audio clip and post it. Use an external mic if possible ... I remember watching the video that you posted a while back and couldn't hear anything out of the ordinary.


Edit : I forgot to mention that out of all the trucks that I've tuned ~30. I've actually never seen one with a lock collar intact. They're always missing

 

[Red90]

Where is the temperature sensor? If you have black smoke you are not below 1000.

 

[RBBailey]

Where is the temperature sensor? If you have black smoke you are not below 1000.

I get black smoke at any temp, same amount at any temp. It is dependent on how much pedal I?m using.

 

[Red90]

I?m asking where is the EGT probe located? If you have black smoke your full throttle EGTs will be well over 1000 guaranteed.

 

[RBBailey]

Yeah, I was just referring to the fact that I could show 250-450 on the EGT, and I still get a puff of black when I want to. I've seen other EGTs react much quicker than mine, up and down.

There was another thread where this was discussed a while ago. I can't get a longer probe because I already put my dash together. It took me four months, and I don't have the replacement parts for the stuff that will fall apart if I dismantle the dash to get new probe wires to the gauge.

I ordered the standard VDO EGT kit as is listed here and there on the webs, but they must have shortened the probe in that kit, because it does not reach all the way in. I think it should be further in, a few think it doesn't matter, etc...

 

[Napalm00]

I'm going to deduce since you haven't been able to post it, that your EGT probe is in the block off plate pre Turbo on your 300tdi exhaust manifold.

 

[RBBailey]

Yeah, sorry, it’s in the EGR blank.

 

[Napalm00]

Sounds like you think your probe isn't in the exhaust path . Since the probe adapter is pipe thread do you have it fully tapped to the top of your tap ( pipe thread is tapered ) so the adapter can seat further down ? Might get you a few more mm.

Also since the probe attaches to the signal wire only about ten inches up the wire , you wouldn't need to take apart the dash to replace the probe with a longer one.

 

[Viton]

The probe in the blanking plate is the correct place, BUT ....
It needs to be 2.5 or 3 inches long and the threaded fitting needs to be welded in so that the probe is horizontal to the ground that the truck is setting on NOT perpendicular to the plate surface. This will get the probe tip close to being in the center of the exhaust stream.

 

[Viton]

Also, you've made no mention that you have a boost gauge.
You talk "spooling the turbo" but without a PSI reading, that doesn't mean much to the readers here.

 

[RBBailey]

To answer to a few of the last posts. The blanking plate is welded correctly at the angle, and the NPT fitting is threaded down pretty far. I was able to bore out some more threads to get a few more mm this last spring, but If I remember correctly, I'm still an inch away from the stream. The probe that comes with the VDO gauge is simply too short. I might be able to get another blanking plate made that allows the probe to sit further in, but I'm betting the cost would be about the same as a new probe. I'm just unsure if a new probe, with 10 feet of it's own wire, will work properly when attached to the VDO wire -- going off of what the instructions say: "DO NOT CUT THE WIRE."

That said, how do we know that the EGT gauge is showing the correct temps in the first place? I assume they are factory calibrated, but if I put another probe on there, it seems like that is obviously going to throw off the calibration.

This is what I had looked at when discussing this in the previous thread: https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=5_22&products_id=145

I have no boost gauge. At this point, with no observed leaks, and only 5000 miles on it, I assumed the turbo would be producing the stock boost levels.

 

[Napalm00]

With the vdo gauge you bolt the probe to the wire in the first ten inches of the wire. Look at it , it's probably under some heatshribk tubing.

Don't assume anything on boost the wastegate is adjustable so there is no way to know.

For example I set my boost to stockish levels two years ago ~14 psi with a boost gauge temp installed. I just rechecked it when I finally got around to installing the gauge permanently. I was at 8psi ...the actuator had weakened I guess .

Moral of the story: trust nothing. Set your baseline correctly with a working egt and boost gauge and dial timing the engine.

 

[Red90]

That said, how do we know that the EGT gauge is showing the correct temps in the first place? I assume they are factory calibrated, but if I put another probe on there, it seems like that is obviously going to throw off the calibration.

They are thermocouples. There is no calibration. As long as they are the same type, they will be accurate.

You can cut the wire and join them. At worse, it affects the reading by a few degrees. As long as both connections are at the same temperature, there is no error.

My guess is your EGTs are much higher than you think and have been that way for awhile.

 

[RBBailey]

Makes sense that the probe needs no calibration, but certainly the gauge would. Right?


I'll attempt to change it, and will report on what I find. I've also been meaning to get a boost gauge, but I have no place to put it in the cab, so it will have to be temporary till I can figure out a good solution.



School me on how the injector's condition leads to a discussion on EGTs.

 

[Red90]

No the gauge needs no calibration. Any thermocouple gauge will be accurate with any thermocouple of the correct type. No calibration is ever needed.

 

[Red90]

School me on how the injector's condition leads to a discussion on EGTs.

You said you could not get over 1000. That indicates a serious issue.

 

[RBBailey]

Hu. OK. Makes me interested to read how that works.

This K-type?
https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=5_22&products_id=145