LR3 Must Do's

J

Jburt

Well-known member
I wanted to post something to get this section rolling, and I know there are some things that should be done ASAP on LR3s. Off the top of my head I can think of:

Plastic Tee in the breather hose from the thermostat. I swapped mine to a homemade brass widget.

Front differential breather tube. Instead of cutting mine off like most folks, I just poked a hole in it.

Anything else out there I'm missing for easy and necessary to start for a new truck?
 
Ray_G

Ray_G

Well-known member
Al Blue4.6l said:
You lost me here.
Click to expand...

There is a plastic breather in the coolant system that is notorious for cracking and spitting coolant all over, usually on the trail or the highway. As a preventative measure it is best to just replace it with a 3/8" brass barbed fitting like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CEQRG...lid=1OFTQGPJSYC4V&coliid=I39PWNYUT6JX9G&psc=1

Other key things to do with the LR3/LR4 include clearing the sunroof drains and checking the lower windshield cowling, which will often warp over time-both lead to water ingress. Most often on the passenger side floorboard which will then pool water in the channel on the right side of the truck where this is a wiring harness that has connections that corrode. Good times.

Having a spare brake switch and brake light bulbs on hand is a good idea since that will make life painful at some point too.

GAP IID tool is a great investment for any RRS/LR3/LR4 owner.
r-
Ray
 
Ray_G

Ray_G

Well-known member
Rear door can be an issue, as can the EPB.

Other things to check on in the near term is the dif fluids, transfer case fluid, and changing the transmission filter/pan/fluid.

For most of these trucks that are hitting ~100k many will encounter compressor rebuild/replace/upgrade time. To a degree EAS blocks, struts, etc all start needing to be replaced too.

I may do a version of my impressions of switching to coils as a seperate thread just for vis.
r-
Ray
 
Al Blue4.6l

Al Blue4.6l

Well-known member
I actually have a compressor refresh kit and front valve block waiting to go in this weekend (at 129k). Thanks for the info re: coolant line - ordered the part to install this weekend as well. I did the front air springs at around 100k - it was definitely time.

I also agree re: transmission fluid/etc change at around 100k.
 
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stu454

stu454

Well-known member
Callsign: KN4CBB
This isn't necessarily specific to the LR3, but I have to say that using a hub-puller saves a lot of hammering and cussing.

And if the hub nut has never been off, it may be torqued to 250 ft/lbs. Per several dealer techs, the new torque specification is 170 ft/lbs. And don't forget to use a new nut. The Beck-Arnley number is 103-0502 and I found mine (overpriced but available local and same-day) at Advance Auto. These take a 36mm deep socket while the originals on my '07 needed a 32mm.
 
D

down_shift

Member
Change the f/r diff fluid every 35k regardless of the 100k/70k service intervals.
When swapping out the front lower control arms at ~ 65k, replace the wheel bearings while you are in there, as those go just a few k later.
The Cooper A/T3 is a kickass tire for the LR3.
 
jymmiejamz

jymmiejamz

Founding Member
Callsign: KN4JHI
I rule of thumb for maintenance on Land Rovers is to cut the factory service intervals in half. I've had good success with this. My mom has had her RR from 15k miles and now has 120k. I think she has only had an o2 sensor and a radiator fail.

I'm 100% sure, but I think the diffs that have the issues have a 14mm hex key for the drain plug and the newer style has a 3/8" square.
 
Al Blue4.6l

Al Blue4.6l

Well-known member
Thanks for the tip re: plastic valve replacement. I did it this morning - the old one came apart immediately when I attempted to pull it out.

Yesterday I freshened up the compressor and put in a new front valve block. The compressor had been refreshed at some point previously - the air dryer beads weren't in awful shape and it had fairly new o-rings all around. That said - whoever did it hadn't put the plastic spacer sleeve back around one of the springs, so I was glad to be able to fix that.

I did the front air springs about a year ago and that improved the overnight drop significantly... but it was starting to get bad again (~1"+ overnight). After installing the new front valve block yesterday it didn't sink at all overnight.
 
hillstrubl

hillstrubl

Founding Member
to add to the list:
-Check function of spare tire winch, clean/grease as necessary
-Check passenger side door sill (under the carpet) for standing water (or wet carpet) - if so, drill a tiny hole (short term) find leak and fix (long term, sunroof drains and/or windshield cowl). Often the passenger side sunroof drain tube (terminates behind the side air intake) corrodes and "falls" into the body draining onto the fusebox + floor. Causes all sorts issues from:
  • Suspension failure errors (drops to bumpstops)
  • Cruise Control Not available errors
  • SPECIAL PROGRAMS OFF error
  • HDC FAULT SYSTEM NOT AVAILABLE error
  • SYSTEM FAULT SPECIAL PROGRAMS NOT AVAILABLE error
  • Keyless Entry not functioning
-Brake light switch (buy one for a 2009 Ford Focus and save yourself ~$30 for the exact same part)
-Thermostat housing - another common issue due to brittle plastic, if not leaking you're good, but higher mileage ones will begin to weep coolant, not a huge deal until you're able to replace, not a terrible job either
 
stu454

stu454

Well-known member
Callsign: KN4CBB
I finally found the ZF manual for the transmission. The transmission fluid filling procedure is outlined with German precision on pages 5 and 6
here.
 
stu454

stu454

Well-known member
Callsign: KN4CBB
sherpamike said:
Good call with this one. What's your method to properly grease this thing? Mine (LR4) doesn't like to go up or down very well without lots of persuasion.
Click to expand...

I removed the spare to gain access and then squirted everything I could reach with Ballistol. It worked well enough this past weekend when I had a flat.
 
R

rovingryan

Member
Ray_G said:
There is a plastic breather in the coolant system that is notorious for cracking and spitting coolant all over, usually on the trail or the highway. As a preventative measure it is best to just replace it with a 3/8" brass barbed fitting like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CEQRG...lid=1OFTQGPJSYC4V&coliid=I39PWNYUT6JX9G&psc=1

r-
Ray
Click to expand...

I finally got around to checking this on my FFRR. This breather is located in a different location and is much larger. Does anyone know if it is still an issue on this model?
 
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