Detailing a Defender

@evilfij it really didn't take that much time, 5 min per light/fixture/grille or so.. except for the one with a spinning rivnut and broken off head..ha 🤨

It was the tape that I wasn't gonna do but knowing how the eyebrows can blemish, didn't want years of pink smudge. But even that didn't really add much time within the big picture.
 
Looks great! May want to tape any edges where the side of the buffer pad may touch. Very easy to burn through paint in an instant. Sometimes the buffer gets thrown too, like when a wire wheel catches a corner. Done it too many times.
 
So I figured I'd try some trim renewer. I was a little hesitant as I was never a fan of shiny black trim but will say it did level down as you can see in the eyebrow pics. Those mirrors were bone dry.

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3m med cut buffing compound, 3m polish and carnuba wax. Paint is original as far as I can tell on my 83
Beautiful truck...that came out great.

Today I wanted some instant gratification. Took bonnet off and completed a few more steps after the cut with a polish and then a wax. I've only used foam pads. There are still some scratches that possibly a wool or micro fiber pad could attack but I was able to get those stubborn water stains out and I'm good with that. Who's sick of seeing Portifino Red?😛

Here's the bonnet before/after and one from this past wknd.

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It's come a long way. Getting the bonnet off really helps with access to those hard to buff areas around it too. Portofino is growing on me, and this thread is accelerating it.
 

travisch

New member
Be careful but if you want to really get it cleaned up and shining use a 3000 grit 3M pad on an orbital polisher. I follow that with Wizards final Cut and Wizards Shine Master. Its tough to cut through paint with 3000 grit but since you have no idea how thick the factory paint is or how many times its been cut/buffed you need to pay attention and go slow.
 
Be careful but if you want to really get it cleaned up and shining use a 3000 grit 3M pad on an orbital polisher. I follow that with Wizards final Cut and Wizards Shine Master. Its tough to cut through paint with 3000 grit but since you have no idea how thick the factory paint is or how many times its been cut/buffed you need to pay attention and go slow.
Key question for me with an older Rover is how shiny do I really want it? No doubt a personal preference yet it is a Rover that is supposed to be taken off road, get dirty, and possibly stuck. Yes, I keep up with mine yet they’re not show cars or garage queens.
 
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