How fast, really,

R

Red90

Well-known member
Take a picture. The belt can be a tooth off putting you at the limit of the slots in the pulley. It is another common install error. You need to choose the tooth that puts you in the middle of the slot travel or there is no room for adjustment.

As Doug mentioned, it could not hurt to pull the timing cover and make sure the camshaft was timed correctly. When that is off you get a dog of an engine.
 
RBBailey

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
I think I get what you are saying, but the thing won't rotate either direction. If it is at the end of the slot... oh...... wait...... picture coming.
 
RBBailey

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
Took this pic once I had TDC and the pin lined up, the bolts had not been loosened yet. By the way, when I did loosen them, I needed a full 16 inch bar to get them loose, they were very tight. I'm looking up the proper torque for them now.
 

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RBBailey

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
OK, so I double checked to make sure the bolts were actually loose, and decided to give it some real heft with a standard socket wrench (6"). So it did finally move, clockwise. But... it's as if it is spring loaded, there is some good amount of torque on that nut pulling it back anti-clockwise. And it does not move at all in the anti-clockwise direction, from the centered point.


So... I could hold the 22mm nut over to the right, back into center, then retighten the lock bolts with the 9mm pin in place, but this seems like I'm just locking it down and ignoring what looks like another problem.


LOL! This is why I'm so touchy about asking again and again for clarification on things before I start a project. I've never started a Rover project that didn't have something like this make what everyone else can do in 10 minutes, take me 24 hours.
 
RBBailey

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
OK... so it must have just been really stuck with those bolts too tight. And they really were far past their normal torque.

So the thing that is confusing me is that when I see people do this in videos, it isn't spring loaded. And there is no movement in the counterclockwise direction. I'm not sure if I'm reading this all wrong, but one of you stated that the pump could be turned 360 degrees, while another indicated that it would stop at the ends of the adjustment slots. I was surprised by the force it took to get it to turn, and it snaps back into full retarded position.

Bottom line is this: I rotated it to dead center, this puts it just a hair advanced of where it was. I held it in place with one hand, then tightened the lock bolts with the other. When I started the engine, everything seemed fine, so I took it for a test drive.

In the dark, I could see that I still have white smoke. I'll get a video tomorrow.

And with my rear facing light on, I can see that there may be more smoke on acceleration, but I can't tell if it is white or black. The light may be fooling me, so I'll have to wait till daylight. I'd guess that there is a bit more than usual.

Driving felt fine. It might have actually been slightly better performance. That is to say that it seemed to go from 2200 to 2800 RPM fairly quickly, compared to before. It isn't any miracle, and I'll have to wait for daylight to make a better judgement, but it felt "better".

If anyone could chime in on what they think was going on with the pump being so hard to turn, I'd like to address that. But for now it will at least get me where I want to go.
 
Napalm00

Napalm00

Technical Excellence Contributor
It definitely is spring loaded. When you get your gauge timing done I guess post up the results. 1.54 is the stock lift 1.6 is slightly agressive.
 
RBBailey

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
OK! Good to know. I just wasn’t expecting that. And I suppose it was just plan stuck at first.

Now that I can see that the slot is lined up dead center, I feel like I should drive it a bit and see what the results are.

Any link to Amazon for the dial gauge?
 
RBBailey

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
Update:

As last night, everything seems normal on start and drive this morning.

It "seems" as if it may have more power, I'm pretty sure it pops up from that 2200-2800 rpm range a bit quicker than it used to. I'm shifting faster. As I said, it isn't a miracle cure, I'm not suddenly driving a muscle car or anything. It just feels a little more normal. I'll get it out on the highway this afternoon, and see what it's like in the 65-70 range.

The real difference is this: No more white smoke. There was a tiny bit right at start, as I was backing out, and driving 50 feet or so to the end of the driveway. But I really saw nothing at all as I went down the hill, and even in the regular spots where the position of the pedal/rpms/speed would usually produce a big puff. If I wanted to, I could usually really lay a smoke screen down the 1/2 mile hill out of the 'hood, but I just let it coast. This morning, I could not reproduce the smoke, even if I tried.

I'm going to drive it like this for a few days, top it off, and see what the MPG, make sure it isn't some fluke with the smoke, and get some high speed testing in. But so far, all seems good, and even to have turned out how I'd hoped it would.

Thanks!
 
RBBailey

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
Update:

  1. For sure have cut out the white smoke. There was a tiny bit at idle on start, and if I gave it a bit of gas in the first 30 seconds while sitting there. But as soon as I backed out and drove forward in first gear, it went away, and I could not make it smoke.
  2. Performance does seem just a bit better than before, but only in the sweet spot between 2200 and 2800 RPM. So getting to 60 seems a bit easier. BUT! Going from 65 to 70 didn't seem any easier at all, it still runs out of power at about 2900-3000 RPM, and that is where I am at anything over 65.
  3. There is virtually no smoke while driving. Even on sharp acceleration, it is only a slight black puff, but it goes away once the turbo catches up. This is a change. I used to be able to see the initial puff, and while holding acceleration, or while at speed going up a hill, I used to be able to just barely see black smoke. Now it is virtually nothing.
  4. The EGTs are lower. I have not driven much yet, but I've gone up my hill twice, and I know exactly where the EGTs should be at the top, and they are 100-150 degrees lower than they always have been.
  5. The one negative thing I've noticed is that it seems louder at idle. More diesel noise/clack/whatever. It does not seem "bad", just louder. When driving 60-65, it is actually very smooth and, I'm pretty sure there is less engine noise than before.
I think I am just barely knowledgeable enough to have a guess at what is going on with the black smoke, the EGTs, and running out of power at 3000 RPM, but I'd like to hear what you gurus have to say.
 
Napalm00

Napalm00

Technical Excellence Contributor
You are probably slightly too advanced now if you can hear diesel knock at idle and still under fueled.
 
RBBailey

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
I seem to be catching on. This is what I was thinking as well.

I don't intend to tweak the fuel till I get the pump timing just right.
 
RBBailey

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
235/85 with 1.4 TC.

OK, so I backed it off just a bit. Its no dial gauge, but with the right lighting, and a macro lens, I can see when the two sides of the slot are dead-center, lined up with the peg hole in the pump body. The results seem to be just right. Not like some kind of miracle, but the truck has never been smoother, quieter, or more ready to power up a hill. Amazing what a fraction of a millimeter can do.

However... I'll have to start another thread for what is cropping up now.

In the mean time, can someone tell me about adjusting the fueling screw? It is the flat-head next to the solenoid terminal on the back of the pump, right? I expect to loosen the nut. Do I hold the screw in place as the nut loosens around it, then turn the screw in, then tighten while holding the screw? What should I expect for that red collar between the screw and the nut?

Yellow = screw
Blue arrow = locking collar
Red = ?
 

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Napalm00

Napalm00

Technical Excellence Contributor
I'm telling you man you are going about this backwards. You need to verify that the timing is before you touch fuel. Without this baseline and an egt gauge you are flying blind.

Doing it by ear is fine but to do it right you need to verify. It literally can be the difference between a well running engine and a blown up one.

Just want you to be safe and get what you want
 
RBBailey

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
I'm stupid about this, so I thought I had verified the timing when the pump lined up with the flywheel when the engine was at TDC. In my mind, it was verified as being timed up, but was slightly retarded in the fine tuning at the pump.
 
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