Discovery 200tdi into Defender

[donb]

As some of you may know I'm currently have an OM617 in my 110 ST. It's been good but as of late the leaks have been killing me and I was on a search for more power via IP and bigger turbo. My main problem is I just want to drive the 110 and feel like the OM617 needs more work than I want to do right now.

At one point I was thinking a Cummins R2.8 but with no bolt-in setup available I didn't want to cut up my low use galvanized frame to make it work. And to be honest I'm tired of custom making parts to make things work.

So I bought a Discovery 200tdi which as many know isn't a straight bolt in for a Defender anyway. But there is plenty of information out there for it. After receiving the engine I did a compression test with a kit from Harbor Freight. All cyclinders were over 400psi. After a couple fuel lines hooked up with an in-line filter I got it to run easily for a few seconds.

My prep plan is:
- Clean up
- install new rear main seal
- install Alisport 300tdi VVT turbo along with the 300tdi exhaust pieces and 300tdi intake
- change timing belt and pulleys
- new 130 clutch
- Glencoyne motor mounts

I have an R380 behind the Mercedes engine now. And a 200tdi radiator, intercooler and framework so I'm hoping things will be straight forward.

I'll be posting pics as I work on stuff to document it and hopefully help people out and ask for help as I hit certain issues.

 

[donb]

I few picture of the engine.

- The 300tdi turbo is partially installed.
- I cleaned, wire brushed, primer and painted some of the block Ford grey.
- Rear adapter was cleaned and a new rear main seal installed.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[JPaulin]

Awesome work as always Don! Hope you can make it to VOR!

 

[RDavisinVA]

You'll need to get a 300TDI dipstick assembly and merge it with your 200TDI dipstick.
Did John contact you?
He plans to deliver the valve cover you bought from us.
Surprised you didn't want to go with the 292.
John drove ours.

 

[Napalm00]

Don do you know the age of the T-seals in the truck? I know you just put on the rear clutch housing but they caused me so many issues over the years.

on the 200 they are only accessible with the engine removed from the truck as you need to remove the oilpan, ladder frame and the rear main bearing.

Id also suggest using a Dowty genuine rear main seal, they are no longer available as a single part number.. the 200tdi part number for the rear main now crosses to a aftermarket quality but OEM branded seal.

You can get the true genuine dowty seal by ordering a 2.5na lower gasket set that is NOS from turner in the UK....they will probably tell you the same thing.

The Tseals themselves are either cork or a granular black rubber material. The black rubber seems to hold up better, the last set I installed was also coated in great stuff black.

 

[captbenji]

The 200tdi from a disco is basically a direct swap other than the exhaust down pipe. That also assume you are bolting to a lt77, which they usually went to. The 300tdi was the r380 so you?re going to have fun fabricating a couple things. Why not just find a 300tdi?


?89 110 200tdi
?95 RRC LWB

?If it?s gonna happen, it?s gonna happen out there! - Cap?n Ron

 

[donb]

Awesome work as always Don! Hope you can make it to VOR!

Me too! If I can get my ass in gear over the next few weeks I'll get it done and go to VOR. I'd like to get some 4 wheeling in!

 

[donb]

You'll need to get a 300TDI dipstick assembly and merge it with your 200TDI dipstick.
Did John contact you?
He plans to deliver the valve cover you bought from us.
Surprised you didn't want to go with the 292.
John drove ours.

Thanks - I have a 300tdi dipstick assembly on order.



Working with John - maybe meet up today for the cover.


292 sounds interesting but I want diesel and I want to drive this 110 at VOR in a few weeks. I know people shit on the 200tdi but I also feel like a lot of capable people run them and like them. I know it's not without faults but it should be ok. I may rebuild the OM617 and chase down bigger HP with the IP and turbo so that could always end back into the 110. Or a R2.8 once I see one in action in person.

 

[donb]

Don do you know the age of the T-seals in the truck? I know you just put on the rear clutch housing but they caused me so many issues over the years.

on the 200 they are only accessible with the engine removed from the truck as you need to remove the oilpan, ladder frame and the rear main bearing.

Id also suggest using a Dowty genuine rear main seal, they are no longer available as a single part number.. the 200tdi part number for the rear main now crosses to a aftermarket quality but OEM branded seal.

You can get the true genuine dowty seal by ordering a 2.5na lower gasket set that is NOS from turner in the UK....they will probably tell you the same thing.

The Tseals themselves are either cork or a granular black rubber material. The black rubber seems to hold up better, the last set I installed was also coated in great stuff black.

Thanks Matt - this is one of the reasons I started this thread. Great information to know! I installed a rear main seal from Rovers North.


With the new information you said I'll order those parts and if I can get them in time and I have the time before VOR I'll install. One of the reasons I'm pulling the OM617 is the leaks it has so it would suck to be leaking a bunch on the 200tdi when I could have fixed it. But as always I'm fighting time issues and I move slow, haha!


What T-Seals are better? Cork or Granular Black Rubber? Or does it matter?

 

[donb]

The 200tdi from a disco is basically a direct swap other than the exhaust down pipe. That also assume you are bolting to a lt77, which they usually went to. The 300tdi was the r380 so you?re going to have fun fabricating a couple things. Why not just find a 300tdi?


?89 110 200tdi
?95 RRC LWB

?If it?s gonna happen, it?s gonna happen out there! - Cap?n Ron

I'm running a stubby R380. I was thinking of getting a 300tdi and using the modified mount for the right side to fit into a 2.5/200tdi frame but this engine was a lot cheaper.


