It's going for turbo and IP tuning on Monday. I will post a video when it's running optimally. I bought an HP tuner to tune the transmission. Will let you know how it all works. Almost all the gauges are hooked up now too.. just need my speedometer and oil pressure hooked up. Even with the fuel mixture out, when it hits a sweet spot it really pulls and that is with the turbo running fully open (basically acting as a hx35) and 12 psi boost... It should be hitting 30 psi.
OM606 Revisited for Defender
- Thread starter NPT90
- Start date
Well it's been a while. Quick summary. Turns out my vnt wasn't properly engaging and the turbo was basically running fully open. Fixed now. Not tuned but I'm getting low down boost.
So I think I figured out the higher rpm issue with it stumbling and creating a Batman style smoke screen behind me. If you noticed a couple of instalments back, the air intake of the turbo was hooked to the preexisting snorkel using a series of silicon hoses. So they were too small... At higher rpm the turbo couldn't pull the air in fast enough creating a vacuum. That vacuum as it became stronger with greater rpm, began to collapse those silicone hoses.
So I think I figured out the higher rpm issue with it stumbling and creating a Batman style smoke screen behind me. If you noticed a couple of instalments back, the air intake of the turbo was hooked to the preexisting snorkel using a series of silicon hoses. So they were too small... At higher rpm the turbo couldn't pull the air in fast enough creating a vacuum. That vacuum as it became stronger with greater rpm, began to collapse those silicone hoses.
So as the hoses collapse even less air entered and we ran into a massive overfueling situation. Since I figured this out, a guy on a UK site was asking help with a similar issue... Same problem and now he's up and running.. I'm glad I'm not alone. So I'm currently in the middle of having a 4" snorkel fabricated. Pics:
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donb
Well-known member
The amount of air these "little" engines need is significant. I don't know if it was me but the CFM amount on air filters is hard to find. For my R2.8, I ended up with a 7.3 PSD filter that is designed for an after market air box (and I'm still not sure if it will give enough air).
My R2.8 has the same configuration as your OM606 (turbo on the RH side with LH drive). Does your snorkel just have the air filter on top or is there another section with filtration? I was going to do the same routing as what you have but hard to find sealed inline air filters.
MountainD
Technical Excellence Contributor
Even with cyclonic snorkels, you always need an air filter (well, need is relative to how much you like your engine in the long term...). Check out Spectre Performance 9032 or 9033 in line air filter elements that are sealed. It is most likely what I will end up with but I am still fiddling with stuff (for my R2.8). I have so much room in front with the short bell housing, I may end up fitting the Cummins AH19490 but it is rather large...
There is an inline filter. We used the one that I had on the other setup.. you can't see it because it's internal between the two small silicone sections. It's a shitty filter but it's good for the flow I need. That prefilter is hard core and is said to remove more than 90% of the participate matter.. the other 10% the spectre replaceable filter can handle.
There is a formula that tells you how much flow your engine requires.. what is the max rpm of the 2.8?
Napalm00
Technical Excellence Contributor
i want that snorkel , im also using 4in intake pipe. but im using the wire reinforced stuff
www.pegasusautoracing.com
when the turbo hits RPM you can really hear it sing
High Temp Silicone 2-ply Air Duct Hose, 450F, Orange Only | Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies
This High Temperature 2-Ply Silicone Air Duct Hose is popular for brake cooling ducts and withstands a higher pressure and vacuum than a Single-Ply Silicone Air Duct Hose does.
when the turbo hits RPM you can really hear it sing
donb
Well-known member
I believe the Cummins literature has the air flow needed for the engine in the install manual (don't know off the top of my head). I felt the air filter companies didn't have clear figures for their products. The Donaldson level stuff did but the setups needed were huge!
This is where I'm at. Some leaks on the turbo oil return line and power steering right now, but running fairly well. My gas pedal is way too light for some reason though....like I could set a small pebble on it and it would drop to the floor. Gotta figure that out. Getting some vibration when the clutch is let out (new LT230 and R380 stumpy from Ashcroft) so guessing the HD bearing is the culprit but not sure. Clutch is now massively hard to press in and feels like most of the grabbing is in the last 20% of the pedal throw.
turbodizzle
Active member
Is there anything special that needs to be done to make the power steering work? I take it the pump from the OM606 works?
turbodizzle
Active member
Do you have any more information on this? I am running into the same issue on my swap.
MountainD
Technical Excellence Contributor
Sexy beast. For the clutch, are you using the stock pedal box? If so, the later style (when was the switch, TD5?) has a lot less throw or LOF makes a cheater spring the really loosens it. For me and my R2.8, and others I know, you can NOT use the later style clutch box AND the spring---too soft and the pedal doesn't come back up! I removed my LOF spring after an hour and went back to the stock spring and it is a good feel. So, if you need the LOF spring, PM me or LOF or switch to the later box.
As for the clutch shudder, mine in my R2.8 did that too. I am a few hundred miles or more into driving it now and it is settling down considerably--but I thought I was going to have to open things up. But somehow it wore in? Not sure, but it feels pretty good now. Just FYI--YMMV...
Not sure how active this thread is anymore, but thought I'd try to pump some life back into it with a couple questions.
- Since I used the K2 cooling pack, it was neccessary to remove the bonnet/hood mechanism that keeps the hood open. Has anyone found a clever way to remount this somewhere else?
- I also note that I have very little resistance in the gas pedal and I don't think the reach of the pedal is utilizing the full powerband (no tachometer yet to verify). Anyone run into this? I did get the throttle cable kit from DPUK.
- Sadly I'm getting some surge/jerk in low gears. The mechanical IP was from Diselmeken and wasnt expecting this. Any simple adjustments that can be made? Or should I look at an anti-jerk kit?
- I'm getting a leak from the steering pump connection line (pic below). Any plug n play solutions for this or do I just need to do some jimmy-rigging?
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turbodizzle
Active member
Can you post a pic of how you connected the cable to the pedal? I have the same problem and am wondering if it’s how I mounted the cable to the pedal.
rocky
NAS-ROW Addict
On the bonnet strut/scissor. Would this help? https://www.sp-4x4.com/product_p/lrc1516.htm
Here some pics (hard to get a pic at that angle and had to play with the contrast a bit so you could actually see it). Honestly don't think it has to do with the cable/pedal connection - Fairly positive it has to do with the throttle spring and may need a different/custom cam (much like on carbureted engines). Gonna dive deeper on this in a couple weeks when I have the time. You'll note I havent trimmed the excess wire...waiting until I have answers before I do.
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That could work!