PS Leak

pmatusov

Technical Excellence Contributor
Ben, it takes less time to remove the pump.
Piece of cake on the serpentine belt Classic or D1. Let me see if I can reproduce it from memory:

- Loosen the bolts holding the pulley to the pump (10mm hex).
- Remove the serpentine belt (it sometimes makes things easier to remove the clutch and fan) (15mm long box wrench or ratchet to relieve tension on the tensioner).
- Undo high-pressure hose from the steering box and low pressure hose from reservoir (can't remember which - either 9/16 or 5/8 flare nut wrench).
- Remove the pulley.
- The pump is held to its bracket by the front plate (don't remember how many bolts - most should be half-inch or 13mm hex bolts, couple of them -are long going all the way to the head), and back plate (10 mm head bolts - you'll need a socket with extension to get them out).
- Then, the pump is in your hands - clamp it in the vise and unbolt the high-pressure hose.
 

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
Access is limited, but it doesn't explain why I can't get the wrench on the nut. I can get it to the nut, and I have about 90 degrees of swing room from one side, and about 20 degrees from the other. I'm just a doof on this stuff. I'll have to try again.
 

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
I gave up and just pulled the whole pump out and got the hose off on the bench. Much easier.

Now I need to know what to do with the two hose clamps on the reservoir -- just cut them off, I assume?

Cleaning everything up, and putting it all back together once I figure out the right sequence of steps. I'm sure the engine will explode a few miles after this leak is fixed....
 

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
OK........

Now that the pump is back into place, (I fitted it once or twice to make sure the hose was tightened down at the right angle, there isn't a lot of room for error because the tension will keep it from being able to properly fit into the threads at the other end if you don't have it right at the perfect angle. And it is impossible to get tightened once the pump is mounted back to the engine.) I think I see the problem....

As was stated on a few web sites that I looked at, and going back to one of my original questions, the threads on the new pipe are about 1mm too long. They bottom out before you can get the end of the hose to properly seal into the box. At least, this is what it looks like might be happening. Once I lined up the end of the hose with the threads in the box, and got them started, tightening it down seemed to come way too early.

The problem is that the only way to really test this is to put everything back together, and start the truck and move the steering wheel. At this point I expect to see fluid spraying out from the top of the box, even though the hose is tight. This is an OEM part, by the way. I'll report back on whether my fears are realized.
 

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
OK. I managed to get it back together today, and if it is leaking, I can’t tell yet. I feel lucky!

The OEM hose I was worried about seems fine, but who knows yet. The threads were a bit long. The other two are crap. That is, I can’t tell that there is anything particularly wrong with them, but that the shape of the metal tubing, and the length of both were pretty much the wrong shape. I had to cut 5” off the soft line, then 3” off the on from the box to the reservoir. I expect there will be leaks in the near future.... just go ahead and try to find someone who will build one for you. Thats probably what I’ll be doing in the next few weeks.
 
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