OM606 Revisited for Defender

[NPT90]

So a long, long, time ago I floated the idea of an OM606 into a Defender.

There were some offerings and examples out there but progress on that front had been very slow and there weren't a lot of options or information on the completed swaps.

Happened across some photos of a swap the other day and went back down the rabbit hole.

So here it is:
OM606.962 from a 1997-1999 E300 specifically these models received the OM606.962 Turbo Diesel putting out 177 PS (130 kW; 175 hp), 330 N⋅m (243 lb⋅ft)

The E300 sedans from this generation are pretty common and sell on the low end for $1500 for complete cars. Probably pick one up at auction with relatively low mileage for less than that.

These also came with the pretty ubiquitous (because it was Daimler- Chrysler at this time) 722.6 5 speed Auto that you can still find being using in Chrysler/Jeep cars today.

Now you need to buy:
OM606 Land Rover Engine Mounts ($200 K2 Fab)

Alternator Relocation Bracket (K2 Fab $200)

DLS 1 Standalone controller for OM606 $650 (saves you from swapping to a mechanical IP from an OM603)

For Transmissions you have option 1(722.6 Auto):
722.6 Transmission controller $900 (apparently this has integration to the standalone DSL1 ECU controller via canbus)

722.6 to LT230 T-case adapter by Red Winches $900 (allows 722.6 to mount to the LT-230 without a 'divorced' or a u-jointed prop shaft, eliminated some fabrication

Or option 2 (R380):
Diesel Pump UK R380 to OM606 adapter kit $1500

Presuming Option 2 would allow you to re-use your Transmission crossmember (or relocate it) this would be the most straightforward solution.

Some basic exhaust fabrication ($300), maybe new prop shafts ($800), some fiddling with the LT-230 lock mechanism ($?) and you would be good to go.

Basic figures indicate this swap would cost you:
$3000 for the engine
$1050 for the electronics, and mounts, to get it running in a defender

Option 1 (722.6 Auto) $2000 plus some fabrication to secure the transmission
Option 2 (R380 Manual) $1500

Figure $1K-$3K in various parts (hoses, intercoolers, engine rehab ect) to make it dead nuts reliable.

Really you are talking about a sub $10K engine swap that puts out 175bhp out of the gate with readily available parts worldwide and stateside. Many people tune these past 600HP (though it would shred a R-380 at that point, the 722.6 could handle a much higher output).

Just thought I would put this all together for anyone considering it

 

[NPT90]

Just because

 

[RDavisinVA]

We looked into these years ago and found they would not fit a LHD vehicle.
Has this been overcome?

 

[NPT90]

It looks like you might have the space now but it's hard to say

 

[RDavisinVA]

That is one shoe horned install.
Wonder if these is enough room for an AC condenser?
Guess there would be with the extended breakfast.
Is it just me or does it look like the breakfast in the picture is already been pushed forward about 1/2 inch?

 

[NPT90]

Yeah I would say they could have used the extended nose and probably relocated that intercooler in front of the radiator.

To be fair there are a lot of ways to skin the intercooler cat, if you don't want to go crazy re-inventing the wheel you could probably use some off shelf bits.

https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/11884721_548194348661668_8105172998595065902_o.jpg?_nc_cat=0&oh=5afc37aa55e348aa35b5f8c57776422e&oe=5C36A874

this company f-tune makes an altered intake that moves the intercooler piping to the front of the vehicle. $1000 though

 

[NPT90]

so it appears on a LHD your steering box would foul the AC compressor, meaning you would need to relocate that (probably could use the alternator kit), on a RHD vehicle there seems to be room for the AC compressor but you need to move the alternator:

 

[RDavisinVA]

Another case of making a lot of mods to get something to fit.
On LHD the steering was moved to the outside of the frame rail.

When we spoke to one of the guys in UK, there were clearance issues with the front diff that required a different oil pan as well.

Lining up a serpentine belt when things get re-positioned is a nightmare.
It also appears that the belt does not make enough contact with the AC compressor.
Everything is packed in there making maintenance difficult.
These are reasons why we passed on this conversion.
When we looked at the later Atlas engines (4, 5, & 6 cylinder) they had the same sort of fitting problems.
Is this academics, or are you actually going to do one of these?

We all have our own philosophical approach to conversions.
This is a good example of why we only do bolt in conversions that do not require any vehicle modifications.

 

[NPT90]

Another case of making a lot of mods to get something to fit.
On LHD the steering was moved to the outside of the frame rail.

That's a Gwagen

When we spoke to one of the guys in UK, there were clearance issues with the front diff that required a different oil pan as well.

That nut has been cracked

Lining up a serpentine belt when things get re-positioned is a nightmare.
It also appears that the belt does not make enough contact with the AC compressor.

