Range Rover Classic Frame Swap

waveridin1959

Well-known member
I'm going to pick up a rolling chassis this weekend to begin my Frame Swap on my 95 RRC. Im trying to compile a list of what I need to get before i start the process. I am planning to swap in a LT230 and Remove the ABS. The new chassis should still have the steering box and fuel tank sitting in it with all the lines.

I currently have:
RTE 3" Suspension - Springs/Control Arms/Rear Links/A-Arm Ext, Etc.
Full Set of Orange Poly Bushes.

What I have to purchase:
Body Mount Kit
Engine Mounts
Trans/Tcase Mounts
Front and Rear Drive Shafts
Shocks
Brake Lines

My plan is to clean the new frame up and paint it with tractor enamel and waxoyl the inside. Is there anything you would do while you have everything separated?
 

Roverman2010

Well-known member
You can stick an extra body bushing in all round and get 1" more body lift, bumper lines will be a bit out unless you are changing bumper style?
 

erover82

Well-known member
Which tractor enamel? As for Waxoyl, I'd consider a non-hardening corrosion prevention product like April, Dinitrol, CorrosionX HD.
 

waveridin1959

Well-known member
Whatever is at tractor supply. Buddy of mine uses it on frames and says its pretty tough stuff. I thought about going the Galvy route with the frame, but figured it would be over kill for a truck that wont see much salt.
 

waveridin1959

Well-known member
Picked up the frame over the weekend from Tillery's place. Came out of a GA truck. Im dont see any rust on the surface and everything looks nice and straight. As much a galvy would add to the bling factor, I dont think its necessary for the cost.
 

Attachments

  • FRAME.jpg
    FRAME.jpg
    693.3 KB · Views: 1,024

Uncle Douglas

Well-known member
Callsign: delete
Cost is around $220 for a single chassis. I personally would not do all that work and not install a galvanized chassis. Chassis rust from the inside out so making the decision based on exterior condition ( as so many do) isn't prudent. Salt speeds the process but all you need is dust\ dirt inside the frame. Drive the truck in the rain often, the dust gets washed to a low point, holds the moisture and rust gets rolling. Given the values Classics are bringing, it would be money well spent.
 

waveridin1959

Well-known member
Doug,

I was told there was more cost associated with the galvy. Just sandblasting the frame doesnt take care of the channel and you would need to hot dip it first. If the cost was only $200 it would be a no brainer.

The driving factor comes down to time. I simply dont have time to take a chassis out to Burlington and get it prepped due to family constraints. The wife is giving me a week to get the truck done. Im going to be prepping the chassis at night to have a complete roller by the time I get a chance to attempt the actual swap.
 

Uncle Douglas

Well-known member
Callsign: delete
Brian
We have them blasted to white metal for around $300 and the dip is 200-225 so around $525 before transport expense.
The galv process is the first tank is a heated acid bath which I think is what you are refering to. It removes any rust that might be inside the chassis. The next tank is a heated rinse tank to remove the acid. Next tank is a heated flux tank to aid the zinc adhear to the steel, last is the molten zinc. Turn time drop to pick up is 3 days @ the place outside Richmond. Have 2 or three being done later this month. Shame we missed you on your run to Will's- he's 45mins from us on the other side of the Blue Ridge.
 
Last edited:

waveridin1959

Well-known member
Prior owner did a number on the frame with a wreck. We attempting mounting the RTE bumper to the front it isnt remotely straight. The frame is split behind the front sway mount which is all jacked. The rear end is a twisted too. One trailing arm ear is bent back to. Since I cant leave anything alone and never satisfied im putting a good frame under there. Since the body is nearly rust free and i've put a lot of work into it I want to finish it.

Maybe selling the Defender made me go mad.
 

rlynch356

Well-known member
the frame was F-d up....Anyway, engine, Tranny, LT230 in new frame. the rest is TBD based on Jones schedule
 

waveridin1959

Well-known member
Between the rear being tweaked, the front tweaked, I present the passenger outrigger repair from a previous wreck.
IMG_20200725_141235.jpg
 

waveridin1959

Well-known member
I finally got the Classic road worthy. Getting the interior bits fitted, finding where water is coming in on the passenger side, exhaust, and getting the Front and Rear bumpers on are next. Still waiting on 255s for the Natos.
 

Attachments

  • Range Rover Classic 1.jpg
    Range Rover Classic 1.jpg
    363.8 KB · Views: 478
  • Range Rover Classic 2.jpg
    Range Rover Classic 2.jpg
    375.8 KB · Views: 379
  • Range Rover Classic 3.jpg
    Range Rover Classic 3.jpg
    368.8 KB · Views: 348

cbkearney

New member
Does anyone make a Range Rover classic chassis? I see disco 2’s, defenders and series but no Range Rover. I would imagine there is a market given their value these days.
 

jymmiejamz

Founding Member
Callsign: KN4JHI
Does anyone make a Range Rover classic chassis? I see disco 2’s, defenders and series but no Range Rover. I would imagine there is a market given their value these days.
They don’t seem to rust nearly as badly as D2 and Defender chassis. The D2 chassis is mad from thinner metal
 

Roverman2010

Well-known member
Of the all the RRC's we parted out in the UK to made tray backs (back in the 80's) and the three I have owned over here, I have only seen the goal posts on two that rotted out.
 
Top