Also one of the reasons for the 300tdi turbo was exhaust routing. I think it will be really straight forward.

 

[Napalm00]

Thanks Matt - this is one of the reasons I started this thread. Great information to know! I installed a rear main seal from Rovers North.


With the new information you said I'll order those parts and if I can get them in time and I have the time before VOR I'll install. One of the reasons I'm pulling the OM617 is the leaks it has so it would suck to be leaking a bunch on the 200tdi when I could have fixed it. But as always I'm fighting time issues and I move slow, haha!


What T-Seals are better? Cork or Granular Black Rubber? Or does it matter?

I prefer the granular rubber ones with a smear of black right stuff. I also suggest coating the back of the huge paper block gasket with right stuff where the seams for the rear main area d the tseals protrude. It will have a silicone ring printed in the area.

When Installing the tseals cut them about 1-1.5 mm proud of the base of the engine so they are compressed by the ladderframe when it is installed.

Great threads on this tseals specifically



Edit : I'd suggest tossing the rear main that you already installed. When you get the new rear main and you do the t seals you get all the parts from Turner. When you install the rear main seal make sure that the crank and he's completely dry and clean with no lips or ridges . I usually clean it up with red Scotch-Brite and brake cleaner.

When installing the rear main seal, place it into the clutch housing first and fully seat it. Some people use red Loctite around the edge of the seal, so that it doesn't spin in the case or leak. I also will get some long bolts and cut the heads off. I then use these as pins for alignment for the clutch housing , block gasket and rear main . So when you seat it it seats perfectly flat and true.

 

[steinhnj]

Don, do you have a RHD or LHD truck?

 

[donb]

Don, do you have a RHD or LHD truck?

LHD

 

[donb]

I prefer the granular rubber ones with a smear of black right stuff. I also suggest coating the back of the huge paper block gasket with right stuff where the seams for the rear main area d the tseals protrude. It will have a silicone ring printed in the area.

When Installing the tseals cut them about 1-1.5 mm proud of the base of the engine so they are compressed by the ladderframe when it is installed.

Great threads on this tseals specifically



Edit : I'd suggest tossing the rear main that you already installed. When you get the new rear main and you do the t seals you get all the parts from Turner. When you install the rear main seal make sure that the crank and he's completely dry and clean with no lips or ridges . I usually clean it up with red Scotch-Brite and brake cleaner.

When installing the rear main seal, place it into the clutch housing first and fully seat it. Some people use red Loctite around the edge of the seal, so that it doesn't spin in the case or leak. I also will get some long bolts and cut the heads off. I then use these as pins for alignment for the clutch housing , block gasket and rear main . So when you seat it it seats perfectly flat and true.

Great tips - thanks! I'll document with some pics when I get to this stage to add a visual to the process.

 

[Napalm00]

One last one. The rear main seal is the exact same diameter as a 4in PVC pipe cap , great for driving it in evenly

 

[steinhnj]

I put a Disco 200Tdi into a LHD Tithonus. I used a TD5 steering shaft and clocked the turbo. The Glencoyne website was helpful. I also modified the alternator bracket to allow it to rotate as far up and out of the way as possible for the turbo intake hose.

Disregard, just saw you're using a 300Tdi intake which will eliminate the lower turbo problem.

 

[donb]

I put a Disco 200Tdi into a LHD Tithonus. I used a TD5 steering shaft and clocked the turbo. The Glencoyne website was helpful. I also modified the alternator bracket to allow it to rotate as far up and out of the way as possible for the turbo intake hose.

Disregard, just saw you're using a 300Tdi intake which will eliminate the lower turbo problem.

Here is the Glencoyne site that you mentioned and agree it is helpful: http://www.glencoyne.co.uk/tdiguide.htm


Good information on the Td5 shaft and clocking the turbo. I'd like to make this a repository of information for a 200tdi Disco to Defender as there was bits and pieces out there but nothing with it all save for the Glencoyne site.

 

[donb]

One last one. The rear main seal is the exact same diameter as a 4in PVC pipe cap , great for driving it in evenly

That is a really good tip. The other one I tapped with a piece of 2x4 and it wasn't that elegant of an install.


Another question: Should I install the rear main seal into the aluminum plate first then install onto the engine? Or install the plate first and then the seal? From what I've read do not touch the seal, keep both the crank and seal dry and the plastic shipping piece can be used as a guide to install.


BTW - placed the order for the Dowty seal and some other items from Turner. Shipping wasn't cheap but hopefully they will send it quickly.



Here is the link to the seal: https://www.turnerengineering.co.uk/err-2532-rear-oil-seal-c2x20823028

 

[Napalm00]

Yes.

Install seal into clutch housing . Use red locktite on edge of seal. Cut heads off random m10 bolts and use them as guides to install the clutch housing , main and block gasket square.

Baste block gasket with great stuff as noted in previous post . Use plastic crank tool to protect seal when Installing ( it's an Install sleeve not a shipping thing)

As you tighten down the clutch housing the plastic tool will push through the crank seal and pop out

The reason I mentioned to get the seal from the kit instead is because it's cheaper and comes with the t seals

 

[Napalm00]

https://www.turnerengineering.co.uk/Mobile/stc-1560-gasket-set-bottom-25d-c2x21998401