All photos are of factory AC compressors, they haven't been moved, the diagrams are factory serpentine belt layouts. If they didn't have enough contact from Mercedes they wouldn't have worked from the factory

Everything is packed in there making maintenance difficult.
These are reasons why we passed on this conversion.

I mean, isn't that always the tradeoff for more HP and TQ? You generally can't produce more power from smaller packages.

Is this academics, or are you actually going to do one of these?

We all have our own philosophical approach to conversions.
This is a good example of why we only do bolt in conversions that do not require any vehicle modifications.

Not sure what engine swap besides a Rover TDI or V8 aren't going to require some fabrication (at least not anything worth doing).

Honestly I posed this for the RHD crowd mostly as they are usually the ones with 2.5NAs or 2.5TDs at this point. If I didn't already have a 300TDI under my hood this would be a serious contender as a decent running 300/200TDI is going to cost $10K to install and a cummins 2.8 is surely north of $25K with a lot of custom work.

I think there is plenty of room for a viable conversion especially since it appears there are more adapters available than ever before.

 

[RDavisinVA]

That's a Gwagen

Wasn't refering to the picture, just another post regarding using a P38 steering box on a LHD 110 to clear this engine.

That nut has been cracked

That is really really cool and all factory bolt up.
Very positive.

Not sure what engine swap besides a Rover TDI or V8 aren't going to require some fabrication (at least not anything worth doing).

There's two parts:
fabrication on the engine side
changes that have to be made on the vehicle side

We have been building engine conversions for almost 30 years and each and every conversion we have offered is a direct bolt in bolt out with NO vehicle modifications.
As such all the fabrication work is done on the engine side.
That means you remove the original engine and bolt the new engine conversion in it's place during a weekend.

The other huge factor is accessibility.
You have to be able to get to the components to service them.
Do you know how much room there is in the front of the engine? Isn't it terribly close to the radiator, couldn't tell...

 

[NPT90]

Pretty tight fit it looks like

 

[NPT90]

Looks like they did some fab work on the frame mounts as well. There is an R380 sitting behind it however

 

[Red90]

Just go 6BT and stop screwing around.

 

[NPT90]

talk about fabrication...

 

[RDavisinVA]

Nice work on the alternator mount in the first picture in post 11.
They made at east one custom frame mount, can't see the other.

Is it the picture angle of the second picture in post 11 or is the differential tube altered to shift the front diff carrier away from the engine?
This would explain the front driveshaft angle.

 

[NPT90]

The driveshaft angle is gravity I think

 

[Red90]

talk about fabrication...

No. Super common in the UK with large support for the conversion parts.

 

[RDavisinVA]

Interesting thread.

 

[Napalm00]

Awesome

 

[NPT90]

No. Super common in the UK with large support for the conversion parts.

Cummins 5.9 (6BT)

I mean potato, patato... Minor bulkhead modification, trans tunnel modification, not saying there isn't a little of both with any non standard engine swap just saying it's not a cost savings or anything.

6BT weighs in at 1100 lbs! Most thing I have read suggest you need a 4" lift just to deal with the height of the block. Meaning even a 4BT engine would require significant suspension adjustments to fit.
makes 215 HP and gobs of torque at 440ft/lbs @1600RPMs

2.8L Cummins Specs:
Weight: Approx. 475 lbs, not including emissions equipment
Horsepower: 210 hp @ 3,600 rpm
Torque: 385 lbft @ 1,800 rpm


300TDI comes in at about 440lbs:
Power: 111 hp @ 4,250 rpm
Torque: 195 lbft (264 N⋅m) @ 1,800 rpm

This om606 weights in at 462LBs (nearly identical to a dry 2.8 cummins)
174 hp @4400 rpm
243 lbft @1600 rpm
Most literature I have seen says a mild tune will bring the merc diesel to well over 300HP without sacrificing reliability (though I am sure sacrificing MPG)

Meaning you don't need HD suspension just to support your engine.

Really these are very different beast, merc and 2.8 cummins are high revving small diesels and the 5.9 cummins is a high displacement torque monster. If I were towing all day with the defender the 6BT or 4BT might be worth it (low end torque) but for daily driving an inline high revving diesel is the way to go (personal preference of course).

Only reason I put this together was to illustrate a dealer supported alternative to the 2.8 Cummins (common complaint with defender diesels is finding a mechanic to work on them) that requires minimal fabrication and has a full compliment of conversion parts available.

Personally I will probably see if I can get my hands on a low mileage 606 and start getting it sorted for the next swap. 300HP on a diesel defender sounds pretty good to me. Getting one installed for less than $10K sounds even better!