How fast, really,

Napalm00

Technical Excellence Contributor
You just made the pump and belt holes line up. I think you understand that such a small difference in alignment of the pump can cause such a distinct change in engine reliability and performance.

Since the belt and the timing holes are all relative to how the belt was put on and the stretch of the belt.

So the absolutely verify your timing you put a gauge on the back of the pump to verify that the alignment of the belt is actually the correct pump lift. If the belt is stretched it may cause a difference in the timing from the relative pin location and case marks inside the timing cover.

Best case scenario you're right on the money. But to do it correctly you have to measure the pump lift with a dial gauge because of the variables in the belt drive.

Frankly most people just skip this step. But seeing how in-tune you are with your vehicle you're going to want to do it correctly and then you can start messing around with the fueling.


Fueling tuning is a whole nother can of worms.
 

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
OK, makes sense. I'm not seeing all the angles at once yet. But this confirms one thing: I don't have time to do this! Dangit!



I'd love to be able to do this myself, but I had to move my schedule around for several days just to get the time to put into the research and work on this little project to turn the pump a fraction of a millimeter. So.... I'll see if I can now leave work early to get this thing to the shop.


I have learned a lot though. I'll have the time to DIY once my kids are out of high school.
 

broncoduecer

Technical Excellence Contributor
You're pretty close to there now, so if you have a couple free hours over the weekend you'll have it. I found that you only need to remove the top 2 injector lines to get the dial gauge in. In theory it should only take 30 min (some people could say 15 if you've done it a bunch). So don't give up, you're almost there and you'll really appreciate knowing yourself that it is done right. It really is as easy as the trail fitter videos show.
 

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
I believe you, and I'm going to order the tools and such. But really, I'm behind on work, putting other things off, and I even missed my kids' track meet and riding show this last week; all the while, I have a mechanic I could just pay to do the work. I'm too slow at this stuff, and have too little time to block-out to keep the learning/doing linear.
 

aeo

Well-known member
I wanted to piggy back on this. I have similar issues- smoke, significance loss of power at cold start. Clears in 1/4 mile. Struggles to get to 65 on a flat road.

I just had the IP rebuilt, timing belt replaced. Had the fuel lines blown out, drained the sedimenter, changed the fuel filter. Still there.

Compression test- 29 bar at all cylinders, 12 psi for fuel. It’s getting fuel. Temps are all normal, has boost.

Current theory is valve seals. Thoughts?
 

Red90

Well-known member
Timing is off as mentioned above. Valve seals do not leak oil out. They leak gas in. Both the intake and exhaust are under pressure.
 

Dan kemper

Founding Member
Callsign: KK6ECF
Are thes symptoms new after rebuilt ip and timing belt? If so chances are your timing belt is off.

I wanted to piggy back on this. I have similar issues- smoke, significance loss of power at cold start. Clears in 1/4 mile. Struggles to get to 65 on a flat road.

I just had the IP rebuilt, timing belt replaced. Had the fuel lines blown out, drained the sedimenter, changed the fuel filter. Still there.

Compression test- 29 bar at all cylinders, 12 psi for fuel. It?s getting fuel. Temps are all normal, has boost.

Current theory is valve seals. Thoughts?
 

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
Aeo,

The work I did on bumping the timing on the pump forward did fix the smoke. There is a bit of white on initial start/idle when stone cold, but the moment the engine is under any load, the smoke clears. And except for the noise I posted about on the other thread, the engine is running smoother, and therefore, at least feels a bit more powerful.
 

aeo

Well-known member
Are thes symptoms new after rebuilt ip and timing belt? If so chances are your timing belt is off.

Loss of power isn't. There is a saga about my adjusting timing and making a mess of it. Then having the IP rebuilt- it was leaking diesel- and also having the timing belt done at the same time.

But - there was some smoke with the original loss of power before all this. I know the timing is retarded- it's supposed to be set to factory settings. I just want to make sure she's not hiding something else in addition.

Two years ago she ran AMAZING. We did a 5k road trip with her. Something changed the last 500 miles of the trip and now she's not happy.
 

Dan kemper

Founding Member
Callsign: KK6ECF
Ha. My 7 dollar IP pump gasket attempt turned into a full IP rebuild at blue ridge diesel and having to dive in to do the timing. Expensive lesson but gained a ton of info!
 

jymmiejamz

Founding Member
Callsign: KN4JHI
Timing is off as mentioned above. Valve seals do not leak oil out. They leak gas in. Both the intake and exhaust are under pressure.

Maybe its different on a diesel, but on a petrol engine valve seals will definitely leak oil in. In my experience you get smoke on deceleration.
 

Red90

Well-known member
Gasoline engines have intakes that run at high vacuum when the throttle is closed and so oil can get sucked in.

A diesel intake is at no pressure or positive pressure. The crankcase pressure is the same or lower. The exhaust is always at a higher pressure than the crankcase due to the turbine back pressure.
 

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
I actually noticed this about an hour ago when I checked for blow by at the oil cap. I have some. Not.... a lot.... but enough to see coming out. But there was considerably less when the engine was revved.
 

nas90tdi

Well-known member
I was thinking the same. If you are talking about that little puff of haze, you have no smoking issue.
 

Napalm00

Technical Excellence Contributor
If you hold up a mirror small piece of glass to the exhaust while the smoke is coming out....and if it gets water droplets on it , then it is coolant or condensation in the system.

I don't think it's that, it just looks like normal unburned diesel on a cold startup. Perfectly normal and I would ignore it
 
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