PS Leak

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
How difficult is it to change the hose out from the pump to the box?

7A6B5200-233B-4952-B618-195DCC11A771.jpeg
 

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
From what I understand, the new hoses don't fit the original type of pump. So how do I figure out if I have an old style, or new style of pump so that I can order the right hose. ...or have one made, as most people end up doing, because the old style hose cannot be found anymore....
 

Napalm00

Technical Excellence Contributor
It's dead easy. I believe the issue is on the 200 TDI pumps not the 300. In any case careful part selection will get you the correct hose.
 

Napalm00

Technical Excellence Contributor
same thing. its two connections...same on every car ever made with power steering
 

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
Right, but I'm specifically concerned about ordering the part because I'm reading that the new version does not fit the old pump. I'm just wanting to confirm this before ordering, or before trying to find someone to make a hose for me. So I'm wondering how to tell if I have the older style pump. And what others have done to fix the issue.

ANR6656 supposedly does not thread deep enough to seal in older pumps.
 

MountainD

Technical Excellence Contributor
Personally, and I’ve done this on my rrc and D90, take your hose off, take it to a hydraulic hose maker (my local place, Elan Motor in Boulder, was about $60-100 depending on hose) and they reused the ends with new high quality hose and crimps... they matched the length and end orientation (When applicable). I just prefer this as it’s upgraded lines/crimps. I’d definitely make my own if I could get the thread size for braided -AN Lines... dead easy but I’m not sure which ends (haven’t looked into it at all).
 

MountainD

Technical Excellence Contributor
I suppose it may depend on the threaded end--but most are an insert that goes into the hose and then a sleeve on the outside that crimps. I've never seen one different. They asked me for my old one, and that is what they did. Re-sleeved and hosed, same ends.
 

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
I'm trying to remember who it was that told me about the problems they had. But I've seen a few spots online where they discuss the problem by saying that the threads of the male end of hose aren't long enough, so even when it is tightened down, it never actually clamps down on the hose end.
 

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
It's dead easy. I believe the issue is on the 200 TDI pumps not the 300. In any case careful part selection will get you the correct hose.

Can you tell me what tool to use? I'm assuming you have to remove at least one of the other hoses, possibly both, to get to the one I have leaking. But once you get to removing it from the pump, I can't seem to find a tool that clears that space. This is on the '94 RRC though, with the 4.2.

I'll get some pics tomorrow, and hopefully I can get the old hose removed to compare it to the new.
 

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
By the way, the workshop manual just says to remove the pipes, then refit.... I'm just asking if anyone has the procedure a little more detailed so I can save my headache.
 

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
Oops, typo on the year. It is a '95 LWB.

Yes, I can probably find a shop here, but that was part of the original question about the hose itself -- whether to buy off the shelf or special order?

Now I'm curious about the tools needed, since I don't think I have anything that works. It looks like I'll be removing the belt, air filter and intake tubing, and then each of the hoses in turn till I get to the one that is leaking. But I'm unsure if I can reach the fitting under the pump with existing tools. If I can get the dishwasher installed, I may start on this this evening.
 

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
I've been working on this for four hours now, and I can't get the hose off the bottom of the pump. I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong, but it's annoying to be trying to get a wrench to fit on a nut for four hours. I managed to get it to sit proper on the nut once about an hour ago, I pulled on it, and it held the way it should, so I put pressure on it to try to loosen. It might have felt like it started, but then the wrench fell off and I have not been able to get it back onto the nut since then. I can see the nut, there is nothing in the way. I can feel the wrench go on over the pipe, and onto the nut, but it won't sit down on it in a way to grab it. The other end of the pipes all came off without trouble.
 

Z.G

Well-known member
That one is 100% a PITA. It may be worth the additional time of removing everything in front(fan,belt,shroud,radiator) if you really can't get good access to it
 
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