Early 110 swivel ball seal
- Thread starter chris snell
- Start date
The one-shots are not expensive if your seals work properly. I see 90W and grease as alternatives to get you home if a serious leak develops on the trail.
The nice thing about using 90W is that if you break a CV it is easy to clean the housing.
nas90tdi
Well-known member
It will also show you a leak earlier. If oil can come out,shit can go in.
I know a lot of people run grease, and I am not opposed to it in principle on a standard CV. Ours just take a lot of abuse and any part running in an oil bath is going to last longer then one dependent on grease alone.
My biggest issue with it really doesn't apply to Chris because he keeps his truck up. But ,so many times I have gotten a new truck and pulled out a complete piece of shit CV with hard grease in the swivel ball and the LR service tag in the radiator support from the grease campaign. That is really what made me be against it so much on the Rovers.
I know a lot of people run grease, and I am not opposed to it in principle on a standard CV. Ours just take a lot of abuse and any part running in an oil bath is going to last longer then one dependent on grease alone.
My biggest issue with it really doesn't apply to Chris because he keeps his truck up. But ,so many times I have gotten a new truck and pulled out a complete piece of shit CV with hard grease in the swivel ball and the LR service tag in the radiator support from the grease campaign. That is really what made me be against it so much on the Rovers.
jafir
Founding Member
That's what I use too. One quart is about the same volume as 2.5 one-shots. And it only costs about $5.
So, Zack sent me a pair of the early RRC seals, P/N 571890. These are definitely not the right seals for a Defender swivel. The inner and outer diameters are the same but they are several millimeters deeper and don't fit.
However, I looked more closely at the original seal that was on the truck and got the part number: FTC3401. Some catalogs show this part superceding to LR059968, however, this is not correct! The LR059968 has much shorter lips and won't provide enough sealing against the early style swivel ball. If you put the LR059968 on an earlier swivel like the one I have, your swivel grease will immediately drain out.
If you come across this thread, the part you need is the real deal original FTC3401, not any successors.
Here are some photos comparing the two.
Side-by-side, the two seals look the same:
Here is the old-style FTC3401. It has longer lips than the newer style:
This is the new "equivalent" LR059968. This does not work on the early-style swivels because the lips are not long enough:
However, I looked more closely at the original seal that was on the truck and got the part number: FTC3401. Some catalogs show this part superceding to LR059968, however, this is not correct! The LR059968 has much shorter lips and won't provide enough sealing against the early style swivel ball. If you put the LR059968 on an earlier swivel like the one I have, your swivel grease will immediately drain out.
If you come across this thread, the part you need is the real deal original FTC3401, not any successors.
Here are some photos comparing the two.
Side-by-side, the two seals look the same:
Here is the old-style FTC3401. It has longer lips than the newer style:
This is the new "equivalent" LR059968. This does not work on the early-style swivels because the lips are not long enough:
Curious Chris. Whats the plan. Change to newer style swivel?
Nah, keeping these swivels. The seal cracked before the trip and was leaking slowly. I'm just swapping in a new seal. Would have had it done weeks ago if not for the difference between these supposedly identical seals.
If that's the case and somebody has it, post away! I didn't consider that possibility.
jafir
Founding Member
I found a TSB, but it looks like it's talking about the hub seal, not the swivel seal. I cannot upload it here, because it's too big.
https://discoweb.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=56443&d=1497315655
https://discoweb.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=56443&d=1497315655
Flipping the swivel seal doesn't make sense. Crap would accumulate in the lip.
Time to renew my swivel ball seals and re-opening this thread. Has anybody ran into issues with grease leaking around the newer LR059968 swivel ball seals? As I recall, the lip was too thin and did not make a good seal around my (Genuine) swivel balls.
I would just order the FTC3401's but they are getting really hard to find. Wondering what my other options are. I guess I could try to find a complete front axle off a later Disco or Defender, but I don't know what year this might have changed.
Anybody know?
I would just order the FTC3401's but they are getting really hard to find. Wondering what my other options are. I guess I could try to find a complete front axle off a later Disco or Defender, but I don't know what year this might have changed.
Anybody know?
MountainD
Technical Excellence Contributor
I’m running corteco seals. I try and run them as my only seals when given the choice. They are the thick ones on my ...balls.
Here is an example. I don't recall where I got mine, but if you run into difficulty finding them, I can certainly look at my receipts but it will take a bit. BTW---CORTECO SEALS rock. particularly for axles, but I will try and cross to them for every seal I do. Sort of like only running genuine for my windscreen and alpine windows... only thing I use now.
Here is an example. I don't recall where I got mine, but if you run into difficulty finding them, I can certainly look at my receipts but it will take a bit. BTW---CORTECO SEALS rock. particularly for axles, but I will try and cross to them for every seal I do. Sort of like only running genuine for my windscreen and alpine windows... only thing I use now.
The last Genuine swivel ball seal kit I bought had Corteco seals in it.
I do use the Corteco. I was just trying to figure out why the wide lip seals worked and the thin ones did not.
But things took a strange turn when I pulled apart the swivel balls last night. I had a wide lipped seal on one side and the skinny lip seal on the other. Now I'm wondering if the difference in the seals matters or if there was some installation error that caused one of mine to drain out all of the grease when I installed the newer narrow lip ones last time around
But things took a strange turn when I pulled apart the swivel balls last night. I had a wide lipped seal on one side and the skinny lip seal on the other. Now I'm wondering if the difference in the seals matters or if there was some installation error that caused one of mine to drain out all of the grease when I installed the newer narrow lip ones last time around
DefendersNW
Well-known member
Still running the early swivel setup with the double plates and gasket on both?
Yes, still running early outers. No reason to change them out until the seals go completely NLA.