Turbo Movement

[Napalm00]

Have you tried using longer bolts on the turbo side to lease have it connected to the turbo. Then after you have everything lined up tighten them down as far as they'll go leave one in and replace it with the proper size tighten that down then do the other.

It really is the hardest part of doing these turbo Replacements on these trucks. I got two cut up tools to do 200tdi versions.


Final option is to do what im about to on my truck if I can't get this to stop leaking oil. I'll run a an oil drian adapter and make a custom hose with an adapters.

Something like this:
http://www.siliconeintakes.com/braided-stainless-steel-lines/-p-605.html

I feel your pain , I hate this job.

Loosen everything up ,use longer bolts and tighten it only when in place



Edit : forgot ! Last time I did this job the downpipe was removed from the truck . Hence why I could reach the lower oil connection with the cut stubby

 

[RBBailey]

The longer bolts sounds like a good option. I'll see if I can get some tomorrow if the current position of the hose doesn't allow me to fit it again. (I tried three times, repositioned it again, then left everything as is for tomorrow.)

So that flange would go on the turbo side, then you could use a more suitable hose between the that and the block? Sounds like a good option. I was thinking how nice a properly bent and angled hose would actually be.

 

[Napalm00]

Thanks replacement hose would be flexible and cut to length.

Also since this is just a return many oem and aftermarket just use a Barb fitting on both sides and a rubber hose.

 

[RBBailey]

Well... I've had the turbo mounted to the engine four times this morning, only to have to pull it again and again because I can't get that hose in place. The longer bolts don't work because the hose is never closer than 1/2 inch from lining up anyway.

Not sure what to do.

 

[Napalm00]

I pmed you my phone number.

Just to be 100% sure do you have the block connection loose? It's not going to fit if that's been tightened down before the turbo is in place

You can tighten up the block connection after the turbo is mounted if the downpipe (exhaust) is fully removed from the truck

 

[RBBailey]

Thanks. I did get it mostly set in place with both the block and turbo ends connected, however, once it is in place, the hose is bound up enough that you can't tighten it. The flange is not straight, hose bent and twisted, but bound up.

 

[Napalm00]

Maybe a pic would help. Another option would be to take the hose to a hydraulic shop and have them replace the center braided section with hydraulic oil hose. Maybe get it a quarter inch longer this way you have some give room and more flexibility. Wouldn't cost much


When I replaced my oil drain hose in my 200tdi with a brand new one (bearmach) it took me over 2 hours with pry bars to align the hose properly so that it would tighten down. It's since stretched a bit but started to leak at the turbo connection I just had to retighten it down a few days ago

The amount of swearing and cursing to get it in place really had me considering making a custom Hose with an style Fittings. I just rebuild the entire fuel system in my truck using all an fittings and it's so much better

 

[RBBailey]

OK, I think I might have got it. I'm fairly happy with how the two bolts seemed to go in at the turbo, and I think I was able to tighten the nut at the bottom without ruining the hose. Whether there will be leaks or not?........

I ended up pulling all of the studs off the head and suspending the turbo by straps from a scaffold I built out of two ladders across the engine. This allowed the turbo to be in place, but to move as I needed. I scrapped the side pipes, hoping now that I can get them in place with the studs removed, and put the drain tube on the turbo side first, loosely. Then put the nut on at the bottom. Once the tube was finger tight, I put the two studs in on the center exhaust, removed the suspension straps and ladders, then tightened everything down.

I hope it works.

Now I need to see if I can slide the side exhaust tubes in......

 

[Napalm00]

I need to see this !

 

[RBBailey]

You know how it's always the last bolt that gives you the real trouble?

One of the intake bolts just stripped out of the head.

 

[RBBailey]

I've got two problems right now.


Problem: I'm done, everything is hooked up and ready to go. But the last bolt went and stripped out of the head. It's the long intake bolt. I had got the torque up to maybe 20nm when it just came out....

Second problem: I'm supposed to put oil in to prime and lube it before startup, however, it won't take any oil. The instructions say to put it in the port for the oil feed, then hook up the feed line and crank the engine to ensure oil is getting through, then start the engine and run for a few minutes. The oil won't run down into the turbo.

 

[Napalm00]

Stripped intake bolt can be fixed with a helicoil. Don't worry too much about that as it's easily accessible.


When you crank the motor or start it without the turbo hooked up do you get oil coming out of the feed line? The pre lubrication the turbo only requires a small squirt. But the oil feed should have a steady stream of oil coming from it if the engine is running or cranked and fully primed

 

[RBBailey]

Well... I probably shouldn't be starting the engine with only 3 of the four intake bolts tight. I'm going to try to hunt down a helicoil, but I've never used one.

Still hoping for a miracle to get this done before the show and before I have to go back to work. I was one minute from turning the key!

 

[Napalm00]

the intake loose really doesn't matter as truck has absolutely no air metering devices. You're just going to get a little bit of unfiltered air in there.



Napa and AutoZone will both have a helicoil kits in stock. You're probably going to have to remove the intake manifold to be able to access the hole to put the healicoil in. You also need some red Loctite.

I wouldn't even bother with trying to start it at this point. Do the Helacoil fix the hole, squirt some oil into the turbo, Crank it without the fuel stop solenoid wire in place ,then go.

 

[RBBailey]

Well... I borrowed a kit from Ship's in Portland, but I really hope it works, because now the Series is acting up. Died on me four times on the way home. Coughing, losing power when driving. I'm hoping it's just vapor lock in the 90 degree weather, but... Well, I need to get to first day of school on Tuesday morning somehow!

 

[Napalm00]

Just take your time and don't force the tap. It has to go in square.

Use red Loctite on the insert and give it at least an hour to cure before reassembly

 

[RBBailey]

I drove it today. Seems OK.

Question about the stuff we talked about earlier: what EGT temp is OK to shut down so as not to cook the oil in the turbo? Today, I was at 750 as I pulled into my driveway, so I let it cool to 350 before shutoff.

 

[Jeff B]

... so I let it cool to 350 before shutoff.

350 should be good.

I usually shut it down if it's under 400.


.

 

[RBBailey]

Thanks for the help!