Turbo Movement
- Thread starter RBBailey
- Start date
The price at LRDirect is pretty good for a new Garrett. However, if you look at a direct exchange rate (at least using my credit card) it is about $175 cheaper than the final quote in my cart. (Not looking at shipping.) Have any of you been able to buy in GBP but ship to USA?
Ugh... well, I ordered from LRDirect. They got the turbo sent out the next day. But then I figured out that I need more than just the turbo, so I ordered the hoses and gaskets, paid for expedited shipping, and.... they haven't shipped yet. Looks like I might not get the truck done by the end of summer after all. ...again.
By the way, anyone know how to get a hold of Robert Davis?
By the way, anyone know how to get a hold of Robert Davis?
Why don't people say that when I ask what other stuff I need/need to know when getting a new turbo? I didn't know I would need the hoses and gaskets till after I had ordered.
Thanks, I think I need a new one anyway. And it would be a hassle to call it off at this point. I'm just hoping they can get it to me so I don't have to rent a car to get to work. Paid extra $15 to get it quicker, but have not heard anything back.
Based on how it has gone over the past two years, if I don't get this done this week, I won't be driving for another 9 months. Once school starts, I'm pretty much working from 7:00-10:00, breaks for food, of course.
Thanks, I think I need a new one anyway. And it would be a hassle to call it off at this point. I'm just hoping they can get it to me so I don't have to rent a car to get to work. Paid extra $15 to get it quicker, but have not heard anything back.
Based on how it has gone over the past two years, if I don't get this done this week, I won't be driving for another 9 months. Once school starts, I'm pretty much working from 7:00-10:00, breaks for food, of course.
I'll be putting the turbo into the truck tomorrow. Seems straight forward. But thinking through it, I have a few questions:
- When putting the left and right exhaust pipes onto the center section, how do I ensure they don't leak, and that they are straight? I've read that using some of the paste is a good idea, but that doesn't mean the pipe will be straight. I'm assuming getting it as flat to the surface of the gasket on the head will be critical to ensuring that there are no leaks.
- Is there anything I need to be careful of with the new hoses? I'm looking to put them on in exact reverse order from when I took them off, so pipes to block first, then get the turbo in place, then affix pipes to turbo.
Adding to the two questions above:
- How much oil should I put into the turbo before going through the initial start process?
- Before starting, if I crank the engine, should I be able to see oil coming out of the feed pipe? How much would be normal? I want to know that the feed is healthy since I'm putting a new turbo on an old engine.
Napalm00
Technical Excellence Contributor
1: yes your exhaust paste , the tube will square up as you tighten them down.
2: nothing special. Oil.return will be the hardest to put back on . You may need to leave it loose on both ends to get it to line up.
3:. I just injected a syringe worth and spun it.
4: you should be changing the oil when you swap the turbo. You can remove be the wire from the stop solenoid and crank it a few times to prime the engine oilnpump. I wouldn't leave the drain disconnected, have it all bolted up . Crank it ,rewire the fuel stop , start it and let it idle for a few min . That's it
New oil and filter is a requirement
2: nothing special. Oil.return will be the hardest to put back on . You may need to leave it loose on both ends to get it to line up.
3:. I just injected a syringe worth and spun it.
4: you should be changing the oil when you swap the turbo. You can remove be the wire from the stop solenoid and crank it a few times to prime the engine oilnpump. I wouldn't leave the drain disconnected, have it all bolted up . Crank it ,rewire the fuel stop , start it and let it idle for a few min . That's it
New oil and filter is a requirement
Napalm00
Technical Excellence Contributor
Yea dude no worries.
The main two reasons turbo fails is lack of lubrication and lack of air filtration. So if you're using standard oil oil changes every 3 k if using synthetic every 5 or 6. Make sure your air filters in good condition and it should last a long time.
If you really want to be anal about keeping your turbo in good condition. You can install a turbo timer to keep the truck running for a few minutes after you take out the key so the oil doesn't cook off in the turbo.
The main two reasons turbo fails is lack of lubrication and lack of air filtration. So if you're using standard oil oil changes every 3 k if using synthetic every 5 or 6. Make sure your air filters in good condition and it should last a long time.
If you really want to be anal about keeping your turbo in good condition. You can install a turbo timer to keep the truck running for a few minutes after you take out the key so the oil doesn't cook off in the turbo.
Now that's interesting to think about... I wouldn't want to keep the thing running while I walk away on a regular basis, but I live on a hill where there is an 800 foot climb in half a mile to get to my driveway. On a warm day, I will see EGTs go to 800-850, and I will see water temps go from 190 to 195+, just on the last 1/2 mile of my drive to get home. So maybe I should take a minute or two to let the thing idle in my driveway to get the EGTs back down before shutting off?
Napalm00
Technical Excellence Contributor
Told you ,it's a massive fucker. The 200tdi defender version is probably the worst as it uses a flare connection on the bottom drain instead of the two bolt flange.
I use a very stubby adjustable wrench, I bought a standard 6in adjustable and cut the handle down about 1/2 way.
It makes it easier if you very lightly thread in the drain tube on the turbo side, then wrestle it into place from below starting it by hand. Then use the cut down adjustable
https://m.harborfreight.com/6-inch-steel-adjustable-wrench-67149.html
Spend the $4 on this and hack the handle off so you can swing it near the block
I use a very stubby adjustable wrench, I bought a standard 6in adjustable and cut the handle down about 1/2 way.
It makes it easier if you very lightly thread in the drain tube on the turbo side, then wrestle it into place from below starting it by hand. Then use the cut down adjustable
https://m.harborfreight.com/6-inch-steel-adjustable-wrench-67149.html
Spend the $4 on this and hack the handle off so you can swing it near the block
That makes sense, except it is the wrench head that won't fit on it from below (as is the only access point once turbo is in) the handle is not the real problem.
Also, with those two bolts that go into the bottom of the turbo to hold the drain, you have to have them exactly lined up, or it won't even begin to thread.
I used the old turbo to line up the hose so I wouldn't damage the New in case of dropping it. I managed to get the hose in place, tightened it at the block, then loosened the top bolts from the turbo. Now it is in an approximate location and angle. But every time I lower the turbo onto it, it won't line up, or it jams into the corner and won't allow the turbo to fit onto the studs.
Going to bed. My arms hurt after two hours of this. I have a lot to do tomorrow, but this is my priority.
Also, with those two bolts that go into the bottom of the turbo to hold the drain, you have to have them exactly lined up, or it won't even begin to thread.
I used the old turbo to line up the hose so I wouldn't damage the New in case of dropping it. I managed to get the hose in place, tightened it at the block, then loosened the top bolts from the turbo. Now it is in an approximate location and angle. But every time I lower the turbo onto it, it won't line up, or it jams into the corner and won't allow the turbo to fit onto the studs.
Going to bed. My arms hurt after two hours of this. I have a lot to do tomorrow, but this is my priority.